WORDS & PICTURES: Cullan McNamara
Connect with Cullan on Instagram | YouTube | Spotify | Attempting Local Podcast | CullanMcNamara.com
Cullan McNamara is a photographer, videographer, writer, and musician. Back in 2016, he was hired to film and photograph a client’s nine-day hiking trip through Colorado, and he’s been traveling and creating ever since. He now works as a freelancer in the United States. Catch his work on Instagram and YouTube, or check out his podcast, Attempting Local: A Year Abroad in Galway, Ireland.
The Places That Made Me is an interview series exploring the destinations around the world that people have most fallen in love with. Every week, we speak to a keen traveller or writer about the travel experiences that have made them the person they are today. Photographer and videographer Cullan found himself drawn in by the charming seafront town of Galway, Ireland. Find out why.
Where is the ‘place that made you’?
I’ve been staring at this question for almost four weeks, and it’s nearly impossible to answer… Every place I’ve traveled to has impacted me in some way, some locations more heavily than others.
I’m tempted to say Athens, Greece. This was the first foreign country I explored, and I was lucky enough to live there for a month, studying the ancients and their culture. Athens opened me up to the world, taught me how to be a mindful traveler, and helped me understand how to immerse myself in a new culture. It also completely changed the course of my life.
But the place that made me who I am today is undoubtedly Galway, Ireland. That beautiful and frustrating coastal city on the west side of Ireland. It has the most unique aura I’ve experienced to date. It’s categorized by eclectic artists, god-awful weather, a beautiful mix of urban and the outdoors, and some of the best nights out in the world.
Galway is hailed (affectionately) by the Irish as, ‘The place where dreams go to die ‘cause you’ll never want to leave it.’
What is your favourite memory from that place?
To be truthful, the memory of that place is my favorite. Cycling past distracted tourists. Sitting in cafés for hours on end, conjuring up my next project. Writing next to the River Corrib and watching seals breach the water’s surface. Listening intently to the incredibly talented buskers and street performers as I strolled past.
Galway’s essence lingers long after you’ve departed, and I cherish that.
My all-time favorite memory, though, has to be the lock-in I experienced at The Black Gate.
The Black Gate is a wine-and-beer bar, cultural center, venue, and is home to the best charcuterie boards in the city. I worked evenings there as a Social Media Marketer, and I often filmed the live music we hosted. This favorite memory of mine is encapsulated in this journal entry:
“Stop looking at the time. This is worth it,” Hannah, our new chef, said. And though it wasn’t the first time I knew it, it reinforced the fact I’d entered The Black Hole: a place between time.
This is when The Black Gate becomes a session: a drinking session, music session, or both. Right now, it’s both. Hannah and Peadar, my boss, harmonize in the dim candlelight of the closed bar. The taps remain lit, resting but never fully asleep. I shut my eyes and listen to the otherworldly voices of these two Irish folk, their vocals blending into one perfectly tuned song. I feel blessed, not lucky, to be here….
Hannah’s cigarette smoke choked out the air, and we passed around the acoustic guitar, taking turns playing songs we knew well. Time didn’t exist until it did. After nearly six hours, the sun came up again, and we knew we should leave.
The Black Hole had consumed the time before dawn without us noticing. As a result, I didn’t get home till 6:00 AM.
Explore the British Isles | Hidden Corners of Edinburgh: Dean Village & Water of Leith
How did it change or impact you?
Galway impacted me in more ways than I can count. I discovered who I was, truly, and who I was capable of becoming. It showed me my maximum potential, and I was often able to achieve it there because the community and environment were so nurturing.
The city is built on a foundation of creators, artists, and dreamers. It’s a place that fosters hope, ideas, and imagination. It’s a safe haven for the strange among us (arguably the best among us.)
What does all that mean? It helped me grow into the man I wanted to be for myself, as well as the friend I knew I could be to others.
To be more concrete, I earned my Master’s degree there, which has helped with my career. I professionally recorded multiple songs, which allowed me to release tracks on Spotify and Apple Music for the first time. I wrote a 200-page novel—one that I’m excited to release in the next year or so. I forged valuable friendships that continue to span continents. And I experienced more of the world than I ever thought I would.
So, yeah… Galway did a lot for me. And everything it gave, I am thankful to have received.
“The city is built on a foundation of creators, artists, and dreamers. It’s a place that fosters hope, ideas, and imagination. It’s a safe haven for the strange among us.”
If you had only 24 hours there, what would you see/do?
If I had twenty-four hours in Galway, I would immediately drop my stuff off at my friends’. I would drag said friends to Eyre Square, Shop Street, and The Westend in order to get a pint of Guinness in every pub I love.
O’Connell’s is a must, touting an unreal and magical beer garden. Barr An Chaladh is always a riot. I’d probably hit The Skeff and An Púcán. I’d wander tipsily through Eyre Square, the city centre’s bit of greenery. I’d love a chill moment at both The Black Gate, my former place of employment, and The Salt House, and then we would undoubtedly finish at The Front Door.
We would get a spice bag, consisting of chicken, chinese spices, and chips, at Xi’an’s, and we would stumble home.
Before departing the next day, I would make sure to go to Salthill and watch sunrise on the diving platform. I’d listen to the waves of the North Atlantic sloshing on the rocks, close my eyes, and breathe in a deep sigh of gratitude.
Related article | The Places That Made Me: Alice Albertini
What is a little-known fact or hidden secret about this place that tourists wouldn’t know?
In Galway City, hidden gems and secret places abound. The beer gardens are usually the most amazing to stumble upon. I’d recommend the fantastical beer gardens of O’Connell’s, the Crust Bucket, An Púcán, and The Blue Note, though there are many more.
For food, Matt’s Sandwiches is a great joint. It’s a little shop west of the NUI Galway campus. It’s not exactly in the city centre, so many people miss it. Food for Thought is also amazing for food, coffee, and a break.
If you’re looking for a super local pub, with more authentic Irish music sessions, The Crane Bar is the place to go. Many bars claim to have ‘trad music,’ or traditional Irish music, though they’re not as genuine as they say. The Black Gate is also great for this. Go to a live show there, and you just might get lucky enough to experience a lock-in.
Come to think of it, lock-ins may be one of the most exciting secrets the city has to offer. Most bars, after the legally-mandated closing time, will remain open, lock the doors, and pull down the curtains. You can continue to drink and chat, doing so without music and only a bit more subtly. It’s great fun.
A lot of Galway revolves around drinking and music. So if you’re keen on getting away from the booze and noise, you can leave Galway City, remain within Galway County, and hike the not-so-challenging Diamond Hill. On a clear day, it provides stunning views of the West of Ireland. You could then tour Letterfrack, the town at its base, or visit another endearing countryside town such as Clifden.
Cullan’s Top Picks
Favourite restaurant: You know, I didn’t really sit down in restaurants much. So I’d say either Mr. Waffle Galway for breakfast or The Dough Bros for pizza.
Favourite bar: The Front Door or O’Connell’s. For a more local experience, The Salt House
Favourite coffee house: Food for Thought has amazing food and great, well-priced coffee. It’s also small, cute, and local. It has my heart. Pascal is larger and slightly higher end. It’s a fantastic spot to read and eat some delicious grub. (Splendid American-style bacon.) Caffè Nero in Eyre Square is another favorite because it’s where I spent almost every waking hour in Galway City… other than the pubs, of course.
Favourite spot: In the city, my favorite spot was probably the Spanish Arch area. There’s a park there where you can sit, listen to the calming flow of the River Corrib, and truly relax. Occasionally, seals pop out of the water to gawk at us humans. It’s a spot akin to the Room of Requirement from Harry Potter. It is what you need it to be. You can sip on cans with friends, sit alone and read in peace, or do anything in between.
