WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
There is nowhere in the world quite like Iceland. Its winter skies are a sweep of pastel pinks and blues, dusting the snow-capped mountains in a gentle crispness that seems almost otherworldly: this, along with the piercing cold, is the first thing that strikes you as you wander the streets of its capital, Reykjavik. With a population of only 300,000 throughout the entire country, it feels more spacious here, the roads and pavements far less hectic than other cities. It is this sense of calm that envelops you as you navigate the compact city centre, marvelling at the low, tin architecture, each house painted a bright colour, popping against the blanket of whiteness. For a country so defined by its awe-striking landscape, it seems fitting that the mountains should be visible from almost every corner of Reykjavik, reminding you that you’re never too far from nature. From atop the city’s only hill sits their cathedral, Hallgrímskirkja, keeping its silent watch over Reykjavik; its iconic, light stone spire is visible from almost anywhere in town.
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COFFEE HOUSE CULTURE
Independent coffee houses punctuate the streets of Reykjavik, each unique in their style. Owing to the widespread coffee culture in Iceland, you can often find people reading, writing, or simply enjoying the hum of conversation around them. Perhaps the most well-frequented coffee house in the city is Reykjavik Roasters, located just underneath the looming cathedral; Mokka Kaffi is a more traditional coffee house, which remains proudly unchanged since its establishment during the 1950s. With Reykjavik’s ever-growing community of artists and writers, these cafes provide a haven for creatives to work on their craft, to express themselves within the right surroundings. Nowadays, waffles are the chosen snack to accompany cups of strong, well-roasted coffee, and can be found on the menu of most coffee houses in the city.
ICELANDIC CUISINE
Identified mainly by locally-reared meat and fresh fish, traditional Icelandic food is simple and hearty. Stews and soups are staples in the Icelandic diet; the most popular place in Reykjavik to sample a traditional lamb soup is Icelandic Street Food. With a number of small, modern restaurants dotted around the city, this company offer their soups served in a bread bowl, with free refills until you’re too stuffed for another bite. Whilst lamb soup is the most popular dish on the menu, their seafood soup is another local favourite. Reykjavik Fish Restaurant on the picturesque Skólavörðustígur is another favourite spot for affordable local cuisine. As the name may suggest, this cosy, nautically-themed restaurant offers a range of fish dishes, all using locally-caught, fresh fish.
The Scandinavian street food tradition is prominent in Reykjavik, with each end of the city boasting a mathöll, or food court. The quaint yet industrial Old Harbour is home to Grandi Mathöll; the large windows of the factory it is housed in face across the port and towards the centre of town. A number of small food trucks frame the outer edges of this food hall, most offering fish dishes and Icelandic street food. Across the city, in the lively Hlemmur neighbourhood, lies Hlemmur Mathöll. Slightly bigger than its seafront equivalent, this food court offers a more international range of cuisines, including pizzas, tacos, and an Italian osteria, alongside a couple of high-end Icelandic options.
No Scandinavian city would be complete without a bakery to satisfy every sweet tooth. With its loud, patterned exterior, and endless swirls of sugary pastries, Brauð & Co. is Reykjavik’s favourite bakarí. Loved for its generously large cinnamon rolls, you can often find people queueing in the bitter cold for one of Brauð’s freshly-baked sweets each morning, as they make their way up the road towards the cathedral. While the breads and pastries they make are inspired by Swedish bakeries, Brauð proclaims to have a proud Viking influence, pioneered by head baker, Ágúst Einþórsson.
ART AND DESIGN
Art and creativity lie at the heart of this small city, whose walls are adorned with vibrant street art, each piece telling its own story. A lot can be discovered about Icelandic culture from the freedom in its artwork, which often depicts moments and folklore from the country’s rich history. It is little wonder that there are a number of art galleries and museums dispersed throughout the city and its surrounding area. Nestled by the Old Harbour, Reykjavik Art Museum has three contemporary and modern art centres across the city; its Hafnarhús location offers not only innovative art collections from celebrated Icelandic artists, but also stunning views across the bay and towards the mountains. Meanwhile, its Kjarvalsstaðir museum is settled within one of Reykjavik’s most beautiful parks, and houses two spacious exhibition rooms and a beautifully-designed, bright café. A 24 hour ticket costs 1840 ISK (roughly 13€) and will grant you entry into all three buildings. Their exhibitions will greatly appeal to anyone seeking to understand more about Iceland and its culture.
Iceland is celebrated also for its delicate pottery pieces, with Reykjavik’s many ceramic stores paying homage to this dainty craft. Among these is Kaolin Keramik Galleri: a female-run ceramic store and gallery displaying works from 8 of Reykjavik’s best female ceramicists. After speaking with Guðný M. Magnúsdóttir, one of Kaolin’s resident artists, I understood immediately the intrinsic role art plays in Icelandic identity. It is not merely a form of expression, but also a way of life here. As Guðný carefully wrapped my unusually-shaped ceramic flowerpot, she explained to me the joys of living in Reykjavik, and the importance of community within the city. I was waved off with a hearty smile.
Continuing the artist’s tour of Reykjavik, it would be impossible not to mention the infamous Sun Voyager sculpture, which overhangs the bay and looks out to the mountains. Designed by artist Jón Gunnar Árnason and erected in 1990, this iconic steel structure commemorates Reykjavik’s 200th anniversary, and is said to represent the discovery of Iceland and new, unchartered land. The glinting surfaces of the sculpture reflect the blues and pinks of the winter sky, almost seeming to blend into the waves behind it.
SIGHTS AND LANDMARKS
Despite its compact size, Reykjavik is home to a number of interesting, architecturally-stunning and unique sights: most well-recognised of these is the Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral, with its somewhat eerily modern design. Building commenced in 1945, finally finishing in 1986: its façade seems to echo the shape of a large pipe organ, with columns of light stone leading up to the tall clock tower. Entry to the church itself is free, with its tall-ceilinged, simplistic design; however, the main attraction of this monument is the breathtaking, all-encompassing view of Reykjavik from the tower. For only 1000 ISK, the lift will take you up the 75-metre-high structure, allowing you a truly awe-striking panorama of the city and the surrounding landscape. During the winter, the tower is open before the sun comes up: for a truly memorable experience, watch the run rise over the mountain peaks and see the city wake up beneath you.
In a similarly impressive feat of architecture, the Harpa Concert Hall sits at the end of the seafront promenade, its thousands of alternately-coloured glass panels glittering in the winter sun. The first concert in this venue took place in 2011, although construction initially began 4 years prior. Now, the building is possibly the most impressive – and definitely the largest – in the city, its interior equally as stunning as the outside. The concert hall hosts a number of events each week, and also includes a restaurant and a cinema screen.
In-keeping with Scandinavian tradition, the Sundhöllin Thermal Baths are the perfect place to spend a relaxing morning in the city. The oldest public pool in Reykjavik, this series of geothermally-heated rooftop pools are beloved by locals, who will while away even the coldest of winter mornings here. The pools each differ in depth and heat, with an indoor pool and a sauna also optional.
