WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
Bright trams rattle along the narrow, shaded streets of Lisbon’s Alfama neighbourhood, rushing past intricately-patterned houses and minute fado bars. This area, so rich in history and spattered with breathtaking viewpoints, is the beating heart of Lisbon’s sprawling city centre. Although beloved by visitors, Alfama has never lost sight of its traditional charm; the alleyways are quiet and residential, with lines of gently-swaying laundry criss-crossing above you, and locals perched on low stools by their front doors, enjoying the warmth of the morning sun. Unlike other central areas of the city, the pace of life here is decidedly slow, the cafés and pastelarias inexpensive but delicious. It is here, among the rustic cobbles and hidden staircases, that you will find some of Lisbon’s most impressive sights and most recognisable landmarks.
The rows of tall, pastel buildings, with their delicate tiles and wrought-iron balconies, are interspersed with loud bursts of street art. These murals, which appear from between the orange trees, are representative of Lisbon’s ever-present artistic spirit: this is a city where tradition goes hand-in-hand with creativity and innovation. The whitewashed walls which encircle the elegant Igreja de São Miguel are adorned with illustrations and decoration. Here, modern art fuses seamlessly with the church’s ornate Baroque frescos. Just a short walk from the church, the impossibly thin alleyways open into the quaint Largo de São Rafael: a compact, split-level square surrounded by bustling bars and restaurants. The Medrosa d’Alfama, with its array of wooden tables, serves generous jugs of refreshing sangria and a selection of traditional pestiscos (Portuguese tapas). Stop here to enjoy a relaxed lunch in the shade of the looming buildings.
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CASTLES & CATHEDRALS
The streets of Lisbon’s Alfama wrap themselves gracefully around a steep hill – a characteristic of the city which, although exhausting, proffers beautiful views on every corner. Perched atop this incline is the iconic Castelo de São Jorge: a dark stone fortress dating back to 1 BC, which keeps silent watch over the entire city. Its esplanade is dotted with trees, a flurry of elegant peacocks treading their way between the roots as you wander slowly towards the low wall which marks the boundaries of the castle. Lisbon’s terracotta rooftops are stretched out before you, the Ponte 25 de Abril hazy on the horizon; at sunset, the city is cast in a deep orange glow. Entry to the castle grounds costs only 10€, but is free of charge for Lisbon residents.
Somewhat reminiscent of Paris’ infamous Notre Dame, the Sé de Lisboa is a Roman Catholic cathedral located at the south-western end of Alfama. The oldest church in the city, this cathedral is architecturally stunning, yet aptly rustic, its exterior constructed of a light, sandy brick. Stepping inside the church itself is to step into Lisbon’s history: a medley of Medieval, Arabic, and Roman ruins can be found among the Gothic details of this cathedral. The imposing silence of the church is broken only by the clatter of trams and tuk tuks in the streets of Lisbon’s Alfama outside.
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ENCHANTING VIEWS
Owing to the city’s fluctuating terrain – Lisbon is known, after all, as the City of Seven Hills – the Alfama neighbourhood boasts a number of breathtaking miradouros. Wandering up the Rua Limoeiro, which runs beside the cathedral, you will be confronted by the blinding blue tiles and elaborate gardens which frame the Miradouro de Santa Luzia. A detailed, tile-clad walkway, its pillars tightly wound with lush greenery, makes the perfect shaded spot to enjoy the stunning sea view. Often, a live musician can be found settled underneath the mass of purple flowers, cascading from the branches of a vivid jacaranda tree. Whilst this area can be busy on a summer’s day, the crowds seem to drop away as you gaze across the rooftops and out towards the glittering waters of the Tejo river. It is from this picturesque garden in Lisbon’s Alfama that you can access the well-concealed Bar Terraço de Santa Luzia: a tiny outdoor café with an unbeatable view.
Just behind the Igreja de Santa Luzia lies what is arguably the city’s most charming – and decidedly most iconic – miradouro: the Miradouro das Portas do Sol. One lone palm tree rises up from among the sea of bright white and rust-orange buildings. To your right, a slice of turquoise sea is just visible; straight ahead are the ornate twin bell towers of the São Vicente de Fora church; beyond this, the broad dome of the Panteão peeks between the rooftops. Almost as beautiful as the view itself is the square behind it, framed by the rich burgundy walls of the Fundação Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva, and punctuated by passing trams. This square, the Largo Portas do Sol, is home also to a small, traditional quiosque serving cold lagers, strong coffee, and other snacks and refreshments, making it the perfect location for an evening drink.
FEIRA DA LADRA
Every Tuesday and Saturday, the peaceful streets of Lisbon’s Alfama, beneath the imposing Panteão, come alive with the cries of market vendors, the jostle of crowds, and the clinking of glasses and coffee cups. This is the Feira da Ladra: the city’s most popular flea market. With an endless selection of second-hand wares splayed across blankets or spilling from collapsible tables, this vibrant market attracts hundreds of visitors to the neighbourhood twice a week. Everything from hand-crafted furniture and dainty china figurines to sparkling jewellery and vinyls of every genre can be found at this flea market, which dates as far back as the 1800s.
Among the treasures and trinkets is Armazem das Caldas: a tiny store selling beautiful hand-painted ceramics, distinguished from nearby houses by the cream-coloured Vespa which sits beside the entrance. Take shelter from the crowds in unique café Focaccia in Giro, which overlooks the lush Botto Machado gardens. Order one of their celebrated focaccia sandwiches from the counter, which has been constructed from a repurposed food truck, and enjoy the bright, homely atmosphere of this unusual eatery.
THE ART OF FADO
Although not a widely-known genre, the heart-wrenching beauty of fado music is threaded intrinsically into the heart of Lisbon. With roots in the city’s three main port areas – Alfama, Mouraria, and Bairro Alto – fado originated in the early 19th century, and was sung and danced by the urban working-class population. Today, the music is known for its sombre, somewhat melancholic feel, embodying the uniquely Portuguese concept of saudade: a profound nostalgia or longing. In Alfama, a string of pint-sized, traditional fado bars can be found along the Rua de São João da Praça, which flanks the southern wall of the striking cathedral. These bars double also as restaurants, serving classic Portuguese dishes to enjoy as the gentle melodies of the fadista’s song drift through the room. Often, these restaurants are dimly-lit, cosy, and compact, frequented by local residents sipping at glasses of intoxicating ginja.
