WORDS & PICTURES: Hannah Foster-Roe
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There are some places we visit where once is enough; where we leave with our curiosity quenched and without so much as a backward glance. But there are others whose siren call follows us through the world, with a lure so irresistible we find ourselves being drawn back again and again…
This is the spell Croatia has cast over me. Despite having thrice travelled to this endlessly enchanting country, I know for a fact that it’s only a matter of time until I return. I’d be foolish to fight it – and why would I want to? With its jade waters, lush forests, jagged peaks and marble streets worn smooth by centuries of footfall, the coastal region of Dalmatia is a Mediterranean dream in anyone’s book. Yet, as you will quickly discover, there is even more magic dwelling at its heart than what it simply teases at the surface.
WHERE HISTORY IS BUILT INTO EVERY WALL
Croatia sits at the intersection of classical Central Europe with the sun-baked, Southeastern corner of the continent; a unique position which has left its mark on the country. Following its rule under the emperor Diocletian and the colossal Roman Empire, Croatia fought off countless attempted invasions from the Ottomans during the Middle Ages before falling under Austrian governance in 1815. Its chequered past has been shaped by conflict and constitutional shifts, including the collapse of Yugoslavia and Croatia’s own battle for independence in the early 1990s. Nowadays, it bears the scars of its sieges openly – in the form of hilltop fortresses and fortified cities; the stone walls of which are peppered with lasting fissures and wounds inflicted by various attacks.
Dalmatia is where you feel this history most keenly. Venturing south along the Adriatic coast, you are never far from another walled city or town. Zadar, in the north of the region, gained its bastions and buttresses from the reigning Venetians in the sixteenth century and has since joined Croatia’s collection of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Medieval Šibenik boasts four fortresses, each with its own story to tell, while the island settlement of Trogir draws attention from those looking for affordable splendour as well as cultural substance. En-route to the buzzing city of Split, be sure to visit Klis Fortress high up in the mountains, before descending into the noisy metropolis below.
Passing the brutalist structures of casinos, cinemas and shopping malls in the urban outskirts of Split could leave a person wondering if they’ve somehow got it wrong – Split is, after all, best known for its ancient centre and olde-worlde architecture. But after snaking your way through the thoroughly modern entanglement of traffic, you get what you came for: a yacht-dotted promenade leading to the Bronze Gate, which feeds into a cavernous marketplace. At the end of this underpass, follow the steps bathed in daylight and the plaza of Peristil Square will unfold before you. With its grand colonnades and the bell tower of St. Domnius Cathedral looming above, Peristil is where the timelessness of Split is most powerfully absorbed. Take a tour of Diocletian’s Palace from here, where the former emperor roamed the courtyards and whose ramparts still create the perimeter of the precious Old Town today.
Though Dalmatia once relied on such impressive fortifications to annexe itself off from the advancing world, its majestic walls are now greatly responsible for its perennial popularity. No discussion of this would be complete without mention of Dubrovnik, Croatia’s original poster-boy. Its meticulously preserved circumference has cemented Dubrovnik’s reputation as the most sought-after destination in the Balkans – which unfortunately comes with a seasonal onslaught of over-tourism – so visit outside of peak months and hours to explore Dubrovnik at its finest.
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Walking the city walls has become something of a rite of passage among travellers to Dubrovnik. With a full circuit taking up to two hours, I would recommend taking a bottle of water with you and some comfortable shoes! Unrivalled vistas are a constant companion; capturing everything from glimpses into local life to the distant hills of Montenegro, as well as nearby islands speckling the unfathomably blue sea. Hold on to your ticket from the city walls as this can be used later for admission into Fort Lovrijenac, the fortress which overlooks Dubrovnik from the top of a dramatic cliff.
THE EPITOME OF SHABBY-CHIC
In addition to fascinating fortified monuments, it is Croatia’s abundance of rustic beauty that continues to seduce nomads and wanderers everywhere. This shabby-chic aesthetic can be recognised all over the country, from the dusty villages of the Istrian peninsula in the Northwest to idyllic provinces nestled upon islands such as Vis and Korčula. It also thrives profoundly within the cashmere-coloured labyrinths of Dalmatia’s Old Towns; neighbourhoods typically topped with apricot tiles and starched spires. Picture decorative façades covered in weathered carvings, heavy wooden doors and stone gates guarded by lions and gargoyles, scuffed pavements, steep steps, clock towers, townhouses and wrought-iron street lanterns.
The old and the new have forged a fragile alliance in these parts, working together to keep the native flavour of Dalmatia alive. Everything including beach bars, boutique hotels, flashy restaurants, designer stores and Game of Thrones souvenir shops may have sprung up amongst the Old Towns of Dubrovnik, Trogir and Split – yet the inherent authenticity connecting them all remains steadfast, constantly evolving and redefining itself. So, when you look up and see the lines of washing left out to dry over baroque balconies, do not regard it as an eyesore. It is purely a sign that far more is happening here than what the museum-like appearances of these Old Towns first suggest. It is this delicate combination of the traditional with the contemporary that makes Dalmatia so effortlessly charming and accessible.
ISLAND ESCAPES IN DALMATIA, CROATIA
It would be a travesty to come to Croatia and not do a little island-hopping. There are over 1,000 of them embellishing the coast – some inhabited, others deserted – but each with a distinctive vibe of its own to share. There really is an island for everyone; whether it’s Brač with its gold shingly beaches, verdant Mljet, or party-loving Pag. But if your style is understated luxury with side-orders of adventure, culture and views, then Hvar is the one for you.
My only regret from my own visit to Hvar was that I couldn’t stay longer. Offering sunny retreats with a kind of lavish laidback-ness that most of us can only aspire to, Hvar has made a name for itself in recent years as Croatia’s answer to the likes of Cannes or Capri. But Hvar’s opulence is more inconspicuous than that of its counterparts, and subscribing to it is more of a matter of choice than having it thrust upon you. For a quieter side of the island, head to Jelsa and Stari Grad, whose profiles have not yet caught up with star-studded Hvar Town. Enjoy lazy afternoons under parasols and hazy sunsets around the harbours, ending the days with glorious seafood dinners accompanied by glasses of local wine. For something more tranquil still, why not bathe in the shimmering coves of Milna, or take a drive into the mountains?
On the western tip of the island, Hvar Town may be where the cool kids come to play, but that doesn’t mean you need a bottomless allowance in order to soak up the atmosphere here. It is completely beautiful in its own right, even without the glitz and glamour attached to it. Do some people-watching in St. Stephen’s Square over a huge plate of pasta before walking over to the Franciscan Monastery, a journey underscored by notes of sloshing waves. Then brave the climb up to the Spanish Fortress, weaving through the cobbled backstreets until inclining gravelly trails and cactus plants replace the familiar flagstones. Pause at Kruvenica Church to catch your breath, only for it to be taken away again by panoramas framed by the Fortica’s upper parapets.
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There are a few ways to navigate Croatia’s sprawl of characterful islands, depending on your budget and desired comfort level. The most cost-effective option is to make use of the extensive ferry network, which serves a mixture of the trendy and lesser-known spots across the Dalmatian archipelago, operating regular crossings from numerous ports including Split, Makarska and Drvenik. Alternatively, you could opt for a curated cruise or charter your own boat.
THE ALPINE MEETS THE ADRIATIC
Between the stubbly slopes of the Biokovo Mountains and the slender shores of Dalmatia’s elegant stretch of crystalline coastline is where the Makarska Riviera awaits. This segment of the region is mainly suited to action-lovers and adrenaline junkies, as the challenging terrain and proximity to the sea beckons everyone from hikers and bikers to zipliners, jet-skiers and parasailers. But the plentiful assortment of beaches and bays also means that sunbathers and bookworms are equally well catered for.
The Riviera starts in the relaxing resort of Brela, where you can find the popular Punta Rata beach, and officially ends at Gradac. Pleasant stops along the way include Tučepi, Podgora, Igrane and Živogošće. The town of Makarska itself is an evergreen favourite of both domestic and international holidaymakers, with its long waterside esplanade and intimate konobas – traditional Dalmatian taverns. Basking in the shadow of Mount Biokovo, its small size seems even more petite against the immense grey backdrop. If you wish to venture further into the mountain wilderness – even reaching the highest peak of Sveti Jure – there are opportunities for jeep safaris and guided hikes in the warmer months, before temperatures drop and the snow begins to flurry.
CHASING WATERFALLS
Regardless of whether you’re an aficionado of outdoor adventure or not, you must absolutely spend a day at Krka National Park on your way through Dalmatia. Only an hour’s drive from Split, this heavenly maze of gushing falls and forest paths is nature’s own paradise, where every imaginable shade of blue and green exists in perfect balance. Populated by yet more mountains and remote monasteries, this area of stunning scenery is so-named for the Krka river running through it like a spine. Bring a picnic, some walking boots and your swimming costume – because this place really does have it all.
There are five different entrances to Krka National Park, so make sure you research which one would work best for you depending on what points of interest you wish to prioritise. I entered at Skradin, which offers a ferry connection to the site’s main attraction: the Skradinski Buk waterfall. One of my fondest memories is sailing down the sound, filling my lungs with the crispness of the air. There are cycle routes also available, as well as boat excursions to Visovac Island and the Roški Slap falls. Early autumn is a wonderful time to visit, as the colours are at their most striking.
DALMATIA, CROATIA: A CULTURE LIKE NO OTHER
If there is one word I could use to describe the essence of Dalmatia, it’s vibrant. Wherever you go, there seems to be a warm hum of energy, activity and national pride that is inescapably infectious. You can hear it in the voices of klapa singers as they perform soaring acapella harmonies, you can see it in the bustling streets, and you can taste it in the cuisine.
Bokeria, a sleek kitchen and wine bar in Split, is a brilliant spot for indulging in this. With an inventive concept based around food from the soil and sea, their previous dishes have included lamb croquetas, bruschetta with anchovies and oxtail risotto. They don’t have a website, so there’ll be no perusing the menu before you arrive. But I have now been on three separate occasions, so hopefully that says something for how good it is! And when in Dubrovnik, an al-fresco dinner at Restaurant 360 is essential. Set within the city walls, it is both the location and the menu that are sensational here; showcasing Dalmatian and Mediterranean ingredients, cooked with creativity and care.
Coastal Croatia’s rich culture is one built around the simple pleasures of food, music, and gratitude. But this lust for life carries deeper meaning; a weight that comes from surviving a past blighted by warfare and natural disaster. Time and time again, the towns and cities of the region have been destroyed, repaired and resurrected. It is this defiant spirit which pulses throughout Croatia, pouring out of every crack in the masonry and needling under your skin.
To truly experience authentic Dalmatia, I would really recommend a road trip or multi-centre holiday. Allowing yourself one to two weeks should be plenty in order to cover a range of places without rushing and compromising. Travel in September, when the summer crowds have dissipated and the heat has calmed to a more manageable glow.
