WORDS & PICTURES: Imogen Green
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Before visiting the city, one would assume that Nice’s coveted location on the Cote d’Azur would render it home to something on the finer side of French cuisine. In reality, traditional French food will always reside at the heart of Nice, but an overriding sense of youthful innovation also pervades the culinary landscape there.
From the in-demand spot for healthy food on the go to a youthful, Michelin-starred restaurant doing things their own way, discover a few of the top culinary spots in our Nice restaurant guide.
PANIVORE
Gourmet sandwiches on the go
Fresh, local, and organic produce is what sets Panivore apart from the rest; it’s the place where you’ll find queues of hungry locals waiting to refuel. From the Anna Marian sandwich (smoked tempeh, chickpea, red cabbage, and vegan tartar sauce) to the Tristan sandwich (focaccia from Mama Baker, smoked trout, nitamago egg, fresh herb cream, and spinach shoots) there is something on the menu to suit all dietary requirements. Needless to say, they make healthy eating in the city accessible and abundant in fresh ingredients. Look out for their bright blue panelling on the corner of Rue De Massingy!
KIOSQUE CHEZ TINTIN
A local institution
Situated at the centre of the Place du Général de Gaulle sits Kiosque Chez Tintin: a family-run business and local institution. They are a historic small-scale kiosk serving Nice specialities such as pan-bagnat (classic Niçoise salad in sandwich form) and pissadiliere (a local caramelised onion tart), where everything is made fresh in the small hours of the morning. Early arrival is advised if you want to sample authentic Nice cuisine from a long- standing family foodie spot. It’s an ideal place to enjoy the Mediterranean sun whilst sampling the culinary traditions that make the city so special.
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LES AGITATEURS
Michelin-star dining, reimagined
Les Agitateurs takes what you would expect from a Michelin-star culinary institution and breaks it down. While from the outside, it looks like a textbook fine-dining French eatery, inside the façade drops, the room full of jovial chatter and clinks of glasses. Unlike other Michelin-starred establishments, Les Agitateurs operates with a sense of ease.
There are two six-course tasting menus on offer: one places locally sourced vegetables at centre-stage, and the other focuses on meat dishes. Everything is paired with biodynamic and natural wines from the surrounding area, which perfectly complement whichever set menu you decide upon. Be prepared to taste unexpected delicacies and creations unlike anything you’ve tried before, such as a carrot sorbet with creamy Thai sauce or beetroot and berry meringue with a sharp vinaigrette. Everything is small, delicate, and prepared with care, whilst still showcasing how creativity can be expressed through food.
ROUGE
Bustling Mediterranean brasserie
Tucked just behind the dazzling Port Lympia lies Rouge, and from the moment you enter you can tell it’s a local favourite (so much so that getting there early is advised as it gets busy quickly!) Choose from a variety of Mediterranean sharing plates, created with fresh local produce. Alongside your small plates, choose a natural wine from their made-to-share menu. From salmon tartare to swordfish it’s a great spot to chat and drink amongst Nice’s residents.
LA MERENDA
A quietly regal eatery
La Merenda is the spot that everyone wants to get into, and holds a quiet regality amongst the other culinary establishments nearby. But don’t be fooled by its simple exterior; inside it’s a gourmet gem. Headed up by Dominique Le Stanc, a culinary icon (and ex-Negresco head chef) everything is prepared in an open micro-kitchen at the back of the restaurant with each ingredient collected each morning from the Cours Saleya market.
There is no phone number for the restaurant which means everyone must book via Instagram, and no credit or debit card option means you can only pay in cash. Its meu is simple and classic, and pays homage to the producers of the local area by letting the ingredients shine without too much fuss or bravado.
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CAFE FINO
The bright, breezy brunch spot
Looking for something modern where you can stop for brunch and explore Nice’s coffee culture? Then Cafe Fino is the (arguably Instagrammable) place to go. Inside, a mixture of neutral tones and natural plaster line the walls, while touches of wicker and wide windows let in lots of natural light. Modern and vibrant, this haunt offers a variety of brunch options, from tartines, saladsm and traditional brunch fare, as well as artisan coffee and smoothies.
FARAGO ON THE ROOF
A social hub overlooking the city
When you step out onto Farago on the Roof, instantly, you quickly understand why it is one of Nice’s most popular rooftop spots. It offers a complete 360-degree view of the city, and is a perfect place to bathe in the Côte d’Azur’s famous orange-hued sunsets. Speciality cocktails are served alongside fresh small plates crafted by chef Antonio Stanzione, with the entire menu designed to be shared amongst friends. Think caramelised aubergine with thyme, feta cheese, pine nuts, and mint, or their much-loved courgette flower fritters with garlic, tomato, and basil coulis. Throughout the season, new and up-and-coming local artists and DJs perform a mix of jazz, pop, and soul music to accompany the delicious food, creating a social hub overlooking the city.
