WORDS & PHOTOS: Abi Prowse
Eighteen months now have passed since I last set foot in Lisbon, but it feels closer to eighteen years. The city that I once so happily called home has never felt more distant to me than it has this past year, for reasons, of course, which are obvious to everyone. I know that I am not alone in this sense of desperate longing for places we once loved; across the world, people are delving into the depths of their camera rolls in search of escapism, reminiscing on that cocktail they had sipped so innocently on a tropical beach, or the tiny, traditional boutique they stumbled across in the shaded streets of a European city.
But Lisbon, as anyone who has visited can avidly attest, has a certain pull, a lingering charm that remains with you long after you’ve left. Whether you just passed by on your way to another destination, or set your roots firmly into its characteristic cobbles on a longer-term basis, Lisbon undoubtedly leaves a mark. Is it the colour, which spills from its tiled houses and into its warm, vibrant people? Is it the proximity to a nature so wild it seems almost to engulf the cities within it? Is it the vastness of the Atlantic, and the salty breeze it blows through the careworn streets?
Likely, it is all of these things, melding together to form the true essence of Lisbon: a fusion of the old and the new, of the luxurious and the understated, of the bold and the humble. So seldom can a capital city strive for development and internationalism whilst retaining its soul, its sense of being. But Lisbon achieves this flawlessly, finding the perfect balance between modernity and tradition, rendering it (unsurprisingly) one of Europe’s most lively, cosmopolitan destinations – a particular hit with the ever-growing digital nomad population.
Each of Lisbon’s neighbourhoods are distinct and diverse, offering a thread of Lisbon’s history and culture which, when woven together, renders the entire city all the more beautiful. These pockets of the city, all to be appreciated both individually and as part of the patchwork of Lisbon, are what renders the Portuguese capital truly unique.
BAIXA + CHIADO
It would be remiss not to begin with the Lisbon neighbourhoods most often classed as the city’s centre. So similar are Baixa and Chiado in their architecture and their character that they are often merged into one – a fact exacerbated by their shared metro station. Elegant, vibrant, and international, the streets of Chiado and Baixa are often populated by awe-struck visitors, hoping to catch glimpses of the endless blue of the Tejo river from between the graceful houses.
Settled beneath the shade of the ruined Carmo convent, boasting a vantage point over the well-organised roofs of Baixa and the iconic Santa Justa lift, is rooftop bar TOPO Chiado. Head here for an afternoon tipple before ducking into the shade of Europe’s oldest bookstore: Livraria Bertrand.
Venture out of Lisbon’s city centre | Costa da Caparica, Lisbon: A Surfer’s Paradise
BAIRRO ALTO
By day, the Bairro Alto is a subdued labyrinth of sleeping houses, its shaded alleyways a welcome relief from the midday sun. But don’t be fooled: a neighbourhood perched atop one of the city’s tallest hills, the Bairro Alto is known primarily for its animated nightlife. As the sun drops below the tall terraced buildings, one-by-one the bars begin to rouse from their slumber, casting thumping music out onto the cobbles, with their squat, scattered tables. During the summer months – particularly in June, which is widely known as Portugal’s party month – expect the narrow streets to be filled to the rafters with high-spirited partygoers, each brandishing a cocktail in a takeaway cup, throbbing collectively beneath the brightly-coloured streamers.
Don’t come to the city without sampling the tacos at Brazilian tapas restaurant A Nossa Casa, or enjoying a live jazz set at Jam Club.
ALCÂNTARA
A Lisbon neighbourhood which will always hold a place in my heart, the traditional area of Alcântara is unlike the city you will see on postcards, or scrolling through glossy Instagram feeds. Arguably, it is much more authentic. Once the home of industry and transportation in Lisbon, Alcântara finds itself nestled beneath the shocking scarlet of the Ponte 25 de Abril, a compact collection of rugged houses and interlinked tram tracks.
The centre of Alcântara reaches out from the bustling Largos do Calvário and do Fontainhas like the roots of a tree; in these neighbouring squares, you can find the local supermarket, a handful of bars and cafés, and an even smaller handful of restaurants. For evening drinks, try upmarket Quotidiano, while the best ‘pasteis de nata’ can be found in breakfast café Pastelaria Tanite.
Discover Alântara with our Lisbon neighbourhood guide here.
MOURARIA
A tiny cluster of winding streets which connects Baixa to the well-loved Alfama, Mouraria is an oasis among the chaos and clatter which comes with Lisbon’s city centre. Mouraria is a vision in clean, crisp cobbles and quiet ‘travessas’, where trees sprout from the tiles and watch over the compact squares. Although small, Mouraria is perhaps the area of Lisbon with the richest history, and takes its name from the city’s Moorish roots. It is here that the mournful, hauntingly beautiful music of ‘fado’ was born, with a number of traditional bars still open today, tucked into unassuming alleyways.
Visit miniscule fado bar Os Amigos da Severa for an undeniably authentic experience, before heading to the aptly-named Illegal Chinese restaurant behind the Largo Severa.
Explore Lisbon neighbourhoods with Viaggio | Through the Winding Streets of Lisbon’s Alfama
ESTRELA + SÃO BENTO
Often overlooked by visitors, Estrela is easily one of the most elegant Lisbon neighbourhoods, with the quasi-tropical Jardim da Estrela at its core. A lemon-yellow basilica overlooks these expertly-manicured gardens, trams clattering past the early-morning strollers enjoying a takeaway coffee from the nearby ‘quiosque’.
A short and somewhat precarious walk down the steep hill lies neighbouring São Bento, home to the imposing grandeur of its eponymous palace. But aside from this striking piece of architecture, São Bento is probably better-known among Lisbon locals for its numerous brunch spots, the quiet, residential roads making the perfect backdrop to your eggs benedict. Try Bowls & Bar for a refreshing smoothie bowl, Hello Kristof for strong coffee and a browse of their magazine collection, and A Sala for convivial board games and community events.
PRÍNCIPE REAL
In-keeping with its name (which translates literally to ‘Royal Prince’), Príncipe Real is undoubtedly one of Lisbon’s most polished neighbourhoods, sitting somewhat paradoxically just above the high-spirited, rough-around-the-edges Bairro Alto. Here, rows of quiet boutique stores sit patiently beneath elegant, terraced houses, most of the neighbourhood encircling the Jardim do Príncipe Real. Inarguably beautiful at any time of day, offering vantage points across the city and down to the sea below, the Príncipe Real is best enjoyed at sundown, as the dazzling tiles catch and reflect the fiery orange of Lisbon’s characteristic sunset.
Evening drinks at Esplanada Café are your first port of call, among the twisted roots of the enormous, fairy-tale-esque tree at the garden’s centre. For dinner, head to the floral outdoor terrace of Zero Zero Pizzeria, before retiring to Lost In for cocktails with a view of the city by night.
Lisbon neighbourhoods from a different perspective | The Places That Made Me: Denise Dahlberg
MARQUÊS DE POMBAL
This area, often considered the business district of Lisbon’s city centre, is frequently overlooked by visitors, or glimpsed simply through the window of an Uber as you travel from one neighbourhood to the next. In fact, Marquês de Pombal boasts its own unique culture, made richer by the presence of so many forward-thinking international companies. Although this neighbourhood may seem to be composed almost entirely of the wide, hectic Avenida da Liberdade, the hills which surround this tree-lined avenue are home to an eclectic collection of bars, restaurants and coffee houses, as well as tiny pockets of greenery.
One of the Lisbon’s best-kept secrets is the compact Jardim do Torel, which offers breathtaking views across the city from its shaded terrace. Nearby, grab a gelato from Mú, or enjoy a craft beer at DeBru. For brunch, Manifest.Lisbon is the city’s most delicious and most Insta-worthy haunt, whilst vibrant Zenith is home to the pancake stack of dreams.
