WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
You’d be hard-pressed, at first glance, to guess at which country Trieste finds itself in. Tall, elegant terraces of Germanic houses are punctuated by the domed church roofs of Eastern Europe; the decidedly musical cadence of Slovenian conversation echoes from the courtyard walls of quaint Mediterranean squares; chaotic hordes of shiny Vespas zip through the neatly organised grid of streets. Perhaps Europe’s truest example of a melting pot, Trieste’s charm lies in precisely this blend of cultures and lifestyles.
Perched on the Croatian-Slovenian Istria peninsula of the northern Adriatic Sea, Trieste is both a literal and figurative footnote in the pages of Italy’s history; the city passed from the hands of the Habsburg Monarchy and the Austro-Hungarian Empire to Germany, Yugoslavia, and, finally, to Italy in 1947. Because of this, Trieste remains steadfastly rooted to its unique culture, proudly upholding the traditions and crafts that have contributed to the intricate layers of its personality. The most widely-celebrated of these layers? Trieste’s coffee culture.
Considered by many as the gateway between eastern and western Europe, Trieste’s port is among the most important on the continent when it comes to international trading and influence. In fact, elements of the city’s connection to its maritime roots are still palpable today in its industrial portside architecture, its annual ‘Barcolana’ regatta, and even carried on the briny winds of the ‘bora’: Trieste’s infamously biting winter breeze. It was this influx of inspiration from across vast oceans that first inspired the city’s avant-garde movement, quickly marking Trieste as a global hub for literature, philosophy, and music.
Trieste’s elegant coffee houses were born, then, to fulfil a need. Each of these haunts once served as meeting points for the city’s academics – whose alumni include the likes of James Joyce, Umberto Saba, and Sigmund Freud – as well as maritime workers and merchants in search of refuel and respite. The polished, wood-panelled walls of each coffee house preserve centuries of history within them, each cup of coffee recounting the story of faraway lands and years of hard work and dedication. Even today, those same coffee houses – almost unchanged in both atmosphere and décor – act as meeting points for students at the city’s university. It is perhaps this sense of consistency throughout such a turbulent history that has led Trieste to idolise so greatly the simple act of enjoying a coffee.
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Because here, coffee is not just coffee. It is woven into the DNA of every ‘triestino’, its characteristically hearty aroma melding with the crisp, saline air. Nestled firmly into the family history of every local is someone who has worked in the city’s still-thriving coffee industry, from port workers unloading sacks of coffee beans to bar owners and artisan roasters. Coffee in Trieste reaches far beyond its surface-level attraction, and is not merely something to be quickly consumed during your morning commute. The technical ability, skill, and intensive training behind every single cup is sacred, and not to be taken lightly.
Standing almost arrogantly at the very centre of striking Piazza Unità d’Italia, Caffè degli Specchi is one of Trieste’s most-visited coffee houses, its wrought-iron tables spreading confidently across the vast expanse of the square. To step inside is to step back in time, the dark wood and red velvet detailing an homage to the café’s long-standing roots. Established in 1839, it is said that Caffé degli Specchi (‘The Café of Mirrors’) is named after the age-old tradition of engraving important happenings and events into windows and mirrors by the intellectuals and mariners who met there. Whilst the original engraved surfaces are no longer there, the coffee house’s mirrored walls today are a testament to Trieste’s unyielding respect for its origins.
Just a five-minute walk along the seafront will guide you from Caffé degli Specchi to Caffé Tommaseo: Trieste’s oldest coffee house. Dating back to 1830, Caffé Tommaseo is a vision in crisp tablecloths, wide marble bars, and delicate architectural embellishments, painted an eggshell white. Here, the sophistication and grace often associated with the coffee houses of Vienna and Budapest are laced into the furnishings, morning light glinting from the gold-trimmed detailing of the crockery. Some Saturday mornings, Caffé Tommaseo hosts a traditional jazz band, aiming (and succeeding) in recreating the timeless elegance of the 1920s and 1930s for their diners.
To truly immerse yourself into Trieste’s exclusive coffee culture, it’s not enough to simply head to the bar and order yourself a cappuccino. So deep-rooted is the city’s passion for coffee that it actually boasts its own language when it comes to ordering your daily caffeine fix. Asking your waiter for a ‘capo in b’ will reward you with a large caffè macchiato served in a glass; a ‘gocciato’ will earn you an espresso with a splash of steamed milk, whilst a ‘nero’ will land you a classic espresso in a cup. Often, your morning coffee will be served alongside a small complimentary glass of rich hot chocolate. For a truly authentic experience, order also a generous slice of Austrian Sachertorte.
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Whether it’s down to the drink’s indubitably positive effect on Trieste’s economy, or perhaps to the way it has inspired generations of writers, artists, musicians, and philosophers, coffee is to be savoured, not rushed. A visit to one of these coffee houses is, for locals, a vital part of their daily routine; a moment to take for oneself among the noise and confusion of everyday life.
