WORDS & PICTURES: Harriet Morphy-Morris
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A spontaneous trip to Palermo on the island of Sicily, Italy, allowed my body to heal.
It was August last year, a time when the world had come to a standstill from the everlasting pandemic. My summer plans had been halted, just like thousands across the world, so when a window of travel popped up, the island of Sicily, Italy, sounded perfect.
Set in the heart of the Mediterranean, just off the coast of mainland Italy, it had all the qualities for a relaxing coastal break. That is exactly what my body needed; after recovering from an operation just a week before we booked the trip, I was nervous and apprehensive, but I took the plunge regardless, hoping it would offer me the rest I was looking for.
Remaining under most tourists’ radar, the whole island is widely underrated, including the capital, Palermo. Miles away in both distance and feel from a bustling city break, it is filled with a calming, local atmosphere. In my mind, it is the place to explore without feeling exhausted, overcrowded and ‘on the go’.
We stepped off the plane and onto a blank canvas; we didn’t have a set plan or itinerary because we wanted to feel at ease and discover the Sicilian culture without rushing. Sicily, Italy, is a place where you can explore to your heart’s content, without feeling exhausted.
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As we started to explore our cobbled surroundings, the understated history and culture took my breath away. On every corner we were welcomed with something new and unexpected. As we walked closer towards the centre, amidst the beeping of Vespas, you could hear the trickling of the Fontana Pretoria. The centrepiece of Piazza Pretoria, the fontana gleams with magnificence. As soon as I saw it, I was immediately taken back to Rome; I got the same feeling of awe as if I were standing in front of the Trevi Fountain. This time, though, I didn’t have to pull myself to the front of a crowd, nor get in the way of tourists’ photos: we had the magnificent piazza to ourselves.
The streets of Palermo are bursting with history and ancient architecture, many of which capture the Arabic, Greek and Roman features of its past. Known as the ‘most Arabic city in Europe’, its features continue to flourish in the sounds and smells of its many street markets. The three main markets are Capo, Vucciria and Ballarò, each offering a variety of local cuisine, filled with the distinctive Sicilian flavours of lemon, orange and pistachio.
Speaking of Sicily’s distinct palate, the city is filled with intimate local restaurants offering a selection of seafood pasta, risotto, arancini and caprese salads: all of which are locally sourced. Hidden behind a deli off the Via Vittorio Emanuele is a secluded courtyard restaurant, offering a small menu of traditional plates. As I stepped away from the bustling street, my mind overrun with crowds of people, I was immediately drawn into the overpowering smell of olive oil and fresh basil. There was only one waiter for the whole restaurant, but he enthusiastically chatted away to each table, including us, as if he were a long-lost friend. Sat beneath the bursting Italian sun, I felt a part of the culture and community.
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Continuing along Via Vittorio Emanuele is the renowned Cattedrale di Palermo. The surrounding gardens are beautifully landscaped with palm trees and cacti – a world away from a traditional European cathedral. Built in 1185, it has strong Norman-Arab features: zigzags and arches glisten in the heat. We spent an extra five euros for the rooftop walk. As I emerged from the winding staircase, a rush of warm air greeted me as I took in the panoramic views of the city. A long, narrow walkway cascades across the cathedral, offering ariel views of the cathedral and nearby coastline.
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As I continued to discover parts of the city, I felt a constant warm embrace. This isn’t a destination that blows up over summer, packed with tourists from every corner of the world, and is then abandoned in winter. No: it’s a slice of an island that lives to embrace people, their families and happiness, regardless of how many visitors they have each year.
‘Strolling through Sicily, Italy’ represents the laid-back elements of travel, one that I had never really considered before. Instead of rushing to plan a jam-packed sightseeing itinerary, I let the atmosphere of Palermo show me where to go. Instead of looking down at Google Maps, rushing to the next ‘must-see’ spot, I focused on the street corners and the people. It is often thought that you have to plan to get the most out of travelling, but Palermo showed me that you can sit back, relax, and discover even more.
