WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
The warm Tuscan sun seeps through the narrow gaps between buildings, its glow illuminating the city’s characteristic terracotta stone. A medieval hilltop town made world-famous by its rustic, timeless beauty, Siena, Italy, is one of Tuscany’s most coveted destinations, made unique by its eclectic mix of classic Italian-ness teamed with a rich, very particular tradition. Upon first glance, it seems almost impossible that such a compact city could house so much culture within its crumbling stone houses; but peel away the layers of Siena, and you will discover an endless depth to life within its walls.
The celebrated Piazza del Campo – a vast stretch of sloping tiles, guiding visitors towards the Palazzo Pubblico – lies at the heart of the city centre. Considered one of Europe’s most beautiful medieval squares, the Piazza del Campo is framed by a neat row of buildings, their colours reminiscent of a deep Italian sunset. If you time your visit right, you may be able to catch the bi-annual Palio di Siena: a quintessential horse race which takes place in the square, each rider representing a different ‘contrada’ (or ward) of the city. The iconic point of the city’s cathedral is just visible from above the roofs of the piazza, its bright marble glinting in the summer sun.
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In a city whose historic centre is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is little wonder that the streets of Siena, Italy, seem to remain unchanged from its medieval roots. Shaded alleys trickle in every direction, with bursts of light and beauty occasionally interrupting the intricate stonework. It is easy, coddled beneath the modest archways, and swept up into the tangled labyrinth of houses, to forget that Siena overlooks a vast stretch of breathtaking countryside: a factor which renders Tuscany one of Italy’s most stunning regions. Remember to peek between the seemingly-impassable rows of buildings, and catch snippets of the rolling Tuscan hills. Come to Siena with no agenda. Here, it pays to get lost; to stumble across little-known osterie and quiet, residential squares, like the Piazza Santo Spirito.
As is the case with every Italian city, food and drink lies at the heart of Siena’s culture. Unsurprisingly, given its lush, abundant surroundings, the city’s cuisine is not short of high-quality local ingredients: in fact, this forms the basis for almost every dish served in this area. Lovers of pasta (i.e. the entire world population) should make sure to taste Siena’s flavourful pappardelle al ragù di cinghiale, or wild boar pappardelle; budding chefs will scour the city’s tiny, traditional botteghe for infamously seasonal aglione – a large vegetable similar to garlic, which is known for the unparalleled flavour it adds to any meal. The best place to sample some of Siena’s most traditional dishes? The Osteria Sotto le Logge del Papa, whose achingly picturesque surroundings, beneath the elegant Logge del Papa, are second only to the restaurant’s menu.
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