WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
Dusk settles over the calm waters of Marsaxlokk, Malta: a pocket-sized fishing village that has recently found fame among the island’s larger, more cosmopolitan destinations for its sheer beauty and unique charm. For the first thing you notice upon stepping onto Xatt is-Sajjieda (the main street which hugs the bay) is the sprinkling of boats which decorate the water. But these are not just any old fishing boats. The striking palette of the traditional Maltese luzzu boats, each painted in childlike hues of blues, reds, yellows, and greens, has become iconic, synonymous with Malta and its free-spirited culture. In fact, these luzzu represent Malta in more ways than one: each of these carefully hand-painted boats has been passed down through generations, used by entire families of expert fishermen.
Marsaxlokk today is just as proud of its fishing roots as ever, its location on Malta’s south-eastern coast making it a prime spot for catching fish. True to its reputation, the dark stone promenade which frames the lapping waters of the harbour is often dotted with local fisherman, making the most of the dwindling daylight to attempt their final catch of the day. These are then sold at the Sunday market which runs for the entire length of the bay: an unmissable introduction to Maltese food culture, which is so much richer than you may expect.
The best seafood in Marsaxlokk can arguably be found at Filippo’s: a family-run Sicilian restaurant whose candlelit tables spill out into the harbour. Ask for the catch of the day and trust your waiter; served with a traditional Maltese take on Sicialian caponata and delicious sautéed potatoes, this simple yet mouth-watering dish is a perfect way to sample the freshest local produce.
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Marsaxlokk is Malta’s not-so-hidden gem. As the village begins to slowly make its way into guidebooks and travel magazines around the world, it’s no longer unusual to hear a chorus of languages as you pick your way slowly along the promenade. Yet Marsaxlokk’s local culture is anything but watered down. With a great deal of pride (and a hint of stubbornness), this destination has lost none of its tradition, remaining, at its core, a humble residential fishing village. It is precisely this lack of pretention that gives Marsaxlokk, Malta, its undeniable charm.
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