WORDS & PICTURES: Hayley Hoggarth
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Denmark is known for being one of the happiest places in the world, for being home to the creator of Lego and is the epitome of Scandi-cool. It’s also famed for being wonderfully cosy, or ‘hygge’: a term coined by the Danes for that feeling of well-being and warm togetherness, and this can be felt whilst strolling down the old narrow, cobbled streets of the Danish capital.
These streets invite you on intimate walks next to an abundance of colourful houses, small coffee shops and vintage boutiques. Copenhagen boasts a population of over 600,000 inhabitants and since the creation of the Øresund Bridge in 2000, which connects the Danish capital to the Swedish town of Malmö, it has become the centre of a large metropolitan area spanning both nations. It is home to an eclectic mixture of urban 21st-century living with traditional Nordic architecture.
This wonderful mix of design can be seen all across the city centre, most notably whilst strolling along the waters edge. Lying to the north east of the city, the port of Copenhagen is alive with activity, with tourists in their plenty crowded onto canal boats for a tour of the city’s waterfront sights. It is along the port and its harbour that some of the contemporary changes to the city’s skyline can be found. Jutting out on the island of Holmen sits the futuristic designed Opera House. Designed by Henning Larsen, it is one of the most modern opera houses in the world, and also one of the most expensive to be built. Across the water you can find the Little Mermaid Statue, known locally as the Den Lille Havfrue, sitting on her rock by the waterside. Based on the Hans Christian Anderson fairytale, the statue was made by Edvard Eriksen and erected in 1913.
Hidden just out of sight, behind the mass of crowds at the statue, is the Kastellet, one of northern Europe’s most well-preserved fortresses. It is constructed in the form of a pentagon with bastions at its corners. In the middle stands the Citadel Church and rows of striking red buildings, used by the Ministry of Defence today. Heading further towards the centre of the city sits the stunning Amalienborg Palace, which has been the home of the Danish royal family since the late 18th Century. The palace aligns perfectly with that of the Opera House, across the water, thus beautifully encapsulating the charming mix of old meets new.
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ECO-FRIENDLY CITY
An impressive feat of engineering can also be spotted from Copenhagen’s harbour, and it would be remiss to not mention it. Copenhill, or Amager Bakke, is located to the east of the city centre in Amager and is a waste-to-energy plant. The plant was opened in 2017 and cleanly burns the entire population of the city’s waste every year. It cleverly converts waste into energy, providing heat and electricity for 150,000 homes in Copenhagen, making it extremely energy efficient and just one of the ways helping Copenhagen in its bid to be carbon neutral by 2025. It also doubles as a sports activity centre, where you can enjoy rock climbing and dry-slope skiing, all whilst taking in the spectacular view over the city.
Dubbed the city’s most popular and colourful street, the Nyhavn Canal runs off the main harbour and lies in the centre of the city, where there is a hub of activity. Originally a busy commercial port, and once home to Danish fairytale writer, Hans Christian Anderson, the Nyhavn canal is today filled with people enjoying the relaxed atmosphere and sampling delicious food in one of the colourful restaurants. Dine at Nyhavn Færgekro for a traditional delicacy of raw red herring, prepared 5 different ways and all equally delicious. Spend a cosy evening at Nyhavn 17, the bright yellow restaurant on the corner of Lille Strandstræde, and enjoy the tastiest steak and chips I have ever eaten. Sitting at the top of the Nyhavn Canal is also the Amber Museum, home to an intimate journey through the history of Amber mining in Denmark. The museum itself spans two floors and sits above an amber jewellery shop and is also one of the oldest buildings in Copenhagen.
DANISH ROYALTY
Denmark has the third oldest monarchy in the world, and Copenhagen has been the seat of the Danish Crown since 1416, meaning the city comes with an abundance of beautiful, royal buildings spread around the centre and its surroundings. The Royal family currently reside at the beautiful Amalienborg Palace, which consists of four identical classical facades around an octagonal courtyard. Heading west from the palace you will find the stunning and stately Rosenborg Slot, which used to be home to the royal family before they moved. Situated in gorgeous formal gardens, the castle is home to the magnificent crown jewels which draw your eye instantly. Among other attractions on display are the coronation chair and throne, and a collection of regal silver furniture which can be found in the Long Hall.
Back in the centre of the city stands the formidable Christiansborg Palace, sitting proudly on its own islet of Slotsholmen. Marbled stairways lead you up to gold gilded rooms once used by Danish royalty, and now owned and used by the Danish government. It has a tumultuous past, having tragically caught fire twice and needed to be rebuilt on both occasions. Tickets can be bought giving you access into the palace, royal kitchens and the ruins of an old castle that sits underneath, and this is highly recommended.
The historic centre of the city, Indre By, or the Inner City, is home to many of Copenhagen’s most popular tourist hot spots. It is also where you can stroll along one of Europe’s longest and oldest shopping streets: the Strøget. Walk down its cobbled paths and you’ll find an array of local shops, restaurants and cafés, with the delicious smells of traditional Smørrebrød and pastries luring you in for a lunchtime treat. An array of vibrant squares can also be visited whilst strolling down the Strøget; Rådhuspladsen is bound to the west and is next to the stunning building that houses Copenhagen’s City Council, and Kongens Nytorv, a large square with access to a Metro station, lies to the east. Intertwining streets veer off from the long stretch of shops and present a collection of historic sights to be seen.
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Closely knit to each other stand Copenhagen University, a dramatic grey-stoned 15th-century building with tall sash windows, Copenhagen Cathedral with its smooth terracotta walls and beautiful domed nave, and the Rundetårn, or Round Tower, built as an astronomical observatory tower in the 17th Century. The tower was built in such a way that means there are no stairs to climb, rather a gradual slope to the top. This is because Christian IV, the king of Denmark, wanted to be able to ride his horse to the summit. Wonderful views from atop the tower can be seen; coloured houses line the streets, terracotta tiled roofs can be seen in every direction and an array of regal church spires nestle in between.
Arguably the most unique district of Copenhagen is Freetown Christiania, where you can feel the vibe shift as soon as you walk under the carved wooden sign. The town is a former military barracks that was broken into by hippies in the 1970s, who started squatting there. It is now home to over 900 residents, has its own rules and regulations completely independent of the Danish government, and was once notorious for its open cannabis trade that lasted close to 50 years. Christiania isn’t just a town; it’s a way of life, and this is evident as you wander its streets. Pop into the music venue, Loppen, in the daytime and peruse a collection of talented local artwork, then grab yourself a refreshment in the adjoining café. Nearby the Freetown is also the beautiful Church of our Saviour with its instantly recognisable ‘corkscrew’ spire standing out for all to see.
DISCOVER COPENHAGEN
The National Museum of Denmark is situated in the centre of the city, just across the canal from the Christiansborg Palace. The 18th-century former mansion is home to some fantastic collections and facts about what makes Denmark the country it is today. There are sections dedicated to the reindeer-hunters of the Ice Age, religious art from the Middle Ages and of course, a major exhibit on the Vikings. A favourite of mine was a collection contributed by its own residents; 30 objects that tell of dramatic and turbulent events and new trends in the Danish lifestyle since the year 2000.
