WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
It would be easy to claim that summer is Ljubljana’s best season: this year hailed Europe’s Greenest Capital, the city is awash in shades of emerald during the warmer months, with willow trees trailing their ethereal fingertips into the surface of the river. And whilst summer looks undeniably good on the Slovenian capital, Ljubljana is picturesque in any season, its pastel-toned houses lending themselves just as easily to bronzed autumn canopies as to the crisp light of springtime.
But woven into its picture-perfect tapestry is a thread of rebellion, a glimmer of something more than its surface-level beauty. Its alias is the City of Dragons; these mythical creatures can be found peppered across Ljubljana, protecting its people and embodying courage, wisdom, and power. Above the old town, 900-year-old Ljubljana Castle keeps dutiful watch over the rooftops below, their terracotta patchwork interrupted by bursts of green.
Ljubljana is charmingly small, with only 280,000 inhabitants – a few days is all you need to feel at home among its airy cobblestone streets. But what it may lack in size it makes up for in personality: the languid pace and fairytale aesthetic of Ljubljana has secured its growing reputation as one of Europe’s most beautiful destinations. Find out why in our Ljubljana city guide.
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Stay in the City: Vander Urbani Resort
Boutique hotel Vander Urbani is hard to miss; settled proudly at the very heart of Ljubljana, just metres from the river, its reputation as one of the city’s most coveted places to stay is wholeheartedly deserved. From the outside, this unique hotel seems almost traditional in its manner, housed within one of Ljubljana’s characteristically elegant, dusty-pink buildings. But inside, Vander Urbani is a vision in futuristic sophistication. Low lighting is streaked with flashes of neon, the shapes soft yet modern. Each room is kitted out with a high-res TV, large, squashy bed, and mirrored wardrobe, with bathrooms so beautiful you’ll barely want to use them.
Vander Urbani is known throughout Ljubljana primarily for its restaurant, whose tables spill out onto the riverside street. Vander Haus offers contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a fine dining twist; their menu includes dishes such as oysters with spicy aioli, paprika and lemon octopus, and platters of Slovenian cured meats and cheeses. The true star of the show, however, sits a little higher than the rest of the hotel: above the city’s cluster of colourful buildings, you can find Vander Urbani’s rooftop pool. With a view overlooking the gentle currents of the river and a poolside deck resplendent in its simplicity, there is no better vantage point from which to enjoy a glass of Slovenian white as the sun sinks below the mountains.
Prices for a room in Vander Urbani start from around €100 per night.
Down by the River: Old Town Ljubljana
Life in Ljubljana’s old town is relaxed yet vibrant, the buildings tumbling towards the river like an adoring crowd. Narrow streets are peppered in green, with alleyways winding their way around ancient churches. At the river’s apex, as it bends softly to the east, is the central market: a sprawling plaza dotted with wooden stalls. Selling a mixture of fresh fruits and vegetables, delicious Sloevnian honey, and hot street food, as well as jewellery and other crafts, locals and visitors alike convene in the market square – even if just for a quick tipple from one of the many enotecas which encircle the area.
Cankarjevo nabrežje is better-known as the pedestrianised street which fits snugly along the curve of the river. Perched along it are some of Ljubljana’s liveliest bars and restaurants, frequented as much for their picturesque waterfront views as for the quality of their dishes. You may just find a queue at Pop’s Place: Ljubljana’s most celebrated burger joint. Wash down with a local craft beer for an authentic contemporary Slovenian experience. If burgers don’t take your fancy, then try sleek Asian fusion eatery Tokyo Piknik, or sample a more traditional Slovenian diet at Vizija Gostinstvo.
Mestni trg runs parallel to the river, sheltered by uninterrupted rows of terraced buildings. Coffee lovers should make time for a trip to Cafetino: a speciality roastery offering blends from around the world, to be enjoyed at one of their streetside tables. By day, Pritličje too offers delicious coffee both indoors and out; by night, it morphs into one of the city’s most-visited bars, boasting everything from beer on tap to expertly made cocktails. But Mestni trg is more than just bars and cafés: artisan shops and independent booksellers share the limelight, lining the cobbles with their wares. Whether you’re looking for beautiful homeware in Gud Shop, rummaging through the vintage clothing rails at Moje Tvoje, or leafing through the new releases in bookstore Knjigarna Beletrina, make sure to spend a morning wandering the length of this street.
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Street Food Flavours in Trubarjeva Cesta
Ljubljana may be small, but its food scene is vast and eclectic. Away from the polished alleyways and fine-dining restaurants of the old town lies Trubarjeva cesta: a street teeming with personality. By night, this neighbourhood comes alive, with rustic eateries and tiny street food haunts casting light and music onto the dimly lit, artfully decorated buildings. This part of the city is a true melting pot of cultures, where a variety of ethnicities congregate in a celebration of diversity. Namaste Indian Express is an authentic restaurant serving delicious curries, roti, and other Indian dishes; KSF is a compact Korean street food eatery; Abi Falafel serves quick Middle Eastern bites as well as larger sharing platters. Spend an evening wandering the length of Trubarjeva cesta to experience a side to Ljubljana you may never have expected.
Fancy a Nightcap?
Back in the old town, there is no shortage of bars and clubs in which to order a quick nightcap. Budding mixologists should head straight to Kolibri: an elegant cocktail bar whose outdoor seating is staggered down the gentle slope of one of Ljubljana’s narrow alleyways. Beneath the keen gaze of the castle, guests can choose a tipple from their abundant menu; alternatively, tell the bartender what you like, and they’ll whip up a speciality drink for even the most whimsical customers. Craft beer connoisseurs should head a few minutes south of the old town to Lajbah, whose understated décor leaves space for their beer to do the talking.
Metelkova Art Centre
Beyond the limits of old town Ljubljana, sitting beside the tracks of its railway station, is Metelkova Art Centre. The endlessly illustrated walls and fantastically repurposed sculptures in this neighbourhood are testament to its fascinating history. Once a military base for both the Austrio-Hungarian and Yugoslav armies, the centre today is (somewhat conversely) a place for liberals, artists, activists and more to live and work rent-free. Metelkova acts also as the city’s most important music venue, championing diversity, freedom, and creativity in its events.
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Despite flying under the radar for many years, Ljubljana is fast becoming one of Europe’s most beloved destinations. Whether you visit for its vibrant nightlife or for the lush beauty of its surrounding nature, a trip to the Slovenian capital is guaranteed to leave you feeling a little brighter.
