WORDS & PICTURES: Nicole Fenwick
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There is so much more to Serbia than Novak Djoković. I stumbled across the hidden gem of Novi Sad completely by accident in the summer of 2018. This city wasn’t on my bucket list but instead, it was pure chance (or a handsome scholarship from my master’s programme) which led me to this hidden gem. I was awarded a scholarship to take part in the Coimbra Group International Summer School on European Multilingualism at the University of Novi Sad but as a student, being thrifty was in my blood and it’s no different when it comes to travelling. Why use a scholarship to travel to one country when you can travel to three countries and four cities in two weeks? Challenge accepted.
The trip got off to a stressful start when my fellow translator and partner in crime nearly missed the flight from Gatwick to Novi Sad, Serbia. I was also cutting it fine due to no fault of my own, but my half-marathon training came into play, so I ran to the departure gate. My friend made it, too – by the skin of his teeth.
A TURBULENT HISTORY
Upon arriving in Novi Sad, Serbia’s second city, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I was already astounded by the abundance of sunflower fields this country had to offer as I peeked out of my train window. You never hear people say that they are going on a summer holiday to the Balkans; it’s still Barcelona, Biarritz or even Bali these days. Unfortunately, people’s first impression of Serbia is not as a typical holiday destination and its history still overshadows what is a charming and genuine country.
For most of the 20th century, Serbia was part of Yugoslavia, and after the fall of communism and the harrowing civil war, newly-formed Serbia appeared on a European map in 2003. The history of this country is something which should never be forgotten, and the wounds of its past are not yet healed. As a history geek, my aim is certainly not to rewrite history, but to give you an insight into a country that is as linguistically diverse as it is historically diverse.
Serbia would not be the country it is today without its history and therefore, I think you should embrace it with open arms to discover everything that this country has to offer. I think it’s fair to say that 2020 challenged our views on life as we know it- so why not take a leap of faith, and head to an undiscovered part of the world?
Novi Sad was named the European Capital of Culture in 2021 and as Serbia is a candidate country for accession to the EU, it’s most certainly going places. As a Brit, I have serious EU FOMO.
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UPON ARRIVAL IN NOVI SAD, SERBIA
When my vintage train pulled into Novi Sad station in July 2018, the communist footprint was clear to see on the immediate architecture, but I knew there was so much more to discover. Never judge a book by its cover. The heavy rain and grey skies also set the scene for a bygone era.
The weather did nothing to dampen our spirits, but a taxi to our accommodation seemed like the better option after a long train journey from Budapest – and to avoid getting our hair wet, of course. We had been there five minutes and we’d already broken the golden rule – don’t use Serbian taxis. I’d heard on the grapevine from fellow travellers that Serbian taxi companies weren’t always the most legit and that they were to be avoided. In the end, we survived, and we arrived at our salubrious digs.
I’m a huge fan of staying in an Airbnb wherever I go in the world; I feel so much more at home in an apartment or house. It’s also an opportunity to stay in a local’s home, and it has more space for the serial overpackers amongst you.
I’m also very partial to the local delicacies which are often a welcome treat upon arrival. Our flat was perfectly located for the university and the city centre. This Airbnb owner had gone above and beyond with a master bedroom with rose petals and candles ready for our arrival; a hilarious misunderstanding and a rookie error when travelling with your male best friend. With a fancy bed for the night sorted, we were ready to explore everything that Novi Sad, Serbia, had to offer: culture, music, delicious food, and not forgetting the local beer.
THE BEST EUROPEAN MUSIC FESTIVAL
We arrived in Novi Sad in time for one of the best major European music festivals…the only problem was I’d never heard of it. EXIT is a music festival that takes place at the Petrovaradin Fortress located on the right bank of the river Danube. The setting is truly spectacular, and you really do feel like you’re on top of the world with the city stretching out into the distance below. You can’t get much better than a music festival in a fortress. It’s almost certainly one for your bucket list. The festival was founded in 2000 and first took place in the University Park as a student movement, fighting for democracy and freedom in Serbia and the Balkans. Studying by day and boogying by night, it was just too well-located to miss. According to Forbes, “Thanks to EXIT, Serbia is a festival hot spot worth your attention” and I wholeheartedly agree.
RIVERBANK BEACHES
Just a stone’s throw from the fortress are the beaches of the Danube which are practically deserted mid-afternoon, and they offer a delightful view of the river. A city break doesn’t usually include beaches and I fear they might be rather cold in the winter, but a stroll along the water’s edge and a few hours spent pondering your next move or picking up your latest read on one of the city’s secluded beaches is time well-spent in spring/summer. Or if you’re a people-watcher like me and you’re looking for some light entertainment, there is often a tai chi class taking place on the riverbank.
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FOOD CULTURE IN NOVI SAD, SERBIA
When I wasn’t studying or enjoying listening to music, I was eating and drinking, and the local cuisine did not disappoint. We purposefully avoided any form of chain restaurant and asked the locals for recommendations. I always find that being surrounded by locals is a surefire way to sample traditional, good quality food. This way you’ll also discover so much more about the local food – and it can’t possibly be boring, as there’s got to be at least one thing on the menu that you’ve never tried before!
One of my favourite meals consisted of a meat stew and grilled vegetables – and boy, were the portions big. If you’re looking for something quick to grab on the move, a Montenegrin and Bosnian friend recommended burek. This was perfect for grabbing a bite to eat on my university lunch break. Think along the lines of a Cornish pastry or your favourite Grandma’s meat pie but flatter, bigger and better. This savoury pie is made from layers of thin filo pastry filled with ground meat, cottage cheese, cheese with spinach, potato, or even fruit. It’s available in almost all bakeries in the city.
The Serbians have also perfected the potato. Often coined as ‘Grandma’s potatoes’, the waiter simply insisted we order this dish. Food is a serious business, and rather than the old English habit of skirting around the question and claiming the whole menu is good, this Serbian chap got right to the point – and he was right! This is a simple dish consisting of mashed potatoes, spring onions, and yoghurt or cream and it goes with basically anything, so eat your heart out.
I simply had to sample the local beer: it would be rude not to. Some of my favourites were from Dogma Brewery in nearby Belgrade. Sipping the local beer with the warm afternoon sun on your face is always a good idea, but coupled with the bar’s very own cooling mist at regular intervals and the option to get your hair cut at the front of the bar was all too convenient. Who knew that you could get a haircut and discover local artisan beers? Maybe this could catch on.
There is so much more I could say about this city but sometimes less is more, and I wouldn’t want to spoil the surprise. I wholeheartedly recommend a mini-break in this city before Serbia becomes an EU Member State and the crowds of people arrive, alongside rising prices. So, if you want to be edgy with your travel choices, why not get ahead of the trend and head to Novi Sad? You might even make a cameo on Serbian TV just like I did, and not many people can say that. I hope I’ve left you wanting more of this hidden gem.
