WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
The pastel-fronted houses of Udine’s Via Vittorio Veneto are quiet at this time of the morning, the elegant porticoes casting shadows across the cobbled road. The sun slices through gaps in the stonework, although most of the street is tucked into the shade of the crisp November day. Ahead, the awe-striking buildings of Piazza della Libertà glint in the brightness, the Porticato di San Giovanni’s iconic clock tower standing proudly in its Santorini-esque shades of sea blue and glaring white. Across the square is the Loggia del Lionello, resplendent in its shining terracotta-coloured stones, whose archways perfectly capture Udine life within a series of rounded frames.
Whilst elegance prevails within the architecture here, which draws inspiration from its neighbouring Slovenian and Austrian cultures, community and friendship lies at the heart of this tiny city. Residents wander the warren of streets which thread away from Piazza San Giacomo, casting a warm greeting to everyone they pass. The pace of life here is distinctly laid-back, without the rush of Italy’s larger cities. A coffee can be slowly sipped, the morning newspaper pored over, an evening aperitivo melting long into the night. Whilst there is plenty to see in Udine, it has not yet leapt onto the tourist trail, tucked inconspicuously, as it is, at the foot of the Dolomites; on a clear day, the pastel haze of these mountain peaks watch over the city, silent and reassuring.
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A maze of gentle canals winds through the city, the soft trickling reminiscent of Udine’s proximity to the vast, beautiful landscape of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Pushing stubbornly through the narrow gaps between the city’s peach-toned buildings, these minute rivers reflect a hidden heart of Udine, their banks framed by cafés and bars, which go almost unnoticed by many who visit the city. Around the corner, the bustle of local osterie begins to float through the air, jovial conversation echoing from the stonework; here in one of Italy’s most renowned wine regions, it is never too early for a tipple.
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