WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
Amongst the rows of quiet houses, doused in their warm pastel shades and gentle, earthy tones, locals wander the streets of Gothenburg’s Haga. This incredibly picturesque neighbourhood seems almost to have leapt from a children’s picture book, with strings of fairy lights creating a canopy above the cobbles. From any direction you enter Haga, a banner floats in the air above you, welcoming you in a manner synonymous with the unwavering friendliness of its residents. Occasionally, peeking through the dusky red roofs of their traditional landshövdingehus-style houses, Skansen Kronen fortress is visible, looming above the city from its tall, grassy hill. One of the only parts of Gothenburg not to be interrupted by canals, Haga is entirely unique in its atmosphere, sheltered from the buzz of the city’s more central areas.
The Swedish concept of fika – a cosy coffee break to be enjoyed with friends – makes up the foundation of Haga. Every corner seems to house a café, each differing in their décor but united by their sense of warmth and familiarity. Even during the winter, wooden outdoor seating is set up, dappling the pavements with blanket-strewn chairs and squashy, coloured cushions. Most visitors will head straight for infamous coffee house Café Husaren, which is celebrated worldwide for its unbelievably large hagabullen buns. The man at the table across from me chuckles as I appear with my enormous cinnamon bun, before chatting in the easy, welcoming way that seems to be ingrained into the city and its residents. Sophisticated Cafeva is another favourite spot, located within a traditional, stone-coloured house; Café Kringlan is its neighbour, equally charming in its aesthetic, both inside and out.
Scandinavian Dream: A Winter Weekend Getaway in Gothenburg
Shopping is as much a part of life here as coffee, each street peppered with independent boutiques, vintage and antique stores, and colourful florists. A number of upmarket Swedish high-street brands can also be found within Haga’s labyrinth of houses. As expected within a Scandinavian city, interior design stores are incredibly popular, and are unsurprisingly sleek and stylish. Trinkets and gift stores are easy to come by, interspersed by classic toy shops and artisan produce stores. In an area so closely intwined with its own history as Haga – much of which dates as far back as the 19th Century – it seems fitting that chaotic yet dainty antique stores would prevail, their swaying wooden signs charmingly old-fashioned.
Climbing the steep stairway to Skansen Kronen will provide you with a comprehensive view of Gothenburg, and of the different neighbourhoods which make up this diverse, modern, yet traditionally-rooted city. As one of the oldest areas, Haga stands out even from above, its compact braid of streets so architecturally unique from its surrounding neighbourhoods. The short wooden houses are built upon a layer of brick, in order to subvert historic rules that dictated buildings in this area could not exceed two floors. It is this unusual architectural style that renders Haga so recognisable, giving the buildings their chocolate-box quality. Deliberately, there are no hotels or places to stay within Haga itself: an attempt to retain the tranquillity and tradition which defines the area.
