WORDS & PICTURES: Valeria
Connect with Valeria on Instagram @dramatically.expatic
Bologna is often overlooked by tourists, and – must I say it? – that is a huge error if you want to see the real Italy. There’s no surprise the city is affectionately called “La Dotta, La Grassa, La Rossa” (The Learned, The Fat, The Red) for its fascinating history closely linked to the oldest university in the Western world, for the centuries-old gastronomic traditions, and for its unique, predominantly red colour palette. Want to know more about what this city has to offer? Keep reading to find out!
This is not a typical guide around the city that you can find elsewhere. You’d probably be advised to see Piazza Maggiore, visit St Stephen’s Basilica and climb up the Two Towers – and while these places are all worth seeing, I’m here to share with you some alternatives that only a local (or someone who’s lived in the city for as long as I have) could know. So ditch your guidebooks, and be prepared to experience the hidden parts of Bologna!
SAN PETRONIO BASILICA
Climb up to the panoramic terrace of San Petronio basilica, the 6th largest church in Europe with a complicated but captivating history. The construction of this basilica began in 1390, and in the 16th century, it hosted the coronation of Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor. The most peculiar thing about the place is its appearance: the facade of the church is clearly unfinished. According to legend, the people of Bologna wanted to build a cathedral that would exceed St Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican by size, but when the Pope found out, he stopped financing the construction and the church was left incomplete.
After a visit to the basilica (entrance is free, but make sure you have your shoulders covered to be allowed inside), you can either use an elevator or climb up to the panoramic roof terrace – it offers the most spectacular view of Bologna. As a bonus, you’ll get to avoid long queues even in the busiest season, since this place is not touristy at all.
Address: Main entrance is from Piazza Maggiore, but the entrance to the terrace is from Piazza Galvani n. 5, right behind the church.
Cost: the church has free entrance (but you’ll have to pay 2€ if you want to take photos); a panoramic terrace ticket will you cost 5€ (3€ for ages 10-18 and over 65, free entrance for children under 10 years old).
CREMERIA CAVOUR
Try the gelato at Cremeria Cavour. While Italy is known as the country of gelato, Bologna has the best gelato in the whole country – you have to try it yourself to see! Cremeria Cavour offers a huge variety of authentic flavours and follows homemade recipes. Prices start at 2,70€. You can enjoy your gelato on the go, sitting in the green piazza just in front of the Cremeria, or you can head straight to our next point of interest – Piazza San Domenico, just 2 minutes walk from the shop.
Address: Piazza Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour n. 1/d/e.
Cost: 2,70€ for a small portion of gelato (2 scoops), 3,20€ for a medium portion (3 scoops).
Explore Italy with us | Siena, Italy: A Photo Journal
PIAZZA SAN DOMENICO
Visit Piazza San Domenico, one of the most beautiful, albeit lesser-known piazzas of Bologna. The peculiarity of this place lies within the tombs of Glossatori – 13th-century notaries and law professors at the University of Bologna who were granted the honour to be buried in one of the central piazzas of the city. The tombs were notably constructed all around the place, and not inside the Church of San Domenico that dominates the piazza.
The church itself is a magnificent example of medieval architecture, but as you enter (it’s free) you’ll find the artworks by some of the most famous artists from that period – like Niccolò dell’Arca and Nicola Pisano – as well as works by Michelangelo himself. The shrine of Arca di San Domenico contains some statuettes created by the great master during the brief period he spent in Bologna.
Address: Piazza San Domenico n. 13.
Cost: Free.
MERCATO DEL QUADRILATERO
Get lost in the Mercato del Quadrilatero: a medieval food market in the heart of Bologna. The market streets were left untouched for centuries, and today it has a vast choice of bottegas that sell local food (mortadella, prosciutto, parmigiano…), as well as small osterias where you can taste local wines accompanied by taglieri (local charcuterie boards). A special point of interest is Osteria del Sole: the oldest osteria in the city (it dates back to 1465) where you’ll be offered a selection of local wines, but beware: no food is served there (although you can bring something you’ve bought at the market), and you might need to book in advance!
Address: Vicolo Ranocchi n. 1.
Cost: While costs at the market may vary depending on the product, a glass of wine at Osteria del Sole will cost you 2-3€.
BOTTEGA PORTICI
Have a cup of coffee on the terrace of Bottega Portici, overlooking the Two Towers. You’ll get to taste one of the best coffees in the city (especially recommended to all cappuccino lovers!) and will be able to take breathtaking shots with Bologna’s main attraction. People-watching in the peaceful atmosphere of that place is an added bonus, and if that’s not enough to convince you, let me also mention that Bottega Portici has moderate prices, despite their prime location.
Address: Piazza di Porta Ravegnana n. 2.
Cost: A classic Italian espresso will cost you 1,30€, while the price for a cappuccino is slightly higher – 1,80€.
THE PORTICOES OF VIA ZAMBONI
Take a walk beneath the porticoes of Via Zamboni, in the heart of the university area. Bologna’s porticoes (or portici in Italian) have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and over centuries have become a distinct feature of the city. Can you guess what their original purpose was? With the growth of the university, the student population of the city was growing as well, and medieval homeowners were quick to find a solution that would help the new students find a place to live, and, at the same time, would become a profitable business – they simply added rooms to their houses, thus creating long lines of porticoes (there are currently 38 km of them!).
On your walk, make a stop at Palazzo Magnani, at the historical seat of Unicredit Bank, which puts on display their collection of local art from the 1500s – entrance is free, and you’ll be surprised by the hidden beauty of this private art gallery. Make sure you visit their website to check the opening hours in advance.
Address: Via Zamboni n. 20.
Cost: Free.
More from Valeria | On Moving (Unexpectedly) to Bologna
VILLA GHIGI PARK
Explore the Park of Villa Ghigi, a magnificent park situated in the hills overlooking Bologna. It is located just a short walk from the city centre and you can easily get there on foot – no need to take a car or bus ride, since the park area begins within the city limits, and runs up the hills. It is a peaceful place, surrounding the former 1600s villa, and it is perfect for a picnic with breathtaking views. Take a break from the city and immerse yourself in nature without actually leaving Bologna!
Address: Via San Mamolo n. 105 (entrance from Giardino Norma Mascellani).
Cost: Entrance to this public park is free, and in case you choose to get there by car, you’ll find free parking nearby.
SANTA MARIA DEI SERVI CHURCH
Check out Portico Dei Servi, built in the 14th century as an addition to the magnificent church of Santa Maria Dei Servi, one of the most beautiful churches of Bologna. The portico and the courtyard is a perfect place for all photography lovers, while the church itself often hosts concerts of classical music – don’t miss out on this opportunity!
Just across the road, you’ll find Museo Davia Bargellini, set in the 17th-century palace and displaying a rare collection of industrial art, as well as the interior of a 1600s Bolognese apartment. Entrance is free, so enjoy yourself and discover what the everyday life of local people 400 years ago looked like!
Address: Strada Maggiore n. 43 for the church, Strada Maggiore n. 44 for the museum.
Cost: Entrance is free for both museum and church, check the cost of the tickets for each separate concert.
MARSALINO
End your day with aperitivo at Marsalino, a small and cozy bar in the heart of the ex Jewish Ghetto (which has recently become a very popular area among university students). Enjoy your drinks (as well as small pizzettas offered for free with your drink, but you can order more food from the menu), admire the view of the medieval streets, and immerse yourself in the bubbling atmosphere of a Bolognese evening! Since the bar is really small, booking your table in advance is highly recommended.
Address: Via Marsala n. 13.
Cost: A glass of fine wine will cost you around 4/5€, while aperol spritz will cost you 6€.
FACTS AND CURIOSITIES
Did you know that Bologna is not only the most studious city in Italy, but is also quite superstitious? Here are some curious superstitions that you might want to follow (for your own good!):
• If you’re a student visiting Bologna, DO NOT climb up the Two Towers – the local superstition says that if you do so, you might never graduate!
• The same goes for Piazza Maggiore – DO NOT walk across it diagonally if you want to graduate soon!
• If you’re visiting the city with your other half, it is NOT recommended that you climb up the porticoes leading to the San Luca sanctuary together – according to urban legend, the unfortunate couple that makes the tiresome journey might not end up together!
FOOD & CUISINE
And if you’re visiting Bologna not only for sightseeing but also to see why it was nicknamed “the fat”, you’d want the proof, right? If so, you might want to check out the following places:
• Eat the best pizza in Bologna at Zia Margherita
• Try the most versatile taglieri (meat and cheese charcuterie boards) at La Prosciutteria
• Enjoy a fancy Bolognese dinner at Ristorante Teresina
• Indulge in meat love in a medieval atmosphere at Osteria Broccaindosso
• Discover a very Bolognese street food at Mò Mortadella Lab
• Find a tasty vegetarian lunch or dinner at Clorofilla
• Arrange an elegant wine tasting at Medulla Vini
Whether you’re visiting Bologna for its historical and cultural landmarks, for its incredible food scene, or in order to feel like you’re 18 again (no matter how old you are) – this city will not disappoint. It will welcome you like an old friend and will make you want to stay. Because once you’ve visited Bologna, believe me, you will keep coming back for more.
