WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
I have often waxed lyrical about Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Its unique location, striking nature, and long-standing traditions left me immediately spellbound, yearning to trek through its dramatic mountains and wander the meandering streets of its pint-sized towns. Much like the other Italian regions, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is fiercely proud particularly of its hearty cuisine, which draws inspiration from nearby Austria, Slovenia, and Veneto; the area’s osterie are joyfully suspended in time, serving dishes which have steadfastly sat on their menus for generations.
But Friuli-Venezia Giulia – and the world as a whole – is becoming ever more international, with far-flung cultures beginning to integrate more than they may perhaps have expected. And despite being a relatively small city (with around 100,000 inhabitants), Udine has slowly begun to embrace this concept. Although homely trattorie and vibrant pizzerias still dominate Udine’s gastronomic scene, restaurants from around the world are trickling onto the city’s streets, bringing the exciting flavour combinations and unique traditions of their cultures.
From steaming bowls of ramen to the spices of East Africa, discover just a handful of Udine’s most-loved international eateries in our Udine restaurant guide.
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SAMURAI RAMEN
Traditional Japanese Cuisine in a Contemporary Setting
Tucked beneath the porticoes of Via Vittoria Veneto, many would be surprised to find compact Japanese restaurant Samurai Ramen in this textbook Italian street. But what Samurai lacks in size it easily makes up for in personality; its music spills out onto the cobbles, the buzz and chatter of its clientele lingering in the night air. Recently remodelled Samurai is a vision in industrial chic, splattered with colour in both its artwork and its food.
Although most famous for its abundant bowls of ramen and lightly spiced curries, Samurai’s menu is also adorned with smaller plates and appetizers which give customers a taste of Japan’s vast culinary palate. Without fail, I start always with the pork gyoza, served with a soy sauce dip, before ordering their Katsu-style fried chicken curry with rice. As portions here are decidedly generous, try ordering multiple appetizers and one curry or ramen bowl to share – either way, you won’t go home hungry. A chilled bottle of Asahi beer each is the perfect accompaniment to our meal.
Japanese cuisine is so much more than just sushi, and Samurai Ramen is on a mission to prove this.
Samurai Ramen, Via Vittorio Veneto 28A, 33100 Udine • @samurairamenudine
MILLE E UNA NOTTE
Authentically Arabian Flavours
It’s hard to miss Mille e una Notte: located in Piazza Antonini, this Arabian eatery’s tables are peppered across the square, their outdoor-indoor heated area sitting elegantly at its centre. One of Udine’s most popular restaurants, to step inside Mille e una Notte is to enter a Moroccan souk or a Turkish pazar: gold detailing, ornate lamps, and plush velvet sofas make up the décor of this unique restaurant, where diners settle comfortably to enjoy the rich flavours and heady aromas of their meal.
Paying homage to the kaleidoscope of cultures which make up North Africa and the Middle East, Mille e una Notte’s menu is large and varied, beloved also by vegetarians for their extensive vegetable- and pulse-based dishes. The mezzeh sharing platter is a must, and can be customised to include whichever small dishes you’d most like to try. My holy grail appetizers are the stuffed vine leaves, cheesy sambusak pastries, and, of course, their impossibly creamy hummus.
My go-to main course is their ‘Fatira’ wrap, with grilled vegetables, spiced meat, and soft, melted cheese, served with harissa potatoes; but it would be remiss not to mention the traditional chicken and vegetable tajine, served in their eponymous terracotta pots. Even if you don’t have space for dessert (if you do, make sure to try their mixed pastry tasting selection) then you simply cannot leave without sampling their signature Arabic coffee – its aromatic cardamom aftertaste is equally stunning as the characteristic copper pot it’s served in.
Mille e una notte, Via Gemona 14, 33100 Udine • @_milleeunanotte
More culinary recommendations in Friuli-Venezia Giulia | Oblò Food & Drinks, Pordenone
RAGGIO DEL SOLE
A Culinary Journey to the Horn of Africa
Don’t be fooled by the modest appearance of Raggio del Sole: its simple yet homely décor allows the food to speak for itself. This eatery was originally inaugurated in 2015 (although in a different location) and has remained a well-loved staple for Udine’s gastronomic community ever since. Raggio del Sole celebrates the rich, underrated flavours of Ethiopia and Eritrea through its traditional menu, which includes chilled bottles of St George Beer – Addis Ababa’s oldest and most popular brew.
Located in Udine’s more residential south-eastern side, Raggio del Sole is not your average eatery, to be stumbled across as you wind through the streets of the city centre; instead, this restaurant is a sought-after destination for Udine’s adventurous foodies. Don’t expect a run-of-the-mill experience here – food is to be shared with loved ones, and Raggio del Sole’s menu has been artfully designed with this in mind. In fact, you’re unlikely even to receive cutlery during your visit, as their curry-style dishes are served with a spongy injera flatbread which is torn and used to scoop up the various meats, vegetables, and pulses.
Meat lovers will drool over Raggio del Sole’s extensive menu, which boasts lamb, beef, chicken and more, all served in East African sauces and spices like Awazé; but the restaurant has made sure to cater also to their vegetarian and gluten-free customers with specially prepared dishes. I opt always to leave my culinary fate in the expert hands of Raggio del Sole’s owner, who makes sure to bring a selection of dishes which best represent Eritrean and Ethiopian cuisine – I find there’s something thrilling about having no idea what you’re eating. However you decide to experience this restaurant, you certainly won’t leave disappointed.
Raggio del Sole, Viale XXIII Marzo 1848 2A, 33100 Udine
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