WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
Settled into the rugged landscape of Spain’s East coast lies the city of Valencia. Known primarily for its infamous paella and stunningly warm summers, this eclectic Spanish metropolis has much more to offer than meets the eye. Valencia is a city of contradictions: its uncomplicated, bohemian lifestyle is met by an undercurrent of innovation and technology, pioneered by the world-renowned Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències. It is little wonder, within a city with such a varied sense of identity, that each neighbourhood feels decidedly diverse; from the ramshackle, Wild West-inspired buildings of El Cabanyal to the wide, modern avenues of Algirós and Camins al Grau, even the Valencian suburbs have their own story to be told.
Despite its endless stretches of sand, and winding, shadowy streets, Valencian culture is celebrated primarily for one thing: its food. Home to some of the world’s most talented Michelin-star chefs – including the likes of Quique Dacosta – the city’s gastronomic scene is simple, flavourful, and centred around quality local ingredients. Its iconic seafront location means that fresh fish is plentiful; the natural parks which surround the area boast wide expanses of rice fields; the trees which are dotted throughout the city grow bright, juicy oranges. This combination of ingredients has created some of Spain’s most quintessential dishes – and, arguably most importantly, desserts. A trip to the Mercat Central cannot be complete without sampling the area’s legendary fartons (a sweet, doughy bun, glazed with sugar), washed down with a refreshingly-chilled glass of orxata:the region’s renowned drink, made from ground tiger nuts.
PICTURE-PERFECT CITY CENTRE
Seeped in a rich history, and doused in the warm hues of a tropical sunset, Valencia’s city centre is the crowning jewel of this vast European metropolis. Known to be one of the largest historic centres on the continent, Valencia’s Old Town is a true fusion of cultures and civilisations. With roots planted firmly within both Roman and Muslim societies, the architecture here is elegant yet rustic, with wide expanses of glistening white stone leading up to the imposing cathedral. As you pass beneath the intricately-decorated archways beside this 13th century masterpiece, you are guided to the secluded Carrer del Palau. Stop here to enjoy a coffee under the shade of the gracefully-designed Cabildo de Valencia, escaping for a moment from the rush of tourists and locals which await on the other side.
But among the sparkling white stone and regal, detailed landmarks, Valencia’s streets begin to showcase the city’s artistic soul in an entirely different way. Explosions of colourful street art adorn the walls of its narrow alleyways, each piece bigger and brighter than the last. Particularly as you approach the Northern end of the centre, tucked behind the Mercat Central, the wealth of architecture seems to drop away, leaving a vibrant, youthful Valencia in its place; somehow, the two worlds blend seamlessly. Pocket-sized bars are nestled into these buildings, serving copious helpings of the city’s most infamous and most lethal cocktail: Agua de Valencia. Expect these pitchers of neon-orange liquid to be accompanied by a series of delicious tapas dishes.
Lose yourself among the teetering piles of leather-bound books in Valencia’s enchantingly old-fashioned bookshops. Located beyond an unsuspecting archway, branching away from the Plaça de la Reina, lies La Guarida de las Maravillas. The store itself seems almost to have leapt from the pages of a fable, with its dark wood furnishings and large, cumbersome tables, overflowing with vintage comics, magazines, and well-thumbed tomes. Spend an afternoon navigating your way through the labyrinth of words within this store, and you’ll emerge into the sunshine feeling relaxed and inspired.
FRAMED BY NATURE
Perhaps one of Valencia’s most unique characteristics, the lush Jardins del Túria wrap neatly around the city centre. The park’s iconic, winding shape is due to its unusual history: this innovative green space was built into the riverbed of the old Túria River, whose course was diverted following a devastating flood in 1957. Beloved by runners, cyclists and sunbathers alike, this park was designed to accommodate a variety of community-based activities, whilst never losing sight of the natural beauty which prevails in the city. The park is punctuated by statues, gardens, and an array of tropical trees, creating an oasis of greenery at the heart of such a large metropolis.
Protruding from the park are the equally-beautiful Jardins del Real: a well-manicured set of gardens which once housed the Royal Palace. Now home to a number of cultural events, as well as a flurry of brightly-coloured tropical birds, this park is the perfect location for a sunny-day stroll. Visit the city’s Natural Science Museum, or stop for a refreshment at the esplanade’s picturesque outdoor café; entire afternoons can be happily whiled away amongst the daintily-landscaped nature of these gardens.
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SCIENCE AND INNOVATION
Looming over the Southern end of these gardens sits an architectural masterpiece so futuristic that a spaceship almost appears to have landed among the lush greenery and delicate, ancient architecture of Valencia. This collection of seven bulbous, glistening-white buildings can only be the infamous Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències: a cultural and architectural site known for its unique geometric aesthetic, as well as its informative exhibitions. One of the most important tourist destinations in the country, the museum is an artistic and scientific feat, and has been unsurprisingly used as the filming location for a number of different sci-fi blockbusters.
A true representation of the city itself, the Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències marries forward-thinking innovation with an appreciation for nature and tradition; its L’Umbracle structure, built to cover an abandoned car park, is now a long, bright greenhouse, boasting a variety of plant species native to Valencia. Speckled throughout the inconceivably still waters of the complex’s vast pools are works of modern art, introducing splashes of colour and light to an otherwise-clinical palette of whites, greys and blues. Particularly noteworthy are L’Hemisfèric, designed to resemble a blinking eye, and the Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe, whose intricate structure was inspired by the sharp angles of a whale’s skeleton.
BOHEMIAN BEACH LIFE
Valencia’s thriving, bohemian beach scene contributes to a large part of the city’s identity. With a 4km-long stretch of soft, golden sand, peppered with chiringuitos which serve fluorescent cocktails to thirsty sunbathers, beach life is well-engrained into the laidback Valencian lifestyle. To reach the Playa de la Malvarrosa – the city’s largest and most popular beach – you first pass through El Cabanyal. A thoroughly unique neighbourhood in both its architecture and its atmosphere, this gaggle of short, rustic buildings could easily have been plucked from the streets of Latin America. By day, the neighbourhood is almost eerily calm, its shaded cobbles frequented by wandering locals and the occasional disorientated beachgoer; by night, the area bursts into life, with cheerful chatter spilling from the doors of tiny bars and restaurants. Among these is Ca La Mar: a small seafood restaurant whose nautical décor is just as enticing as the delicious smell wafting into the street outside.
As you wander North along the promenade, a row of bars and restaurants begins to appear alongside you, disguised by the nondescript, residential buildings which house them. Perhaps most famous of these hangouts is La Fabrica de Hielo, which champions itself as a cultural and events centre. An open-plan whitewashed space, decorated with tall plants and rustic furnishings, La Fabrica de Hielo is a haunt for Valencia’s youthful, partygoing population. The room is framed by pint-sized bars and food stands, a set of DJ decks gleaming in the corner; when night falls, friends gather in this spot to listen to live sets from a range of genres and artists. The space lends itself to this exact crowd: the vibrant, young creatives of Valencia.
Beyond the city, where the thread of beach bars begins to trail away, and wild sand dunes engulf the carefully-paved footpaths, Valencia’s nature takes over. Tracing the steps of an unkempt path through endless expanses of dusty fields, you won’t encounter another soul, save for the odd ramshackle cottage springing up from among the crops. But follow this road for long enough, and the fields blend into rivers, mustard-yellow houses appearing upon the horizon; a small, white church is half-hidden by tall reeds, the sea lapping faithfully in the background.
Yet, across the river, you are thrust somewhat abruptly back into civilisation, stumbling across the picture-perfect town of Port Saplaya – or, as it is better known, La Pequeña Venecia. The nickname (which translates to little Venice) is aptly suited to describe this sheltered bay of candy-coloured houses, each with a small but luxurious yacht docked outside. Wander through this maze of bright, Venetian-style buildings and tranquil waters and marvel once again at the many faces and identities this city has to offer.
