WORDS & PICTURES: Hannah Foster-Roe

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Regardless of whether you usually subscribe to Valentine’s Day or not, chances are your plans for the 14th February this year won’t (or can’t!) involve much more than a night on the sofa in your jim-jams with some sort of soothing beverage on standby. But let’s fast-forward to a time when dining out, theatre trips, live music, crowded bars and city breaks are beautiful possibilities again; when we can carry our little travel-starved hearts across borders, towards new adventures.

Living through lockdown has forced all of us to get comfortable with our own company, but trying to hold ourselves together on a daily basis doesn’t exactly constitute self-love or self-care. So why not make your first post-pandemic escape a solo one? Show yourself the oodles of appreciation you deserve with an indulgent getaway to one of these stunning cities, where you can explore on your own terms and tune in to fresh surroundings with our European solo travel guide…

LONDON, ENGLAND

Amidst the chaos and bright-red buses of the UK capital are little pockets of loveliness to be found. Start in the southeast corner of the city, slowly strolling through Greenwich Park until you find the best view in London from the top of Observatory Hill. Jump on the Docklands Light Railway (DLR) from Cutty Sark to Bank, landing in Instagrammer’s paradise – with the Sky Garden, Leadenhall Market, and St. Dunstan in the East all just a short walk away. Cross over London Bridge to grab an afternoon nibble at Borough Market, then follow the River Thames along Bankside and the Southbank past the likes of Shakespeare’s Globe, St. Paul’s Cathedral and the Tate Modern Gallery. Head into the West End for an evening’s entertainment, grabbing dinner at Ember Yard, Duck and Rice or Social Eating House before ending with a show in lively Soho.

VIENNA, AUSTRIA

Vienna may have provided the love-story setting for Before Sunrise – one of the greatest travel films ever made – but the only holiday romance you need in order to enjoy this stylish city is with yourself! Spend a few hours at Schönbrunn Palace, a former residence of the infamous Habsburg dynasty with grand architecture and gardens that encapsulate imperial majesty. Then recharge in a cosy café and treat your tastebuds to some signature Viennese delights, namely sumptuous Sachertorte: chocolate cake layered with apricot jam and smothered in rich ganache. The city also has a whole area dedicated to museums, so make a beeline for the Museums Quartier to get your art history fix. After dark, consider a swanky wine-bar crawl, some self-guided wurst tasting or perhaps a concert if that’s your vibe.

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BUDAPEST, HUNGARY

Budapest may have gained a reputation as one of Europe’s wildest party capitals, but to only discuss it through this lens would be to undermine its cultural complexity. A past marred by war remains tangible, with the Shoes on the Danube memorial haunting the embankment outside Hungarian Parliament. This is something best observed on one’s own, as it can render you quite speechless. Across the water, flock to the Fisherman’s Bastion of Buda Castle, a handsome lookout tower with dreamy views over Pest.

The idyll of Margaret Island offers an up-river reprieve from rowdy crowds, but no visit to this city would be complete without delving into the scruffy bars and outdoor clubs that fulfil Budapest’s hedonistic image. Ultimately though, you’re in the city of spas, so submerge yourself in thermal pools and steaming saunas – typically believed to be a universal tonic for any ailment, including fuzzy heads from the night before!

ROME, ITALY

Walking through the streets and piazzas of Rome is like falling through time itself. From the flaking plasterwork and tattered balconies to the pillars of the Pantheon, everything feels inherently sacred. Combine your trip with a day in the world’s smallest country, Vatican City, before a sunset saunter along the banks of the Tiber; watching the day fade across the Castel Sant’Angelo as you go.

The next morning, wake with the sun and snap those Trevi Fountain shots whilst it’s barely light. Then take to the Colosseum, the Forum and Palatine Hill – the holy trinity of Ancient Rome – before exploring Trastevere, a neighbourhood loved for its vibrant colours and atmosphere. Don’t forget to channel your inner Elizabeth Gilbert in Eat, Pray, Love by dining at a trattoria with the sauciest bowl of pasta you can find! La dolce vita is yours for the taking.

LYON, FRANCE

Often overlooked in favour of twinkling Paris to the north and peaceful Provence to the south, understated Lyon deserves far more attention than it gets. Bringing together fairytale charm and sleek sophistication, the city oozes intrigue. Kickstart your date within the labyrinths of Vieux Lyon – the Old Town, where traboules (secret passageways) and shadowy courtyards wait to be discovered. From here, hop on the funicular to Fourvière: home to a magnificent Basilica and Roman ruins.

Retrace the origins of the region’s silk trade in the trendy Croix-Rousse neighbourhood, before pitching up at a Bouchon Lyonnais for a taste of traditional cuisine. Every December, Lyon is transformed by the Festival of Lights, making it even more picture-perfect than usual. 

COPENHAGEN, DENMARK

Whilst I’ve travelled to every city in this list, I can especially attest to the self-dating experience in Copenhagen – as I spent four days in 2017 doing it myself! Fill up on a generous brunch at Europa1989 before setting off for the Nørrebro district, either on-foot or – like a true Copenhagener – by bicycle. Mooch around Torvehallerne Market, hit the innovative boutiques or pay your respects to Hans Christian Andersen at Assistens Cemetery. Then to Nyhavn, possibly the world’s most picturesque harbour, after breaking for a breather in the pretty grounds of Rosenborg Castle. Ascend the Rundetaarn or the Christiansborg Taarnet for 360-degree aspects of the city, particularly impressive at sundown. Come night-time, spend it in the company of sizzling street food at Reffen, or try out one of the many hipster hangouts in Vesterbro.

Read our Copenhagen City Guide

BERLIN, GERMANY

Berlin is very much a tale of two cities: there are parts which command your energy and which command your stillness. Begin quietly with visits to some of the city’s more thought-provoking monuments, such as the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe and the East Side Gallery, where a stretch of the remaining Wall has been transformed with graphic paintings along with messages of defiance and resilience. Go to the Reichstag, and catch the lift up to its viewing dome to see Berlin from a different perspective. And if you wish to go higher, the TV Turm has a revolving restaurant – over 600ft in the air! Weather-permitting, venture out to the lakes of Wannsee for a flicker of natural calm, to help detox after the bierkellers and cabarets of Kreuzberg have taken their toll.

EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND

Moody Edinburgh is another ideal destination for a meet-cute with yourself, thanks to the rustic charisma of its Old Town and Regency glamour of the New. Traipse to the top of Arthur’s Seat, an extinct volcano offering scenic cityscapes and a front-row seat for sunrise, or take a less challenging meander through Princes Street Gardens. Pound the higgledy-piggledy Royal Mile towards Edinburgh Castle; the seat of Mary Stuart’s turbulent reign and a hallmark of Scottish heritage. Explore the historic features of Calton Hill or, if the rain works against you, take shelter inside the National Museum of Scotland.

August is Festival Fringe season, when the city comes alive with theatre, spectacle and late-night fun – but those seeking a quieter life can find it in the quaint nearby villages of Stockbridge and Leith, also famed for their gastronomic credentials.

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LISBON, PORTUGAL

Subtitled as ‘The City of Seven Hills’, Lisbon is tough on the legs but easy on the eye! With a kaleidoscopic palette of yellow, terracotta and blue, it’s no wonder we need miradouros (panoramic viewpoints) just to take it all in. Climb aboard Tram 28 from Bairro Alto to Alfama, which also doubles as an unofficial sightseeing tour. Disembark at the last stop and prepare to flex those calves en-route to the Moorish fortress of São Jorge, where a family of peacocks has taken custody.

Refuel at Time Out Lisboa on typical Portuguese dishes like bacalhau (dried salt-cod) and pastéis de nata (unctuous custard tarts). Or, for something special, sample the modern petiscos (small plates) in the Taberna at Bairro do Avillez. If you can squeeze it in, take a day trip to magical Sintra or coastal Cascais. But be back in time to witness an evening of fado: the UNESCO-recognised music of Portugal.

AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS

The cool and quirky Dutch capital is always a common contender for a long weekend away, and lends itself particularly well to a solo sojourn. Navigate Amsterdam’s trademark network of canals and terraced avenues, passing by floating flower markets, sweet Stroopwafel stands, creative cafés and designer labels. Lose yourself in the attractive Jordaan, or observe the comings and goings in Vondelpark prior to an afternoon in your museum of choice. Mine was the Van Gogh Museum, but the Rijksmuseum and MOCO are also popular crowd-pleasers.

After nightfall, take a boat cruise to see the city at its fairy-lit best and then eat your own bodyweight at the Foodhallen; packed to the rafters with everything from dim-sum to dirty burgers. Tables are a hot-ticket here, so be prepared to buddy up with a group of strangers or risk an awkward clash of elbows!

BRUSSELS, BELGIUM

With the exception of Paris, there is no city break easier to coordinate from the UK than Brussels. Eurostar services depart from London St. Pancras regularly, delivering you into Bruxelles-Midi in less than 2 hours. When you arrive, tracking down some Belgian beer and sugary waffles should be the top priorities: check out Moeder Lambic for the former and Maison Dandoy for the latter!

Swing by the Grand-Place, the city’s central square trimmed on all sides with gorgeous buildings, and stop for a browse in the marble arcades of Galeries Royale Saint-Hubert. Brussels characterfully blends the classical with the contemporary, with a flamboyant collage of street art and elaborate structures like the Atomium, so be sure to engage with both faces of this lesser-explored capital.

LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA

And finally, for those who want their city breaks with a side-order of organic beauty, Ljubljana is your one. Its petite size and sustainability manifesto make it appear more utopian than its busier, bigger sisters on the continent – and the change is most welcome. The pastel lanes of the pedestrianised centre still boast their fair share of buzzy bars, taverns and tourist attractions – with dragons and hilltop castles being notable draws.

The air is so clean here that you could forget you’re in a capital city at all, and the local covered market only sells produce from within a “kilometre-zero” range, which pushes those green principles even further. If that’s not enough to make you feel close to nature, then opt for a day at Triglav National Park – just 45 minutes away by road. Row on the crystalline lakes of Bled and Bohinj, or hike to higher ground for glimpses of the snow-capped Julian Alps.