WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
Music echoes from the sandstone walls of Valletta’s city centre. Each street I turn down guides me towards a new song, the instruments and tempo so different to that I just left behind. But somehow, it doesn’t clash: like the city itself, each melody flows seamlessly into the other, old-school jazz melding effortlessly with upbeat contemporary pop. This may sound like total chaos, but it is precisely this lack of pretention, this artistic freedom, that governs the city of Valletta, Malta.
There are a number of reasons why I chose Malta as the first destination I would travel to following the events of the past eighteen months. The characteristically relaxed pace of life in this part of the world is something I have craved – and I’m sure I’m not alone in feeling this way. But Malta has always had that something more: something which renders it decidedly different to any other Mediterranean country. Is it the compact size, with only 5,000 inhabitants living in its capital? Is it Malta’s Arabic roots, which are evident in the island’s sweeping landscape, speckled by sand-coloured houses? Is it the uninterrupted coastline, where electric blue waters house seemingly-infinite species of sea life?
It is a combination of these factors that give Malta its undeniable pull, inviting (under normal circumstances) over a million tourists each year – with this number only set to keep growing. And whether you’ve come for the country’s intricate history or for its year-round sunshine, you won’t be disappointed.
I’ve already mentioned that Valletta, like Malta itself, is small. With just 5,000 inhabitants covering a span of 0.6 square kilometres, Valletta is – unsurprisingly – Europe’s tiniest capital city. But this doesn’t make it any less charming. Shaded alleyways are framed by colourful, ornate balconies: a detail which has fast become a unique symbol of the city. Beneath these balconies lie an endless array of bars, restaurants, haunts, and hideaways, where locals and visitors take shelter from the sweltering sun. In a feat which should not be underrated, Valletta has managed to pair its steadfast traditions with European modernity, rendering it one of the continent’s up-and-coming homes for digital nomads; in fact, it only takes a quick stroll around the city to leave you looking up rental prices and wondering whether your boss would somehow agree to letting you work remotely. There’s something about Valletta that draws in the wandering soul.
Cast aside the guidebooks for your next trip to Valletta, and delve into the city’s truly local haunts – from its underground coffee houses to its hidden gastronomic gems – with this food and drink guide.
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VALLETTA’S COFFEE CULTURE
Perhaps owing to its fusion of personalities, with roots planted firmly in both Mediterranean and Arabic culture, Valletta is home to an ever-expanding range of cafés and coffee houses, tucked beneath the iconic coloured balconies of the city centre. Whether you’re craving an IG-worthy coffee stop or long for the traditional haunts that are a marker of local life, Valletta, Malta, is not short on places to get your caffeine fix.
Sunday in Scotland
A destination that may seem out-of-place in sunny Malta, Sunday in Scotland is one of Valletta’s most well-loved coffee houses, inspired by the rolling countryside and dreary skies of the Scottish Highlands. Its bright, glass-plated storefront gives passers-by the chance to ogle the café’s ample pastry selection, as well as its pint-sized artisan chocolate boutique. With walls lined in aesthetic magazines and local newspapers, Sunday in Scotland is the perfect place to spend a slow weekend morning relaxing in the Maltese capital.
Coffee Circus
It would be easy to wander past the unassuming entrance to Coffee Circus: a tiny coffee house excavated from the stonework of one of Valletta’s terraced buildings. But upon ducking into the café and treading down the darkened stairs, you’ll be greeted with the aroma of freshly-ground Portuguese coffee, with tables nestled into the natural nooks and crannies of the building itself. Coffee Circus prides itself on its unique blends and brews, and is an ideal stop-off for those looking to fuel up for a day in the city.
A TASTE OF MALTA
It goes without saying that a country like Malta, with such a rich and varied history, would also be the proud owner of an achingly delicious and vastly underrated culinary culture. With a range of freshly caught seafood dishes, hearty rabbit stews, and flaky savoury pastizzi contributing to just a small portion of Malta’s food repertoire, there is so much to be discovered when it comes to the country’s gastronomy. And where better to get a taste of Malta than Valletta?
Combining the city’s modern influences with its steadfastly traditional roots, Valletta’s selection of restaurants and eateries are something of a tasting platter for contemporary Maltese cuisine.
Grano
For a simple but flavoursome lunch, sandwich and bagel shop Grano should find itself at the top of your list. With a seemingly endless choice of fillings and bread types – including soft yet crispy local ftira – these loaded buns are best enjoyed at the café’s iron tables, which lay spattered across the uneven steps of Triq Santa Lucia. Wash your sandwich down with a bottle of Kinnie: a Maltese staple when it comes to fizzy drinks.
Aaron’s Kitchen
Despite its decidedly English name, Aaron’s Kitchen is one of the best spots in Valletta for an authentic taste of Malta. It is rare to find such a modest, family-run eatery at the heart of a capital city, but it is precisely this small-town feel that gives Valletta its charm; this sense of respect for the traditional amongst the hubbub of visitors which flock there. Aaron Degabriele is the head chef at his eponymous restaurant, curating his Maltese menu with a hint of Italian flavour, and shining a light upon little-known local delicacies such as frejjeg tat-tarja and ravjul tal-Gbejniet. If Aaron’s chequered tablecloths and candlelit walls don’t draw you in, then its homely, hearty aromas will.
VALLETTA AFTER DARK
Beyond the postcard-perfect streets and gently-swaying palm trees of Valletta’s labyrinthine centre lies a side to the city that emerges only once the sun has set. Buildings which, by day, seem to slumber under the hazy midday sun come suddenly to life, throwing open their heavy wooden doors to the sound of thumping music and animated chatter. Valletta is quickly gaining traction for its nightlife, its party scene leaping to the top of Europe’s it-list. Here, in the shaded alleyways, swanky cocktail bars flank humble enotecas, each equally inviting as the other; a night on the town in Valletta can be as laid-back or as calamitous as you choose it to be.
Bridge Bar
As implied in its name, Bridge Bar is a wine and cocktail bar located on a small bridge that connects Liesse to Triq Sant’Orsla. From its vantage point on the stone steps of the city, Bridge Bar offers a view across the eastern bay and towards the celebrated Three Cities, and is particularly beautiful at dusk, as the streetlights slowly begin to flicker to life. On Friday nights Bridge Bar comes alive, as the weekly live jazz band takes to the makeshift stage. Don’t expect to find a seat here at weekends; instead, take your cocktail to one of the cushions scattered across the wide stone stairway and soak in the cacophony of laughter and live music.
Yard 32
Upon approaching Yard 32, which is perched on a street corner at the heart of Valletta, it is impossible not to gravitate towards its chaotic, colourful, yet beautifully-curated storefront. With vibrant tiles and haphazardly-placed flowerboxes crowding the white walls of the bar’s exterior, Yard 32 is as joyful as its aesthetic. Although famed as Valletta’s most well-loved gin bar, Yard 32 offers an extensive and eclectic cocktail menu, accompanied by freshly made tapas which can be ordered from the hatch in the wall of the building. An Ibiza-esque haunt with a proudly Mediterranean soul, people can often be found dancing in the streets outside Yard 32.
67 Kapitali
Craft beer connoisseurs should make sure to add 67 Kapitali to their bucket list when visiting Valletta, Malta. Modern yet unpretentious in its style, this bar is famed city-wide for its extensive beer menu, boasting a collection of local brews from Valletta and beyond. If you find yourself growing peckish, this artisan pub also offers delicious burgers, each with their own pairing suggestion from the beer menu.
