WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse

There’s a soft autumnal light falling onto the vines as I drive across the border from Italy into Slovenia. The road snakes its way tentatively through acres of rusty foliage, neat rows of vineyards bidding their final goodbyes to this year’s harvest. I start to climb, and the terraced hills of Brda climb with me; I’m quickly beginning to see why this region has been dubbed the ‘Tuscany of Slovenia’. My final destination is the hilltop village of Kojsko, the location of impossibly picturesque Peterc Vineyard Estate – my home for the night.

And although this is the first time I have ventured into Brda – and although I’ve only been to Slovenia itself a handful of times – this luxury B&B does feel immediately like home. Peterc Vineyard Estate is the fruit of years of hard work, dedication, and an unwavering passion for the local area. Milena and Uroš are my hosts, although I leave feeling more like an old friend; it is precisely this deep-rooted appreciation for human connection which underpins every aspect of Peterc.

Stepping into the lounge area, I’m struck by the floor-to-ceiling windows which run the entire length of the room, overlooking an endless vista of swollen hills, centuries-old vineyard, and, on particularly clear days, the Adriatic Sea. This sense of indoor-outdoor living is deliberate, allowing visitors to fall into step with the nature around them. As Milena and I sit on the terrace upon my arrival, eating homemade focaccia and sipping locally infused rose cordial, she explains that nature governs the entire region of Brda; unsurprisingly, it is known as ‘Europe’s Green Treasure’, and Peterc goes to great lengths to respect this. In fact, the B&B is an accredited practitioner of Sustainable Tourism, as well as adhering to Slovenia’s ‘Green and Safe’ Responsible Tourism Standards.

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Peterc Vineyard Estate prides itself on its intimacy, the owners taking time to get to know the story of each guest – whether they’re just passing through or laying deeper roots. There are 5 bedrooms available, each boasting a doughy white bed and an uninterrupted view across the vineyards. But despite its compact size, Peterc is surprisingly spacious, with ample room for each guest to make themselves completely at home. During the summer months, many visitors can be found lounging by the panoramic pool area, or settling into one of the low deckchairs; by night, a firepit takes the edge off the cool breeze which winds its way from the sea and through the valley. Peterc is an adults-only destination, making it an ideal getaway for couples, friends, or even solo travellers.

My afternoon is spent relaxing languidly on the terrace of my deluxe ground-floor bedroom, a glass of Peterc’s own Rebula fizzing gently against the disappearing light. The room itself is luxuriously simple, with each detail carefully curated to ensure that guests check their stress at the door; this, as Milena explains to me, is the couple’s most sought-after goal for their visitors. Handmade lavender pillow sprays are available upon request, infused by a local woman in the village; embroidered fluffy robes are almost compulsory attire. The bedrooms have been designed with comfort and indulgence in mind. But to spend any time away from the spellbinding pull of Peterc’s scenic view seems remiss – so I sit outside and watch the sun disappear between the hills.

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That evening, upon my hosts’ recommendation, I make my way over the hill to Ferdinand Winery: a sleek, modern structure whose long-standing tradition renders it one of Brda’s most important wineries. Run by husband-and-wife team Matjaž and Jasmina, Ferdinand Winery is celebrated around the world primarily for its production of Brda’s crowning jewel, Rebula, which has won multiple prizes. The unique geography and geology of this region – with its marl soil, Mediterranean breeze, and fresh mountain air – provides the perfect environment for mineral, full-bodied wines, and the couple’s years of expertise allow them to fully draw upon this. As we meander through the towering silos and squat barrels of Ferdinand’s wine cellar, Jasmina explains to me that all grapes in the region are picked by hand; a true testament to the care and dedication local winemakers apply to every bottle produced in Brda.

I return to Peterc later that evening to a table laden with seasonal delicacies; that night, I dine with Milena and Uroš. There is a sense of instantaneous warmth and familiarity around the table which is heightened by the couple’s palpable passion for good food and fine wine. The charcuterie board is decorated with local prosciutto and handmade chutneys; Milena herself prepares a flaky, cheesy tart which marries perfectly with the peppers and olives, picked in an olive grove just metres from Peterc’s own land. To eat in Peterc’s modern yet quirky dining room is to eat with family: this is just one of the many reasons guests meld so seamlessly with the slow pace of life at this luxury B&B. With the couple’s two cats weaving between our legs and soft jazz music dissipating into the air, we chat and laugh long into the night, before I retire to my room with an antique teapot of locally picked lavender tea.

I am unsurprised the next morning to find I have slept deeply and uninterruptedly; Milena and Uroš work hard to ensure guests a restful stay, even providing ‘Good Sleep Guides’ on the bedside tables, and offering yoga and meditation classes with an expert instructor. Although I’m tempted – and encouraged – to step into the bright foyer in a fluffy robe and slippers, I decide to get dressed, and am greeted by the smiling face of Monika, Peterc’s resident cook.

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Breakfast is served by the large windows which frame Brda’s hills, braided with the green-gold hue of autumn vines. I opt for Monika’s homemade plum cake and freshly baked croissants with local apricot jam, served with a creamy cappuccino. Already, I’m nostalgic at the thought of leaving this place and returning to the ‘real world’. I can’t help but eke out my morning here, wandering slowly through the grounds before ordering one final coffee to enjoy before Peterc’s mesmerising panorama.

But I drive away, swallowed by the hills of Brda, knowing already that I’ll return. To stay at Peterc Vineyard Estate is to leave a little piece of your heart in this unsung corner of Europe: a pocket of Mediterranean beauty set against the dramatic Slovenian mountains.

Honest review based upon PR stay.