WORDS & PICTURES: Helen Clara
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Let me lead you to a secret paradise that lies in the northern part of Germany. I call this place a paradise because it is definitely somewhere you can completely rest for a moment, recharge from your life’s daily dose of hustle and bustle. Langeneß is pure, almost hidden from the rest of the world, yet is challenged daily by climate change. It is everything but the stereotypes and labels that most probably cross your mind when you hear about Germany.
When I first set foot on the island of Langeneß, Germany, I was welcomed by scenery that I have never experienced before. I was picked up by a small, handmade wooden train, or so-called lorry, which fit only four people. During the trip, I saw how untouched the nature in Langeneß is. It is a home to thousands of bird species, from swallows to oystercatchers, which migrate and breed through the seasons. It is a place where you will meet the happiest sheep and cows in the world; they free to roam across vast fields, with unlimited access to food. You will be struck by the greenery and pure nature as far as your eyes can see.
Langeneß, Germany, is the perfect weekend getaway from Hamburg: one of the biggest cities in the north of the country. From here, it only takes only two hours by train and another 30 minutes with the lorry. With just 100 inhabitants in an area of 11.5 square kilometres, serenity is a luxury that only Langeneß can offer. Growing up as a city girl, I felt as if I were being taken to another part of the world there, where life is simple, honest, and far-removed from the image of how ‘’an ideal life’’ should be.
Life on Langeneß starts in the early morning, even before the sun rises, where some of the locals work out in the water to catch fish and oysters; the day ends when the sun sets. At night, you will see nothing but the lights from the houses and hear nothing but the breezing wind or drizzling rain. I stayed the night at Hus Nuke, where Anja and Swen, the couple that runs the inn, are just the loveliest people on Earth. I felt instantly at home! The aspect that I particularly love about this guesthouse is that it is perched right beside the water, where you can swim or even go mudwalking, depending on the water level. During low tides, you can mudwalk to another hallig nearby.
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Unlike any normal island, Langeneß is considered as a hallig, taken from the German word itself, which is translated as a small island without a protective coastline. It means that Langeneß will possibly face the threat of being non-existent in the future, as a result of the rising water levels around its coast. Because of this, the island is already flooded from time to time. However, aside from the threat of being a hallig, Langeneß, Germany, has its perks, too. The island’s peculiar high and low tide cycles are caused by the moon’s gravitation, making mudwalking one of the must-do-activities here.
I started my day like this, mudwalking, and taking a little stroll around the hallig. Then I was driven by Anne, the daughter of Anja and Swen, to a little store or kiosk, in German, on the top of a hill near the ferry port. Here I ate my fresh fish bread with a bottle of beer. Have I ever eaten fresher fish bread than this? I guess not! Ambience counts, and what could be better than this: eating delicious food with a picture-perfect view? I browsed the souvenirs as well, as this kiosk sells various odds and ends, such as magnets and postcards.
If you like seals, like me, you will love this. Seals are considered one of the top predators on Langeneß, sunbathing, hunting, and breeding on the hallig. Anne told me that we can watch the seals – so we did. We went to their spot, a sandbank near the lighthouse, and observed them using binoculars. It was very captivating to be able to see the wild seals directly in their habitat. When it began to rain, we took shelter in the open air. We drove to a historic house which is now being preserved as a museum on Langeneß, Germany. During the ride to the museum, I realized that I didn’t have to buckle up my seatbelt, and that Anne just parked her van casually without even locking it. The highlight of this observation came when she told me during our ride that there are no police on Langeneß. It’s that peaceful!
In the museum, I learnt how people lived here in the Middle Ages. I realized how small they were compared to the Germans now from the size of their beds, which, back then, were small and shaped like wardrobes which closed from the inside. Not ideal for anyone who suffers from claustrophobia! I learned also how manual their lives were, with hands-on tools and techniques, specifically when it came to washing; they did not yet have any sort of plumbing system.
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After the museum visit, the weather was better, with even a hint of sun. So we went to the beach and decided to search for amber stones. Amber stone is a fossilized tree resin, commonly found on the islands surrounded by Baltic and North seas. Langeneß, Germany, is one of these islands. After a storm, you can often find amber stones among the remaining algae on the sand. On a bright day, their orange colouring reflects strongly against the algae. Searching for amber stones is certainly a fun thing to do. But did you also know that amber stone is popular as a great natural purifier to absorb negative energy and vibes from our body? Some say they also aid in regenerating broken tissues, resolving heart problems, and alleviating other pains.
Following our treasure hunt, we wanted to rest a little. Feeling a little dirty and sticky from the weather and the stone-searching, I decided to head back to the inn, go down to the water, and swim a little. Time flew, and I soon realized that the sun was setting. I packed my clothes, took a quick shower, and enjoyed the sunset. As I sat on the grass, another guest in the house came to join me and bask in the view. She was a nun, and a regular visitor on Langeneß island. She said: ‘’It’s beautiful, isn’t it?’’ to which I answered: ‘’Yes, far beyond my expectations.’’ She looked and me smiled. ‘’I always come here once a year. Everybody who has ever been here always comes back again.’’ I said to myself, ‘’and now I understand why.’’
