WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
Home to the Moomins, heavy metal music, and, of course, Santa Claus, Finland is eclectic to say the least; its capital, Helsinki, perfectly encapsulates this wacky charm. Framed by the dense forests which make up 70% of Finland’s landscape, and overhanging the Baltic sea, Helsinki is unique in its setting, with nature seeping in between the cracks of the austere, concrete architecture. With around 650,000 inhabitants, Helsinki is the largest city in Finland, although feels uncrowded. Its wide, cobbled streets are interrupted by its iconic tram tracks, whose forest-green carriages slice through the sharp corners of the city’s elegant buildings; Helsinki is a true fusion of the Soviet and the Scandi, owing to its turbulent history and its geographical location, sandwiched between these two clashing cultures.
The metropolitan heart of Helsinki can be found in Kamppi: a neighbourhood which lies to the west of the city centre. It is within this organised cluster of streets and squares that Helsinki comes to life by night, each of the pastel, terraced houses home to a sleekly-decorated restaurant or bar. Among these is Putte’s Bar, which serves delicious, Neapolitan-style pizzas with a range of unusual toppings and flavours, to be washed down with a local craft beer. A short walk along Kalevankatu lies a pedestrianised alley which, come Friday and Saturday evenings, is packed with young partygoers, spilling out from the neon-framed doors of nearby haunts, drinks sloshing in-hand. By day, the streets quieten, dotted instead with shoppers and commuters, heading for the interlocking tram tracks of nearby Mannerheimintie. It is here that you should head to find transport connections to far-flung corners of Helsinki.
Dubbed the city’s edgiest, most up-and-coming neighbourhood, Kallio is located in the north-eastern corner of Helsinki, separated from the centre by a series of lakes. The tone of the city changes drastically here, and, with it, the architecture: gone are the pastel hues and pretty, graceful details of Töölö’s houses, replaced instead by a more sombre, Soviet-inspired feel. The slate-grey streets are dappled with boutiques, bars and coffee houses, including Frida Marina: an urban treasure trove of lush fabrics, vintage pieces, and delicate trinkets. A short walk from here, down Kaarlenkatu, will lead you to the compact Karhupuisto garden, recognised by its iconic red granite bear statue. During the summer months, this garden acts as a vibrant, lively hangout spot for friends to catch up over a cold beer. The park itself is encircled by a collection of small breweries and restaurants, making this area one of the most sociable in Helsinki.
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COFFEE CULTURE
It would be remiss not to mention Helsinki’s thriving coffee culture, owing to the country’s unconceivably high consumption – Finland drinks the most coffee of any country in the world, with each person averaging eight or even nine cups a day. It is little wonder, then, that the streets of Helsinki are laden with cosy, Scandi-style cafes and coffee houses to quench this insatiable thirst for caffeine. Most famous among these is undoubtably Café Regatta, which sits perched at the banks of lake Seurasaarenselkä. A breathtakingly picturesque wooden cabin, whose red and white slats are reminiscent of Santa’s sleigh, Café Regatta is one of the city’s most beloved haunts. In the winter, order a hot chocolate and squeeze yourself into one of their miniature window seats.
Back in Kallio, Café Cardemumma is a cosy yet modern breakfast spot. Often frequented by students and remote workers, the café serves a range of delicious pastries and heartier meals, as well as Finland’s characteristically strong coffee. During the summer, make use of their outdoor space and watch the trams rattle along Helsinginkatu. For delicious sweet treats, Finnish company Kanniston Leipomo have a range of locations spread across Helsinki; their bright, sugar-dusted display cases will have your mouth watering, whilst their whitewashed, modern décor will invite you to sit and enjoy a book at one of their window-front tables.
NATURE AND THE SEA
With its tranquil lakes and endless, rolling forests, Finland’s landscape is dominated by natural beauty. This is evident even within the most urban neighbourhoods of Helsinki, where green spaces and parks are spattered across the city centre, its unusual layout determined by the ebb and flow of the Baltic Sea. Nature is perhaps most abundant in Helsinki’s Töölö district, which trails down the west coast of the city, snaking along the banks of the peaceful Seurasaarenselkä lake. Home to Helsinki’s largest green space, as well as the short stretch of sand which makes up Hietaranta beach, Töölö feels a million miles from the rush of urban life which prevails in central Helsinki. Stroll through lush Lapinlahti, before wandering north towards the celebrated Sibelius Monument: a collection of steel pipes melded together in an impressive wave, paying homage to the esteemed Finnish composer Jean Sibelius.
Within the centre, just a stone’s throw from the iconic cathedral, lies the city’s South Harbour: a promenade which wraps around Helsinki’s main port. Both the Kauppatori market square, with its spread of small craft stalls, and the infamous Allas Sea Pool, can be found here, overlooking the lapping waters of this lively harbour. When the weather is warm, al fresco bar Kauppatorin Laituri offers one of the most beautiful views across the water and back towards the teal domes of the cathedral. West of the harbour are the elegant Esplanadi gardens, whose elegant terraced houses and well-manicured lawns feel almost Parisian in their delicacy. Kappeli restaurant sits within the gates of this garden, with grand, floor-to-ceiling windows proffering unbeatable views across the port. For boat connections to Tallinn and Stockholm, come to this harbour.
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EXTRAORDINARY ARCHITECTURE
Upon first sight of the enormous, imposing white cathedral, it comes as no shock to discover that this architectural masterpiece was built as a tribute to one of the Russian tsars. Drawing inspiration from two of St Petersburg’s own churches, the neoclassical building is the city’s most recognisable landmark. The cathedral towers above the neat buildings which frame Senate Square, keeping watch over the organised cluster of Scandi-style houses which lead down to the water. Inside, the cathedral is no less awe-striking; decked out in the decidedly modern way which is typical of Nordic churches, the décor is simplistic yet powerful, with low-hanging chandeliers illuminating the deep red carpets of the aisles. A gold-plated organ sits above the church entrance, within the eaves of one of the five perfectly-rounded domes.
Across the city, in an almost dystopian setting, Kallion kirkko looms over Helsinki’s Kallio neighbourhood. A grey, granite structure, interspersed with splashes of pastel green, the church is a far cry from the elegant crispness of Helsinki Cathedral, although is equally impressive. The abrupt brusqueness of its exterior is contrasted by its light, airy interior, which is beloved city-wide for its booming acoustics. From the tall, geometric tower, which perches 94 metres above sea level, you can make out the northern coastline of neighbouring Estonia, as well as the sparkling, signature domes of the city’s cathedral.
DISCOVER FINLAND
The Finnish Museum of Natural History, located around the corner from the city’s central train station, is an ideal location for those who are curious to learn more about Finland’s unique culture and diverse history. Contained within the walls of a grand, repurposed school building, the regal, winding staircases lead visitors from floor to floor, where each wing of the building is home to a different exhibition. With sections dedicated to Finnish nature and conservation, bones and animals, and the history of life, an entire afternoon can be spent gliding along the marble floors of this museum, marvelling at the beautifully-constructed displays.
English-speaking visitors should make sure to use one of the museum’s audio guides.
