WORDS & PICTURES: Zoe Andreas
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Chania harbour’s dusty marigold facades turn vivid at twilight once the sun’s harsh glare trades with the moon’s soft glow. In a postcard-perfect scene, horse-drawn carriages parade the waterfront, posing against Crete’s most iconic lighthouse. Locals smoke their cigarettes, people-watch and catch fish, while those with instruments make the promenade their stage, serenading passers-by with bouzoukis, accordions and tambourines. The carnival of colour and charm continues inland where, in the summer months, labyrinthine old town backstreets offer refuge from a sweltering sun. Head to Zampeliou street’s “Romantic Stairs” zone for the prettiest souvenirs. Seek out pieces of handmade pottery or fine art, and gift yourself a copy of Nikos Kazantzakis’ famous novel on one of literature’s most self-indulgent characters: Zorba the Greek.
Pause for a bite of cheese pie from Glymidakis or head to the bakery, delicatessen and wine bar Pallas Philocaly, with its award-winning aesthetics, just steps away from the harbour. For heartier fare, fill your belly with a sharing platter of meze from vegan café Pulse. When the sky darkens and the stone streets wear their golden gown, tuck yourself away in a cosy candlelit corner of The Well of the Turk, where you can feast on Greek, Turkish and Middle Eastern flavours beneath rainbow-coloured lanterns. Fish lovers ought to venture beyond the historic walls to Thalassino Ageri. Here, seafront blue and white chequered-cloth tables with dark wood chairs is a vision marred only by plastic bottles of antibacterial gel (thank you, ‘rona). Book ahead to watch a pink and purple sunset as you dine with your feet in the sand.
Stray further from the old town’s criss-cross lanes into a treasure trove of flora and fauna: The Botanical Park & Gardens of Crete lies but a half-hour drive from the heart of Chania. Its 2.5km walking trail is encircled by lush mountains and crowned with dappled light. Spend a day sauntering its winding paths, lingering at its palm-fringed lake, and indulging in regional recipes from its foliage-covered terrace restaurant. Try the boureki, a Chania-born bake of potatoes layered with courgette and mizithra cheese.
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When you’re ready to trade endless green vistas for endless blue, hit the beach. There are plenty within walking distance of the old town, but those most striking require a car or bus to reach. If steep and rugged cliffside paths don’t cause you sweats of fear, you may wish to brave the descent to Seitan Limania’s distinctive zigzag cove, popular with both goats and humans. From the top of the rock, those below appear like a scattering of sweets, spreading into a teal and azure ombré ocean. Alternatively, Elafonisi is a slice of rose-tinged paradise much easier to access. Wander beyond the sunbeds and thatched brollies to where, at low tide, a strip of sand joins Elafonisi to its idyllic islet. Find a spot to lay your towel in the dunes, away from the crowds, claim a jutting rock or sit on the pillowy seabed — there’s no better place to soak up the shimmering scene than the shallow sea, immersed in water so clear you wouldn’t want to risk a tinkle.
