WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse

To experience Gothenburg is to experience Scandinavia in all its pastel-toned, crisply elegant authenticity. Although the second-largest city in Sweden, Gothenburg boasts all the charm of a quaint, northern-European town; it is a place where the scent of freshly-baked pastries trails you down the street, where sky-blue trams sail smoothly between terraced houses, and where the pace of city life is just lively enough to be described as ‘vibrant’. What Sweden manages to achieve – in a way that no other countries can truly compete with – is to foster a culture that is modern and forward-thinking but simultaneously traditional and arguably understated.

For these reasons and so many more, Gothenburg is fast becoming a coveted destination for those seeking a short winter getaway, its utopian bubble of Arctic beauty and sleek, aesthetic design appealing to those who crave structure and simplicity in their travel. And with the art of slow travel over the past few years becoming more pertinent than ever before, there is no better location than Gothenburg for your next winter weekend getaway. Here’s why.

PICTURE-BOOK PERFECT HAGA

A vision in soft pinks and dreamy peach tones, Haga is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Gothenburg. Undeniable in its charm, the area is characterised by its neat wooden houses, candlelit cafés, and creative soul, where boutique stores stand proudly beneath gently-looped bunting. Picture-book perfect is the description which most prominently springs to mind upon first sight of Haga; hardy locals wrapped in soft layers of wool settle at the year-round wooden tables which line the streets, faces lit by the glow of the fading afternoon light.

Haga is the concept of fika brought to life. Most famous among its handful of bars and coffee houses is Café Husaren: a historic café celebrated for its enormous hagabullen (cinnamon buns), and renowned also for its unfalteringly elegant interior.

Browse our Haga neighbourhood guide here

THE VIGIL OF SKANSEN KRONEN FORTRESS

Keeping its silent watch over the city, the ancient fortress of Skansen Kronan perches quietly above the Haga neighbourhood. For those seeking an escape from city life, a short walk to the top of Risåsberget hill will provide the respite you crave, each step drawing you further from the rivers of traffic and the bustling crowds below.

It is easy, when you reach Skansen Kronan, to remember just how greatly Sweden is governed by its nature. Beyond the limits of the city, whose buildings are laid out before you like children’s figurines, ribbons of water weave their way through the houses; to the west is the Kattegat strait, speckled with archipelagos. From above, Gothenburg is a patchwork of greenery and stone, the natural world incorporated so seamlessly into the cosmopolitan in a way that is typical of Swedish culture.

AUTHENTIC GOTHENBURG IN MASTHUGGET + LINNÉSTADEN

Anyone hankering to live out their Scandinavian dream, if only for a few days, should make sure to visit the neighbourhoods of Masthugget and Linnéstaden. Largely residential, and populated primarily by university students, these neighbouring areas are often overlooked by visitors, tucked, as they are, behind looming Risåsberget hill and sandwiched above lush, sprawling Slottsskogen park. Here, day-to-day life thrives, the well-organised streets a snapshot of life in Gothenburg.

Flower boxes pour colour over the graceful, wrought-iron balconies which adorn the tall terraced houses, as trams pass languidly through the boulevards below. Here, Brooklyn meets Paris in a fusion of elegance and cosmopolitanism, locals lunching in the streetside restaurants and cafés below. In an achingly New York-esque twist, the intersection of Linnégatan and Nordenskiöldsgatan is the city’s unparalleled brunch spot, proffering eateries such as Brunchoteket and Kafferosten.

Discover Sweden | Stockholm, Sweden: A Photo Journal

THE HEART OF GOTHENBURG: INOM VALLGRAVEN

More widely known as Gothenburg city centre, Inom Vallgraven is the commercial district, where shops, restaurants, and bars gather together like an adoring crowd encircling the clean shapes of the Domkyrkan (cathedral). Surrounded on all sides by wide canals and waterways, Inom Vallgraven is, in fact, an island, its water separating it both physically and aesthetically from the rest of Gothenburg. In-keeping with world-famous Scandi style, Inom Vallgraven is composed of row upon row of fashion and homeware stores, interspersed at regular intervals with bakeries and coffee houses whose fairy lights are just visible through their steamed windows.

One of the neighbourhood’s more unique haunts is the Feskekörka: a canalside fresh fish maket which takes its name from the building’s church-like shape. First opening its doors in 1874, the Feskekörka is currently temporarily closed for construction work, but is no less impressive from the outside. When fully functional, the market is home also to a well-reputed seafood restaurant, which sits on a mezzanine above the market floor.

MORE THAN MEATBALLS: CONTEMPORARY SWEDISH CUISINE

‘Fresh’ and ‘local’ are two buzz words often adopted when describing Swedish food. A cuisine which is quickly growing in popularity the world over, Swedish recipes are often the product of hearty flavours and responsibly-sourced ingredients. But let’s not forget that innovation lies at the heart of Scandinavian culture; fusion foods are a staple in modern Swedish cuisine, marrying the traditional with the cosmopolitan.

The city’s Saluhallen, or food hall, should be your first port of call during a weekend getaway in Gothenburg. Among its high ceilings and soft cream tiles lie a cluster of vendors each offering a taste of true Swedish flavour, as well as a small spattering of international cuisines. Visit the Saluhallen to purchase local delicacies, or choose to dine in at one of their balcony tables.

Across the river and towards the main campus of Gothenburg University is Smaka: a contemporary take on traditional Swedish food. With a menu which boasts everything from knäckebröd and local cheeses to mixed mackerel platters and, of course, meatballs, there is no better backdrop against which to dip your toe into the placid waters of Sweden’s food scene. And if the low-lit interiors don’t draw you in, the wine list will.

Back down in the unassuming streets of Linnéstaden sits an explosion of Nordic-Asian fusion. With an elegant, minimalistic interior that leaves its dishes to do the talking, Björk och Bambu is one of Gothenburg’s most sought-after fine dining experiences for both locals and visitors. Make sure to book in advance if you’re hankering for the zesty-yet-homely tastes of their eclectic menu.