WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
There are few destinations in Italy which boast the striking colour palette of Caorle, Veneto: a quaint seafront city on the picturesque Venetian lagoon. Whilst other beachside locations in this region of Italy cater blatantly to their youthful, carefree clientele with endless rows of rectangular buildings – each housing nightclubs, beach bars, and souvenir shops – Carole has stubbornly fought against this particular marketing tactic. Instead, Caorle’s visitors are drawn by its vibrant personality, in many ways reminiscent of neighbouring Venice. But while Venice’s beauty is rugged and careworn, its crumbling buildings only adding to the city’s charm, Caorle has received significantly less footfall over the years, rendering it almost an untouched vision of what Venice may once have been. Every shaded corner of Caorle hides a narrow alleyway dotted with tiny bars and traditional restaurants, populated almost exclusively by locals.
This region of Italy is known for its steadfast loyalty to tradition, but also for its willingness to accept and embrace change. Caorle, Veneto, is, in ways, the embodiment of this mindset, where contemporary fashion boutiques sit comfortably beside the striped awnings of rustic osterie; elderly locals leisurely roam the streets, passing gaggles of beach-bound teenagers; luxury hotels along the seafront promenade are set against the colourful splatter of the city’s medieval architecture. Deep in the warren which makes up the city centre, tiny piazzas are connected by thin alleys, their vivid oranges, yellows, and blues resplendent in the midday sun. Nestled into one of these characteristic squares is the well-loved and aptly-named Trattoria al Mare, which offers a selection of Caorle’s best seafood and fish dishes. Choose from any of the artfully-scattered tables which frame the bustling Rio Terrà delle Botteghe and enjoy one of Veneto’s most widely-celebrated specialities: the Aperol Spritz.
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Whilst Caorle’s historic centre comes alive during the spring and summer months, its unique stone walkway which hugs the gently-lapping waves of the lagoon is inarguably beautiful at any time of year. Dispersed among the large boulders – which protect passersby from the sea’s harsh spray – are a collection of sculptures and carvings by international artists, who have been visiting the city every two years to add to the ‘Scogliera Viva‘ (Living Reef). Following this row of beautifully-crafted sculptures will lead you, in fact, towards what is perhaps the city’s most iconic monument: the Madonna dell’Angelo church. Built during the 1700s, this light stone church, which overlooks the lapping waves of the Adriatic from its solitary peninsula, has since become an important religious landmark. Separating Caorle’s long stretch of sandy beach from its more manicured promenade, the tiny church and its accompanying bell tower are open to visitors from sunrise to late at night.