WORDS & PICTURES: Kirstie Will
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Sometimes I wonder why Brussels isn’t celebrated more as a capital city. It’s even often forgotten compared to some of its other Belgian neighbours, like Bruges. What people don’t often see is that exploring Brussels has a unique attraction – its streets. Rarely can one discover so much about a city’s identity just from the cobbled streets and brick walls. You don’t need museums or tour guides. Simply take a stroll and uncover a city filled with architecture that co-exists but still finds its own voice, and a culture celebrated so strongly that it’s emblazoned on every street corner in the form of comic history, traditional street food and unique buildings.
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ECLECTIC ARCHITECTURE
Brussels’ co-existence of architectural styles tells a tale of its history. It houses all the typical – but no less incredible – historic styles of neoclassical and gothic architecture, but also exhibits movement through time with the emergence of revival style, and most prominently in Brussels, the Art Nouveau architecture that sets it apart from most other cities.
In the south-east of the capital lies the dominant edifice that is the Royal Palace. The neoclassical structure has exactly the kind of Gallic and Austrian Dutch influences that you would expect from a country sandwiched between the two. This style, based on simplicity and symmetry, can be identified by plain walls, columns and simple geometric shapes. As with most of the eclectic mix of styles, neoclassical architecture can be seen around the city. Head towards the centre and you’ll quickly stumble upon Place Royal, and the Church of Saint-Jacques-sur-Coudenberg. The whole square is filled with neoclassical architecture and the church is definitely the most exquisite of them all.
It’s no secret that the main event in Brussels is the Town Hall in Grand Place. An exquisite example of gothic architecture, the style of the Town Hall is like something out of a fairytale, with its intricate detail and sweeping archways directly contrasting the minimalist neoclassical buildings that sit so close by. The cobblestones, and those all-too-recognisable Flemish renaissance revival terraces that surround the rest of the square, add to the charm. Don’t leave Grand Place without finding the Everard ‘T Serclaes statue. If you rub it, you’ll be sure to come back to the city.
Through a maze of picturesque streets that wind into modern plazas, you’ll be struck by the magnificence of the Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula, generally considered one of the finest pieces of Brabantine Gothic architecture. Akin to other celebrated works such as the Notre-Dame de Paris and Westminster Abbey, the Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula perhaps flies under the radar, but that shouldn’t discredit its importance in the city of Brussels and its dominance over it.
Even under the gothic umbrella, examples of Gothic Revival architecture can be seen, like my favourite building in the city, La Pharmacie Anglaise. This style came to be prevalent in the 19th century to, as the name may suggest, revive medieval, gothic buildings.
The most exciting and unique of the architectural styles to begin exploring in Brussels is Art Nouveau. Victor Horta was pioneer of the style in the late 1800s, leading to the recognition of Brussels as a centre of Art Nouveau, even today. Victor Horta’s houses are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and although the interior design does play a large part, it’s the facades that are the most captivating, like the Les Hiboux house, the Musical Instruments Museum, and the Saint-Cyr House.
COMICAL MURALS
Given that architecture holds such an important role in Brussels’ identity, it’s fascinating to see cultural elements spill onto the streets among the buildings. Comic art is widely celebrated in Belgium, and probably the most important cultural aspect associated with the city of Brussels. Artists such as Hergé paved the way for a unique Belgian style, separate from previous French influences that dominated so many parts of Belgian history. Even the most famous of characters, such as Tintin and The Smurfs, had humble beginnings in weekly instalments in Belgian children’s magazines. Nowadays, they are some of the most recognised comic characters in the world and their creators have truly cemented Belgium’s place in artistic history. The streets of Brussels are filled with murals celebrating countless fantastic characters and the artists that created them. The fact that there are more than 50 murals on the official Brussels Comic Book Route is a true testament to just how many iconic characters have come out of Belgium.
Explore the full Brussels comic book route with Kirstie here
Starting in the heart of the city and taking you through several of Brussels’ neighbourhoods, the Comic Book Route does more than just brighten up the walls. As you walk from mural to mural, you truly discover the city as the Belgians see it, learning about the comic characters they grew up with and still know and love, and getting lost in inconspicuous corners of the city that would otherwise lie undiscovered by tourists. This is the true essence of exploring Brussels.
In Marollen, Leonard the inventor paints the Palais de Justice which you can actually see down the street from the mural. Froud et Strouf and their friends fill in the boarded-up windows of a building in Stalingrad to create a wonderful optical illusion. Of course, the star of the show, Tintin, can be found on an adventure right in the centre of the city. Each mural has its own history and creative flair, the characters themselves exploring Brussels alongside you.
GASTRONOMY ON THE GO
I couldn’t even begin to discuss the best things about Brussels without savouring the delectable food options. Street food is enjoyed in countless countries around the world, and Brussels is no exception. The fries stands and waffle stalls sink into the wonderful facades and street corners, as much a part of the city as the bricks that form the famed architectural styles. On the contrary, the innumerable bars spill out into the street, as if drinking beer is so ingrained in the Belgian culture that it couldn’t be enjoyed anywhere but on the cobbles.
Few other places could give you such a unique culinary experience for as little as one euro. It might not be anything fancy, but these traditional recipes have been passed down through families, and each cornet of fries from Café Georgette, or freshly cooked waffle from Maison Dandoy is a piece of Belgium’s unique history to be discovered and loved for years to come. A cone of delicious, crispy fries to-go is essential when exploring Brussels, giving you the energy to truly appreciate all that this city has to offer.