WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
As Lisbon begins to wake up, the narrow, residential streets of Alcântara start to brighten, morning sun bouncing from the cracked yet ornately-painted tiles. People trickle slowly out onto the pavements, the tinkling of coffee cups the soundtrack to a typical morning in this sleepy, traditional neighbourhood. Café owners arrange their tables along the cobbles, casting a familiar bom dia to those who pass by; rattling shutters are lifted by store owners, as florists lay out the day’s wares, colour exploding into the calm of the morning. The big-city rush which permeates Lisbon’s more central neighbourhoods has not yet reached Alcântara, with its dozy corner shops and decidedly Portuguese pastelarias. Historically Lisbon’s most industrial area, the neighbourhood today is still home to both the iconic mustard-yellow trams which clatter through the city, and a large majority of Lisbon’s shipping companies: in fact, this quiet, largely residential cluster of houses is one of the city’s main transport hubs.
Tucked into the shadow of the looming Ponte 25 de Abril, a bridge built to commemorate the country’s independence from its dictatorial government in 1974, Alcântara’s soul stems from its local community, its unique culture planted firmly – almost stubbornly – in tradition. Despite a palpable increase in Alcântara’s tourism rates, its evermore apparent sense of gentrification owing largely to the construction of the hip, repurposed LX Factory, this neighbourhood has not yet lost touch with its old-fashioned Portuguese roots.
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Traditional cafés and pastelarias are dotted along the streets of Alcântara, framing its bustling squares and hidden among the neighbourhood’s most residential areas. The best pasteis de nata can be found at Pastelaria Tanite: the crowning jewel of the Largo das Fontainhas. Its interior is typical of any and all traditional restaurants throughout the city: framed by glass shelves, proudly displaying endless, somewhat dusty bottles of ginja; tall metal bar stools with leather-clad seats lining the marble counter; lengthy cabinets displaying row upon row of Portuguese pastry; a lone television settled into a high corner of the room, silently recounting the day’s news bulletins. All of this encourages conversation among its regulars, who the staff welcome as if they were family. But outside, the café boasts arguably the best spot in town, bathed in sunlight, with an undisturbed view of the passing trams. Their sweet, crumbly pasteis are second to none, served with either powdered cinnamon or sugar. Also wonderful are the pastries at Pastelaria Lorena and Galão, both a stone’s throw from the two main squares, which seem to merge into one. Bad coffee does not exist in Portugal: you are guaranteed a delicious brew at any place you stumble across.
To experience authentic local food, seafood restaurant O Palácio is beloved by residents from all across the city. Serving freshly-caught fish, prepared in simple yet flavourful dishes, an evening in this classically Portuguese haunt will be one to remember. The charismatic waiters not only ask you to choose your meal from the bubbling tanks which encircle the room, but will also ensure that your glass is never empty, offering you a selection of their delicious local wines. O Palácio is chaotic, exciting, and comforting all at once: a delightful assault on the senses – especially at weekends. For visitors craving home comforts, The Garage is a smokehouse and barbecue joint owned and managed by two brothers from New Mexico. The pair’s unparalleled Southern hospitality and enticingly American menu – and range of craft beers – make this restaurant one of the most widely-visited in the neighbourhood. Hosting a number of meet-ups and group events, The Garage has also become somewhat of a hub for Lisbon’s thriving digital nomad community, where people flock from all over the city to enjoy their classic burger and home-cooked fries.
It would be impossible to describe Alcântara’s community today without mentioning the infamous LX Factory: a repurposed shipping factory which is now home to a range of bars, restaurants, and boutiques. Art and creativity form the beating heart of the LX Factory, with every inch of wall space expressively decorated by a collection of talented artists. With its whitewashed cafés such as Wish Slow Coffee House, and its unusual boutiques like Bairro Arte, visitors can spend entire days within the walls of this village and never tire of its vibrance and creative spirit. For astonishing views across the glittering Tejo river, rooftop bar Rio Maravilha is one of Lisbon’s most coveted spots for an evening cocktail. The highest of the bar’s two levels is home to the iconic female patchwork statue, which mirrors the imposing Cristo Rei from across the water. Colourful, communal benches encourage conviviality and conversation, making Rio Maravilha one of the top places in the city to meet new people. On Sundays, the LX Factory transforms into a thriving craft market, famous mainly for its delicate, beautiful jewellery, but also boasting a number of traditional food stalls, including mouth-watering Madeiran iguarias. Bookworms should make sure not to miss Livraria Ler Devagar. An unusual bookstore built around an old printing press, this space is a vision in multicoloured spines and sharp metal staircases, with a bar built into the foundations of the printing machine itself.
A world away from the rugged, careworn beauty of Alcântara’s town centre are the luxurious Santo Amaro docks, which sit directly beneath the looming red bridge. In fact, when enjoying a coffee or glass of sangria at one of the port’s many bars, you can hear the distinct hum of cars as they pass over the metal floor of the bridge: sunseekers heading towards the natural beaches of the Costa da Caparica. The Santo Amaro docks in Alcântara mark the halfway point of the riverside footpath which links Lisbon’s city centre to elegant Belém, which is often peppered with keen joggers, dog walkers, and bike riders, all enjoying the pathway’s breathtaking proximity to the waves below. The iconic MAAT Museum is located along this promenade, its swelling shape blending seamlessly into the stone of the path itself. Climb to the roof of the museum to see the 25 de Abril bridge from an entirely new perspective.
Little-known even to Alcântara natives is the Santo Amaro Chapel. A quiet oasis among the endless movement of everyday life, this stark white, oval-shaped chapel would not look out of place atop a hill on a Greek island. Olive trees twist rebelliously out of the cobbles of its esplanade, which offers an unrivalled view across the water. The interior of the chapel itself is equally stunning, with bright, intricately-decorated tiles adorning every inch of its surfaces. To escape normality, and to remind yourself of the unique nature which seems to burst at Lisbon’s seams, climb up to this viewpoint, and admire the rusty colours of this city as the sun sinks below the horizon of Alcântara.
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