WORDS & PICTURES: Simone Kynaston
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After a year of long-distance dating, Simone of Nether-Netherland packed her bags and headed out of the UK to the Netherlands to begin a new chapter with her partner – they’ve been discovering new corners of the world ever since. You’ll most likely find her buying snacks and heading out on long walks – unless she’s got her head in a book, that is.
The Places That Made Me is an interview series exploring the destinations around the world that people have most fallen in love with. Every week, we speak to a keen traveller or writer about the travel experiences that have made them the person they are today. This week, we speak to Simone of Nether-Netherland, who fell in love with Japan.
Where is the ‘place that made you’?
Japan is the place that made me. On our trip in November 2019 I was lucky enough to be able to explore Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Nagoya, and Nara, and practically watch the leaves on the trees turn scarlet before my very eyes.
Whilst I’d always wanted to visit Japan, I wasn’t quite prepared for how much I’d fall in love with the country, its people, and the culture. It will always stick out in my mind as being one of the best countries to explore.
What is your favourite memory from that place?
Discovering the rich culinary delights of Japan – from its brightly lit 7Eleven convenience store with its custard fish and sickly sweet fruity candy, to the country-wide famous Ichiran, where you can choose your own ingredients and create your own perfect ramen bowl. These are just a few of my favourite memories of the country.
Of course there are more: the ramen restaurant we stumbled upon down a side alley in Shinjuku; the unassuming Japanese curry house on the busiest street in Dotonbori; the YouTube-recommended Katsudon restaurant that we finally found (despite it being so well hidden that we walked past it 3 times); and, of course, Izakaya Toyo – aka the guy who’ll blowtorch tuna with his bare hands and give you the thumbs up as you stare open-mouthed at his skills.
As someone who thinks with their stomach 95% of the time, I knew Japanese cuisine was going to be a big thing for me. I got wrapped up in all Japanese food apart from sushi (I’m not a fan of raw fish), and with so many options for a hearty meal no matter where we were, we were never short of inspiration.
Related article | The Places That Made Me: Emma Melling
How did it change or impact you?
Seeing Japan in all its cultural glory was magical. The Japanese are incredibly polite and hospitable, the streets are the cleanest that I’ve ever walked, and their love for modernity as well as their ancient roots is clear to see. It’s a country where you’ll find a 24/7 arcade on one corner, and an ancient temple in a beautifully kept garden just 100 metres away.
Visiting Japan definitely changed how I viewed the West. We think we have a solid community, an outstanding culture, and that we’re leading the way, but we’re so behind in so many ways. I came home with a new sense of perspective, and a deepened love for the Japanese culture.
“Seeing Japan in all its cultural glory was magical… It’s a country where you’ll find a 24/7 arcade on one corner, and an ancient temple in a beautifully-kept garden just 100 metres away.”
If you had only 24 hours there, what would you see/do?
Riding a bullet train between Kyoto and Tokyo gives you incredible views of Mount Fuji, so I’d definitely hitch a ride after spending a few hours strolling through Kyoto’s beautiful nature.
Once I’d reached Tokyo, I’d head to the SkyTree where you’re promised the most stunning sunset and panoramic views over the city in the world’s tallest tower. Seeing how vast and layered Tokyo is is a sight to behold.
Finally, I’d stock up on my favourite treats from 7Eleven and then wander the city after dark, checking out the neon lights that line the streets. There’s definitely an electric vibe in the city after dark.
What is a little-known fact or hidden secret about this place that tourists wouldn’t know?
Investing in a JR Pass won’t necessarily save you as much cash as you might think.
It seems to be one of the top ‘money saving tips’ out there, but we found that buying the €400 Japan Railway Pass didn’t save us that much cash, even though we crossed the country. In fact, we still had to buy metro train tickets in certain areas of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka anyway, which meant that we ended up spending a little more than we’d hoped by the end of the trip. With that being said, if you’re planning a trip to Japan, don’t rule the JR Pass out completely. If you plan your routes and find that it’s going to save you money – perfect! They can’t be used everywhere though, so do bear that in mind.
The railway system throughout Japan is fantastic – I remember when we first arrived, bleary-eyed and jet lagged, and we had to catch a train from the airport into the city. When our train pulled up, we were warned to stay back and wait for these ladies in pink to board the empty carriages and spring clean them to perfection before we were allowed to get on the train. Not only did they wash the windows and remove any litter that had been collected in the bins, but they turned all the carriage seats around so that they were facing the same way that the train would move.
Read Simone’s guide to getting the most out of your trip to Japan
Simone’s Top Picks
Favourite restaurant: Kyushu Jangara Ramen or Katzudon Hozen-Ji Yokocho
Firstly, in Tokyo, down a little side street in Shinjuku, is Kyushu Jangara Ramen. It’s a tiny restaurant, and you’ll have to queue up outside, but it’s so worth it for the best ramen in the city.
In Osaka, away from the hustle and bustle is Katzudon Hozen-Ji Yokocho. Their katzudon is to die for. I’m still annoyed at myself for not returning for a second round.
Favourite bar: Sunshine Sakae
I wouldn’t be talking about Japan if I didn’t mention a karaoke bar, right? We spent one night in Nagoya, and headed to Sunshine Sakae, where we ordered unlimited fries and drinks (it’s all included in the price) and sang our hearts out.
Favourite coffee house: Fluffy’s Cafe
In Fluffy’s Café we were able to play with and pet the cats, and they clearly had a good care regime, as we saw plenty of staff wandering in and out and checking that the cats were comfortable and had everything they needed. We were able to have a drink while we were there, and I even met a 10kg cat called Basil, so all in all, I’d call that a great morning.
Favourite spot: Nara Deer Park
The deer in this park are sacred, and respected and cared for round-the-clock. To injure one of the deer in this park is literally illegal and seen as bad luck. It was wonderful to be able to wander through this park alongside these creatures and to appreciate the nature around us.
Love the way Simone describes her experience. She’s really made me think outside of just Tokyo for a future Japan visit!
Japan has never been high up on my travel list, but after reading Simone’s blog, it’s now undoubtedly in the top 5! A cafe with cats, fast as lightening trains, karaoke bars, ramen, a deer park? It all sounds so wonderfully magical. I loved reading about how there was an arcade on one corner and a sacred temple in a beautifully kept garden on the next. Mixed with the idea of the electric night time city vibes, Japan it looks like I’ll be meeting you for the first time in the near future!