WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
A sense of pride fills my chest each time my little car begins the climb through the tiny villages of Brda, scattered across the hills like birdseed. It’s somewhat misplaced, this pride – our final destination, the walled town of Šmartno, is a forty-five-minute drive from my home across the Italian border – but I’ve come to feel strongly about this quiet haven in the Slovenian countryside.
Although decidedly compact in size (with a population of only 200 residents), Šmartno has become an integral meeting point in the Brda region, famed for its long-standing winemaking tradition and incredible untouched beauty. Dating as far back as the early 1300s, Šmartno’s architecture pays homage to its legacy; low stone houses with charming wooden balconies have been carefully preserved to echo the past, encircling the Church of St. Martin which sits at the core of the village, its neat bell tower beckoning visitors from across the valley.
It was this very tower that first drew me to Šmartno: the promise of far-reaching views and shaded alleyways. But nothing could’ve prepared me for that first glimpse of endless greenery, framed by mountains and dotted with houses, that greeted me upon first setting foot onto the stone terrace of Vinoteka Brda. Born some twenty years ago as a collective and sales centre for Brda’s numerous local wineries, the Vinoteka still seeks to respectfully promote the region’s viticultural heritage and centuries-old knowledge of sustainable winemaking.
And with its unparalleled vantage point over the region’s 2,000 hectares of lush vineyard, this wine bar has quickly become a favoured stomping ground for passing cyclists, wine enthusiasts, foodies, and locals, who all make the winding journey to sit for an afternoon and bask in its characteristic calm. The staff at Vinoteka Brda are unwaveringly friendly and passionately knowledgeable about the vintages on offer, with bottles of Rebula and Malvazija waiting patiently on ice to toast your arrival. In any season, the Vinoteka’s uninterrupted panorama across the valley is enough to quiet your senses.
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But this village can occasionally be woken from its slumber, with craftsmen setting up wooden stalls at weekends to sell artisanal honey, handmade jewellery, and other wares. If you time your visit to Šmartno right, you may just catch one of the region’s well-frequented wine festivals, such as Brda & Vino: a vibrant gastronomic event that takes place during spring, uniting over 50 local winemakers and 40 restauranteurs in a celebration of Slovenian culture. Remember to book well in advance; the event is known to sell out quickly, and for good reason!
Each time I leave Vinoteka Brda there’s a lingering sense of nostalgia, my next visit already beginning to take shape in my mind as the Medieval walls of Šmartno are swallowed by greenery in my rearview mirror.
