WORDS & PICTURES: Jenni Flett

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“Guete morge!” I proclaim to my host as I arrive at the central train station of Basel, Switzerland. Having just grasped the differences between Swiss German and German, I momentarily swell with pride at my bilingual prowess. That quickly dissipates as soon as I have to say anything more than two complete sentences. I was to pet sit her three gorgeous cats in her apartment in an area close to Basel Zoo, providing me with the unique opportunity to spend a long time in Basel living life like a local.

A TRUE CITY OF CULTURE

Basel, Switzerland, (or Bâle, as it’s known locally) is a tale of three powerful and influential countries. It neighbours France and Germany, and this convergence of cultures gives Basel an edge over other European cities. An international community is drawn here by the city’s prestigious university and work opportunities. It’s also a city driven by the arts, but which prides itself in its traditions and unique identity. Tourists to the city are often day-trippers, but there’s so much to experience in Basel that makes it much more than just the gateway to Switzerland.

GREEN AT HEART

Spanning the city are green walkways, parks, and leafy streets which lead to the city centre. In autumn, the streets and buildings are an incredible array of yellow, orange, and red, with vines that wrap themselves elegantly around houses and lampposts.

On foot, you take in the city’s story, from its mishmash of pan-European architectural style – stop by the unique Art Nouveau St Paul’s Church on Steinenring – to its medieval city gates, the most impressive of which is the Spalentor. Modern Basel is also on display from the comfort of its interlocking green paths. Visit the Hammering Man by Jonathan Borofsky, a 13.5m tall kinetic sculpture on Aeschenplatz, or the Border Triangle on the Rhine, complete with a sleek bar and terrace for river views.

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TIME AND TRADITION ON THE RIVER

The Rhine river flows through the city centre, connecting the three nations, and served as an important trading hub before hosting some of the world’s greatest thinkers (Erasmus, Nietzsche, and Jung) at Basel University. On Barfüsserplatz is the historic old town which entices the senses in autumn with the Basel Herbstmesse (Autumn Fair). On Munsterplatz (the main square) take the opportunity to ride the Ferris wheel and try Basel sweet treats such as Mässmogge (hazelnut-filled sweets) and Rahmtäfeli (Swiss fudge). During the winter here, you can get into the holiday spirit at Basel’s traditional Christmas markets.

Besides seasonal festivities, the old town offers a varied itinerary from walking tours, to museums and impressive buildings. The Papermill (Basler Papiermühle) has a fully working watermill, and a quaint adjoining café. It gives a real idea of what working in a paper mill was like fully functional. Basel’s most famous landmark is the Basler Münster (Cathedral), with its colourful tiled rooftop and a gorgeous courtyard that looks out across the Rhine.

Further into town is the vibrant Marktplatz, a local food market and where you can find the impressive Rathaus (Town Hall): a striking red building with playful frescoes. Unique museums not to miss include: The Tinguely, showcasing Switzerland’s most prolific artist; Toy Worlds Museum, which started life as a private bear collection; the Kunstmuseum, which houses the oldest public art collection in the world.

Before you reach the iconic Mittlere Brücke (Middle Bridge), walk down the cobbled Rheinsprung to take in Basel’s very own White House and Blue House, former ribbon factories. Although both are functional government buildings, they are worth seeking out on a trip to the city for their grandeur and pretty courtyards.

NORTH OF THE RIVER

On the north bank of the Rhine is the area of Kleinbasel. If you want to know where the locals hang out, it’s right here. It once had a rather unsavoury reputation, but it’s now the multicultural hub of Basel, with eateries, bars and independent shops. In June, Kleinbasel is home to Art Basel, a world-renowned annual art fair which attracts an art-loving public and celebrities! On sunny days, locals sunbathe and swim in the river on the Kleinbasel side and enjoy the old town views.

On your return to the city, if you want to cross the river in style, jump on the “Wilde Maa”, “Leu”, “Vogel Gryff” or “Ueli” ferries using the current of the river to swing by rope to the other side.

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A HIATUS FROM BASEL, SWITZERLAND, CITY LIFE

Just outside the city, is the Rehberger-Weg trail which is 5km in length and runs from Riehen, Switzerland to Weil am Rhein, Germany. Along the way are artworks by German artist Tobias Rehberger, which educate you on local history and stories from the area and provide a breather from the bustling city with countryside views and quiet trails. This route will also take you to the Vitra Design Museum and past a local vineyard, where you can stop for a glass of wine!

There are beautiful gardens and parks all around the city, which are easily accessible on foot using the green path network. Any local would recommend the Botanical Gardens at the University of Basel – an oasis in the city’s heart. Merian Garden is another botanical garden set against the backdrop of an 18th-century villa on the city’s outskirts.

SUPPORTING BASEL’S LOCALS

Walking around the city, I would see many businesses sporting red hearts with ‘Support Your Locals’ written on them—what a fantastic way to connect local businesses across the city. Instantly, you can pick out which cafes, shops, and even markets are independently-run and know that you will be giving back to the local economy in a meaningful way.

In support of Basel’s campaign, here are a selection of wonderful independents:

Markthalle Basel

Ask any local: this is where to come for just about anything you could want. The market is indoors, close to the main train station, and provides permanent spaces for local businesses. In the middle is a food hall serving up international cuisine, but you’ll also find a greengrocer, bars, coffee shops, restaurants, a bakery, and gelateria. They also hold community events and open as a club some evenings. A big plus is that the food is affordable!

Radius 39

Brunch should always come with a side of supporting local businesses, and Radius 39 provides just that. They only use local products on their menu, and at weekends they serve up delicious brunches with lots of homemade elements on the menu. Their adjoining shop also hosts events to promote local products, and offers information about the area.

Cargo Bar

Near the Rhine River is a bar that promotes local artists and bands with exhibitions and music nights covering all genres. Cargo Bar is a great place to relax with an affordable glass of vino or beer.

Kleinbasel

Going back to the hip side of Basel, Switzerland, there are lots of small shops, including bookstores, boutiques, and vintage shops, which make it the best place to go shopping – especially for a nice souvenir if you’re visiting.

Flea Market Petersplatz

Every Saturday, an extensive flea market occurs here on Petersplatz, with many a bargain waiting to be found!