WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
The first thing that strikes you upon arriving in the elegant city of Ferrara, Italy, are the colours. Everywhere you look, the buildings are doused in shades of rusted orange, peachy pink, and dusky yellow, the lazy afternoon light basking the streets in an otherworldly glow. Time seems suspended, here, within the ancient warren of the city centre, people moving almost in slow motion; although this perhaps has more to do with the characteristic blanket of heat which cloaks Ferrara during the summer months. There is a quietness broken only by the gentle tinkle of post-lunch coffees being ordered, of birds’ wings flapping across imposing Piazza Trento e Trieste. Stepping into Ferrara’s city centre will transport you into the set of a vintage Italian film, where elderly women tread slowly to the fruit market and bright Vespas buzz their way through shaded alleyways.
Despite this air of idyll, and its total embodiment of la dolce vita, Ferrara is little-known when compared to its larger neighbour, Bologna. But those yearning for an authentic taste of the Emilia-Romagna region should make sure not to overlook Ferrara, whose relatively compact size only renders the city more enchanting. Surrounded almost entirely by a ribbon of picturesque gardens which hugs the medieval city wall, Ferrara’s historic centre rightfully deserves its accolade as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Narrow cobblestone streets framed by rustically beautiful houses periodically open out onto wide, graceful squares and courtyards. At Ferrara’s heart lies the Castello Estense, characterised by the fountains which encircle it; its Romanesque cathedral is known for its unique row of portici which border one of Ferrara’s most bustling squares.
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Whilst these monuments are undeniably impressive, the true beauty of Ferrara, Italy, lies within the quiet alleyways: tucked away in traditional botteghe, or hiding within its bars, restaurants, and cafés. Because if Italy were a house, Emilia-Romagna would doubtlessly be the kitchen – and Ferrara is a testament to the region’s culinary prowess. In fact, Ferrara is home to the world’s oldest wine bar: the modestly charming Al Brindisi. Settled behind the striking façade of the city’s cathedral, this enoteca has remained true to its roots, with relics and memorabilia lining the wood-panelled walls, its décor a hybrid of old-timey tavern and the comfort of your grandmother’s kitchen. Dating back to the early 1400s, Al Brindisi takes as much pride in its local wine selection as it does in its achingly traditional menu, offering charcuterie platters and appetizers as well as a range of hearty dishes typical of the region.
Perhaps owing to Ferrara’s university, and the sizeable student population which lives there, the city is beginning to dip its toe also into contemporary culture and cuisine, with modern cafés and eateries springing up like daisies among the ancient buildings. If you’re on the hunt for a quick bite, then the clean wooden interiors and crispy, warm paninis of Schiaccia are the answer. For regional specialities in a bright, modern setting, make sure to head for Cusina e Butega: a restaurant offering the best of Emilia-Romagna’s gastronomy. You cannot leave Ferrara without sampling their infamous cappellacci di zucca al ragù – a filled pasta stuffed with pumpkins, served with a Bolognese sauce. After dinner, make your way towards Via Carlo Mayr: a narrow street flanked by terracotta buildings housing a thread of low-lit cocktail bars such as vibrant LUX Gin & Wine and upmarket Apelle.
It doesn’t take long for the streets of Ferrara, Italy, to feel a little like home. With a sense of tradition and authenticity that is somewhat diluted in Italy’s larger cities, Ferrara is the espresso to Bologna’s caffèlatte: a condensed, intensely flavourful shot of the region’s deep-rooted culture. Make sure to pay a visit to Ferrara during your next trip to Italy for a true snapshot of life in Emilia-Romagna.
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