WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
As the wind whips your hair through the open car window, look beneath you; the glittering Tejo river flashes through the red steel flooring of Lisbon’s Ponte 25 de Abril. You are on the way to the Costa da Caparica, one of the city’s most beautiful local beachside towns, located just a short 20-minute drive from Lisbon’s Alcântara neighbourhood. As you reach the far side of this striking bridge, the hum of city life seems to drop away behind you. Here, the landscape is rustic, rural, and dominated by swells of wild greenery, interspersed with the white houses of tiny towns and villages. City dwellers escape to the Costa da Caparica when life in Lisbon becomes overwhelming. In Caparica, the pace is decidedly slower, the bars and cafes more modest, and the beaches rugged. Here, at the shores of the Atlantic, there is nothing but the roaring of the waves.
Bordered by rolling dunes and gently-waving grasses, the Praia de São João is Caparica’s largest beach, beloved particularly by avid surfers. Lounging in its soft, white-gold sand, gazing up at the towering palm trees, silhouetted by the bright midday sun, you could almost be bathing in the rays of a tropical island; but, glancing to your right, Lisbon’s shores are just visible in the distance, pulsing beneath a haze of heat. The beach’s proximity to the city seems entirely contradicted by the nature which engulfs it – but it is this precise contrast that renders Caparica so unique. During the summer months, the Praia de São João is populated by Lisbon locals craving the salty sea breeze. In winter, the long stretch of sand is largely deserted, save for the bravery of a few lone surfers; wandering along the beach in these colder months can free you from the stresses of the bustling Portuguese capital, just 15km away.
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Yet the beaches of Caparica are not entirely untouched. Half-buried within the swells of the sand dunes are two well-camouflaged beach bars, whose whitewashed walls and bright, airy decking leave the beauty of the Praia de São João unspoilt. Furthest north is Pé Nú Beach Club: a bar set atop a flight of stairs constructed from driftwood, whose wide terrace overhangs the beach itself. Pé Nú’s generous seafood platters and refreshing iced coffees are the perfect antidote to a day spent in the sun, providing you with a vantage point from which to watch the mesmerising movement of the surfers on the Atlantic. A short walk along the beach is Clássico Beach Club, which springs to life as the sun begins to dip beyond the horizon. With its extensive cocktail menu and sundown DJ sets, Clássico is one of the top destinations for Caparica’s otherwise somewhat subdued nightlife.
In-keeping with the style of many small Portuguese towns, Caparica is a vision in bright white houses and intricately-tiled pavements. Despite its beachside location, Caparica is populated primarily by locals, decidedly intimate and community-led in its feel. It is here, within the traditional, understated restaurants that line the streets, that you can sample true Portuguese cuisine. Three extremely Portuguese dishes include bitoque, bacalhau, and grilled sardines: simple yet delicious. For something a little more exotic, try Los Cubanos: a relaxed eatery offering generous helpings of flavourful Cuban cuisine.
Hidden among the quiet residential streets tucked just behind the dunes of the Praia de São João lies 7 Waves Surf Hostel. As the name suggests, this pint-sized hostel acts as a haven for keen surfers, offering early-morning surf lessons with the charismatic owner, boards and wetsuits for hire, and a bar and BBQ area to be used by any of the hostel guests. The building’s bright red walls and ample outdoor space make 7 Waves a communal place to meet like-minded people who enjoy the art of slow travel. Take a dip in the pool or wander to the nearby beaches before relaxing in the hammock for a lazy evening of beer-drinking and stargazing.
