WORDS & PICTURES: Hannah Foster-Roe
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The pretty pastel appeal of Prague is both subtle and striking all at once. Clashing eras and architectural styles come together in a collage that defies description, creating something gorgeously and quintessentially European. Streets, squares and synagogues sing in ice-cream shades of pale yellows and pinks; whilst across the waters of the Vltava river, Baroque gardens boldly bloom – boasting views of marmalade roofs, mint-chocolate church domes and a hundred spires. This gilded city, nestled in the belly of old Bohemia, can be fairly inexpensive to visit whilst giving off the air of a luxurious getaway. It enjoys balmy summers and biting winters, each bringing a unique beauty to the battered cobblestones. Made up of several distinct districts with their own individual character and charm, the thing that really unifies Prague is its spirit: resilient, romantic, and raucous.
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STARÉ MĚSTO – PRAGUE’S OLD TOWN
The medieval Old Town represents a vision of Prague that most people think of first. With its Gothic towers and candy-coloured tangle of terraces, it is inarguably the plumpest jewel in the city’s crown. The soul of this quarter echoes within the Old Town Square, where contemporary cultures of tourism and street performance meet antiquarian elegance to create a bristling energy. The Church of Our Lady before Týn throws her imposing shadow as the Astronomical Clock prepares for a fifteen-show day. The oldest of its kind that still tocks, Prague’s Astronomical Clock always attracts an audience – especially around every hour between 9am and 11pm, when the mysterious ‘Walk of the Apostles’ takes place.
In addition to its notable historic features, the Old Town is a thriving hub of shopping and stylish hangouts. Weave through the whimsical side-streets and discover opulent boutiques, vintage dealers and quirky delights such as a chocolate museum hiding in their coils. Through smoky-sweet clouds emitting from nearby kitchens appear endless options for morning, noon and nightly entertainment. From rooftop bars to micro-breweries and fine dining to food halls, travellers in the Old Town will be faced with the enviable dilemma of deciding where to go, and when! Sample the intimate eateries of the Dlouhá – a road leading away from the Square – where Naše Maso cooks fresh produce from its in-house butchery to order, and Bánh Mì Makers build the most satisfyingly stuffed Vietnamese baguettes. For dinner, the unpretentious and cosy atmosphere at Divinis makes its vibrant Italian-inspired dishes doubly enjoyable.
With the authorities cracking down on bad behaviour and binge-drinking, partying in Prague’s Old Town isn’t quite as wild as it used to be. This is for good reason, as in its place are far more meaningful and sensory offerings to experience; try beer tasting at Pivovar U Supa, for instance, or an aperitif with a view at Terasa U Prince. Choosing to stay in the Old Town for a weekend break would mean all of this, and more, being right on your doorstep. There are plentiful hotels to suit a variety of tastes and budgets, as well as hostels and apartment rentals.
JOSEFOV – THE JEWISH QUARTER OF PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC
Josefov is set between the Old Town Square and the banks of the river. Its contrasting palette of neutrals and brights paints the impression of a storybook scene, so perfect is its outward presentation. Pristine avenues are dotted with the work of exclusive designers, while the buzz from local bars seeps out onto the pavement and bicycles sweep past in a blur. Hard, then, to have to imagine how this neighbourhood was forged out of such immense suffering and oppression. Josefov became a walled ghetto in the late-eleventh century, after the first of many violent massacres against the Jewish people of Prague. Following a period of gentrification at the turn of the twentieth century, most of the original area and its architecture was destroyed. That which survived emerged from the Second World War relatively unscathed, but not by sheer accident. Hitler deliberately chose to preserve Josefov, declaring it “a museum to an extinct race”. Contrary to this intention, it was instead reborn as a museum of human resilience; a celebration of precious Jewish culture and community. It is a museum of life. The monuments belonging to the Jewish Museum in Prague – such as the Spanish Synagogue and Old Jewish Cemetery – are open to visitors throughout the year, forming one of the most complete studies of Jewish heritage known on the continent.
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NOVÉ MĚSTO – THE NEW TOWN
Wrapped around the Old Town of Prague is its New Town, where trams rattle over bumpy highways and modernity strides into focus. Crowds from all over the world converge at Wenceslas Square, the commercial heart of the city, to bask in the ornate grandeur of the National Museum. Its parallel boulevards packed with big-name clothing brands and fast-food chains could make you doubt the cultural credentials of this district, but you just have to search a little harder for them…
Everywhere you go in Prague, there are nods to a widely-renowned former resident – the literary maestro, Franz Kafka. A commemorative statue of him stands in Josefov and over in the New Town, a giant rotating bust shimmers over a courtyard outside a mall. David Černý, who dreamt up this piece, is a famed Czech sculptor with many artworks displayed in various corners of Prague. Innovation is the main name of the game in this district, demonstrated in the mind-bending structure of The Dancing House, designed to mimic the silhouette of foxtrotting partners Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. For any traditionalists, more classical points of interest include the National Theatre, New Town Hall and the Jerusalem Synagogue, which mixes influences from Moorish Revival and Art-Nouveau.
MALÁ STRANA – THE LESSER TOWN
Although connected to the New Town by Jiráskův Bridge and to the Old Town by Charles Bridge, Malá Strana is an entirely different beast altogether. Its translation may suggest otherwise, but this quaint and quieter side of the Vltava is certainly not lesser by nature. Here is where the pace truly relaxes; hopeless wanderers drift along leafy green paths, arm-in-arm, as their fascination with the captivating surroundings makes them slow. Remnants of the Renaissance reflect in muted tones of stucco and neatly organised townhouses, whilst the funicular up to Petřín Tower braces for another arduous climb. Tucked away in an unassuming nook of the neighbourhood, the John Lennon Wall groans under the weight of a history that has seen everything from the Velvet Revolution to Extinction Rebellion. Overrun with vivid graffiti and messages, the Wall has become a symbol of peace and political activism in the years since the beloved musician’s death.
Malá Strana is the gatekeeper of the castle district, but be sure to stop for a bite at Café Savoy before hitting that trail. A step back in time greets you here, courtesy of the dining room’s Art-Deco ceilings and chandeliers. Understandably, demand for tables is high, so book in advance to avoid disappointment. Alternatively, Hergetova Cilhelna serves up hearty flavours of regional cuisine with all the exquisite flair of a Michelin-starred restaurant. The panorama from their heated terrace is also, in my opinion, the best in the city.
As you begin the ascent to Prague Castle, pause awhile in the Vrtba Garden. These palace grounds, despite being approximately 300 years-old, are immaculately maintained and absolutely magical to behold. With a soft serenade of birdsong and the aesthetic pleasure of its symmetry, Vrtba Garden is a regal oasis that teases a taste of the real-life fairytale awaiting at Hradčany.
HRADČANY – THE CASTLE DISTRICT OF PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC
Perched atop a hill above Malá Strana, Hradčany is the one of the largest castle complexes in all the world. The walk from the Lesser Town charts a punishingly steep gradient that, at times, feels relentless. If it weren’t for the picturesque setting along the way, it would certainly be a challenging hike. Depending on the time of year, there could be a seasonal market selling either restorative pints of ice-cold Pilsner or cups of mulled wine when you reach Hradčany Square.
Monarchs, emperors and presidents have all made residence at Prague Castle over the last twelve centuries, and it remains one of the Czech Republic’s most popular tourist attractions. Cutting a gloomy figure around which the whole district pivots, the dark and dramatic St. Vitus Cathedral erupts like an angry stalagmite, shrinking all other buildings in its wake so that they resemble fondant fancies. Outside the chambers and wings of the castle, the neighbourhood is a cultural tapestry of palaces, churches, museums and galleries. Of these, Schwarzenberg Palace has the most disarming façade to gaze upon. Covered from top to bottom in sgraffito tiles, a decorative technique involving the upper layer of plaster being scratched away to reveal a new colour beneath, the effect is just divine. It is possible to lose yourself amidst the sprawling expanse of Hradčany for the best part of a day. But when the exploring is over and you are weary from adventure, follow the vineyards down to the riverside park for one last glimpse of burnt-sienna skyline.
