WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
The gentle waves of Karinsko More catch the sun’s final rays as we slowly make our way back to our apartment from the beach. This path hugs the shore of the lake, following the snaking shape of Novigrad itself, and guides us through the main thoroughfare of this compact fishing village. Our journey is lengthened by a quick stop for fresh crêpes, served from within the open front room of a local woman; our Croatian leaves a lot to be desired, but through good-natured gesturing and pointing we’re able to establish that, yes: we would like all possible toppings.
On the jetty to our right, a father and son are fishing languidly, rods cast lazily into the still water; to our left, children explode from the sleepy row of houses, barrelling towards the shoreline with towel capes and flip-flopped feet in search of one last swim. Strewn in front of these fishermen’s houses are cracked plastic chairs, occupied by long-standing residents who gather on the pavements to share a bottle of wine or pack of cigarettes.
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Novigrad is characterised by exactly this: a tight-knit community with a deep-rooted appreciation for simplicity. Although just a twenty-minute drive from the fast-paced port city of Zadar, life in Novigrad is lived in slow motion, and encourages (read: forces) visitors to do the same. It doesn’t take long here to slip into the comfortable embrace of a routine: morning walks along the lakefront, coffee at Flash Café, grocery shopping at one of the town’s two minute supermarkets. Afternoons should be spent at the beach, lounging on the rocky shore or paddle-boarding across the bay; sundown sessions at Piccolo Roccia Beach Bar are gospel.
It is unsurprising that seafood and fishing would play such an essential role in Novigrad’s culture. In the soft blue light of the early morning, mussel fishing boats can often be seen sweeping into the bay, their wares celebrated by culinary experts as some of the best in the Adriatic. And although the village has only three restaurants to choose from, Novigrad mussels are a staple on each menu. Understated Konoba Mika offers unparalleled views across the lake and to the mountains beyond, serving their mussels with spaghetti; on the waterfront, fine-dining eatery The Queen prepares their mussels in a fresh tomato sauce, to be enjoyed on their wooden jetty with a glass of fruity Maraština.
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Like much of Croatia, Zadar County is governed by its nature. The desert-like landscape and rugged mountains surrounding Novigrad are home to some of southern Europe’s most underrated canyons and natural parks which lend themselves seamlessly to the adventurous traveller. Zrmanja Canyon offers various kayaking and and white water rafting excursions, whilst the Rijeka Bijela Canyon is known for its dramatic hikes. These are best experienced by boat, departing from Novigrad throughout the day and returning just in time to catch the vibrant skies of early evening.
Those seeking a slower pace should drive just ten minutes north of Novigrad to Posedarje beach, whose squat, stone church is connected to the mainland only by a ramshackle walkway. After an afternoon spent with our toes in the sand, we grab a bottle of Karlovačko beer from nearby Stars Beach Bar; by night, a DJ set transforms the venue into one of the area’s hottest after-dark hangouts.
A stark reminder of Novigrad’s history, the ruins of the Fortica castle loom over the village, glowing an otherworldly pink in the evening light. Now a fairytale-esque vision in clambering ivy and wide-leaf ferns, the crumbling stone of the castle’s remaining walls dates back to the 1300s, and can be reached in just thirty minutes from the waterfront. A well-deserved drink at Café Noškić is a must upon our return back down to reality, before we make our way along to OPG Vlatković: an early-twentieth-century wine cellar disguised by day as a simple fisherman’s home. There is no better way for us to experience Novigrad than this: watching the lights begin to flicker against the surface of the water as local life hums softly around us.
