WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
Edinburgh is a city best-known for its dark, Gothic architecture, winding cobblestone streets, and vibrant, creative energy. The Scottish capital sets itself apart from other UK destinations in this way, its traditional pub scene a melting pot for friendly locals and enchanted visitors, who flock to the city in search of its rich history and unique setting. But away from the well-trodden paths, the throngs which gather upon the Royal Mile and the chaos of the Princes Street shoppers, lies a little-known secret: Dean Village. Nestled into the banks of the Water of Leith, this riverside hamlet seems a world away from the rush of city life and the whir of traffic which echoes through the centre, just miles away.
Located within the affluent West End, Dean Village is rustic, traditional, but by no means run-down. Following the elegant houses which frame Lynedoch Place will guide you north toward the Dean Bridge; but, whilst it may be tempting to stand atop this bridge and enjoy the gushing water beneath you, the real beauty lies down an inconspicuous path to your left, just before setting foot onto the bridge itself. Bells Brae – a quiet, narrow path flanked by old stone walls – is the alleyway which connects Edinburgh’s West End to the quaint cluster of houses which makes up Dean Village. Wander across Dean Path to cross the gently flowing river, making sure to look around you; 19th-century houses seem to spring up from among the trees, haphazardly stacked into the rocky hills which rise from either side of the water.
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Follow the large, dark cobbles of Damside as it opens into the turquoise footbridge, marking the beginning of the Water of Leith Walkway. From here, the view is unlike any other in the city; you are surrounded by nature, the noise of traffic totally masked by the trickling river. In fact, the scene is so far-removed from anything within the city itself that it could almost be situated within the rolling hills of a remote Alpine village, the chalet-esque architecture interrupted only by the characteristic dark brickwork which so pervades Edinburgh. To your left is the iconic façade of Well Court, with its striking clock tower and geometric windows. A World Heritage Site, this building dates back to the late 1800s, and was commissioned by Sir John Findlay, the historic owner of The Scotsman newspaper.
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Continue along the southernmost bank of the river towards Miller Row, where the Water of Leith Walkway grows calmer, quieter, encased between walls of lush greenery. Above are the towering columns of the Dean Bridge, sheltering a compact, well-photographed house recognised by its lone turret; this walkway is entirely unique, its charm almost eerie and somewhat mystical. The curious structure of St Bernard’s Well can be found just a short walk from the arches of the bridge, with its eight pillars encircling a statue of Hygeia: the Greek Goddess of Health. Edinburgh is, in fact, peppered with these references to Ancient Greece, often hailed as the ‘Athens of the North’ – this owes perhaps to the city’s deep-rooted literary and philosophical history.
This section of the walkway, so overrun with nature and unbeknown even to locals, is bookended on one side by Dean Village, and on the other by Stockbridge: a neighbourhood celebrated for its independent boutiques and coffee roasteries. Every Sunday, the area hosts the bustling Stockbridge Market, bringing together some of the city’s most unique vendors and celebrating Edinburgh’s thriving food community. For a truly authentic experience of the Edinburgh coffee scene, spend an afternoon in cosy café Lovecrumbs on St Stephen Street.
