WORDS & PICTURES: Julia Barber
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Portugal — and particularly Lisbon — has become a hotspot for retirees, digital nomads, slomads, and everything in between. The warm weather, low cost of living, safety, high prevalence of English speakers, and slow-paced lifestyle are often cited as reasons people become attracted to expat life in Portugal. But what is it really like to live in Portugal? Is it what it’s cracked up to be?
To give a little context, I am an experienced traveler throughout Western Europe. I’ve lived in Portugal for two and a half years (in Lisbon and the surrounding areas), and I have traveled throughout Portugal for the last five years. I live with a Portuguese and have a mix of Portuguese and international friends. I also work for a Portuguese company. Because of these experiences, I feel I can describe a variety of aspects of expat life in Portugal. Let’s dive in.
THE WEATHER IN PORTUGAL
Coming from Texas, I didn’t find Portugal to be so warm – especially in the winter. The houses, although beautiful, are typically poorly insulated and damp in the winter, which unfortunately can encourage mould growth. We purchased a couple of oil radiators to keep us warm, but I still find it a bit of a struggle to live without central heating. I’ve got better at it, and I hope that someday we’ll have a more modern home with central heating, which definitely exists in Portugal but is not as common.
The spring and autumn months can be quite rainy, especially in the north. In the Lisbon area, there are certainly many sunny days throughout the year, and I believe this is where the wonderful weather comments come from.
The summer can be delightful or very hot. We live without an air conditioner, which is not uncommon. I think this is one of the reasons for the light, linen-y clothing that seems to be far more prevalent here than in American stores. With the right clothing and a fan, it’s manageable. Near the sea, you can get delightful breezes that help offset the heat of the summer. You can also plan an escape to one of the amazing beaches that exist all along the coast of Portugal.
Considering a move to Portugal? | An Ode to Lisbon, Portugal: Complete Neighbourhood Guide
COST OF LIVING
The discussion about the low-cost life in Portugal is a sore subject for some — and I empathize with this. While many retirees, expats, and digital nomads have earnings from outside of Portugal and find the cost of living low, locals and those who become employed with a Portuguese company will likely not have the same experience.
Minimum wage in Portugal is less than 1000 euros per month, while T1 (one-bedroom) apartments in Lisbon can go for the same price. How is that supposed to add up? We were lucky to have an apartment with an old lease without rent adjustments, and have since moved outside of the city, where the euro can stretch much further.
Costs of day-to-day life tend to be lower than other Western European countries and the United States, but the amount of decrease in the costs does not always match that in the wages. For example: you can get a haircut in Lisbon for half of what you would pay in the United States, but your salary will likely be lower than half of what it would be in the United States. Our electric bill is pretty similar here in Portugal to what mine was back in the States.
HOW SAFE IS LIFE IN PORTUGAL?
Portugal definitely feels like a safe country. I’ve never felt like I’ve been in a dangerous situation, whereas I have definitely felt so back in the United States. Before I moved to Portugal, I worried about gun violence when I would attend a big event or go to the store, or even to school. I have never worried about that in Portugal. That is a true blessing. That being said, crime can happen anywhere, and you should always be careful. In the more touristy areas, you may need to watch your belongings more closely.
LANGUAGE BARRIERS
Compared to many countries where English isn’t the native language, Portugal has many English speakers. This can be a huge help when you first move to Portugal and need to get by, but don’t let this fool you into thinking you don’t “need” Portuguese. Learning Portuguese shows your respect and interest in the country, and will definitely get you farther when you need a favor or want to make local friends. It will help you understand the culture better and make you feel more incorporated.
I should warn you that European Portuguese (as opposed to Brazilian Portuguese and really all Latin-based languages) is in a league of its own. From pronunciation to grammar to slang, it’s a challenge – but it’s also enriching. It’s an expressive and beautiful language, and one definitely worth learning. I realize that not everyone is particularly gifted in learning languages, but even a simple “obrigada” and “bom dia” can go a long way. Don’t be afraid to ask Portuguese people how to say something; they love when others make the effort.
Explore more of Portugal | Aveiro, Portugal: City Guide
DAY-TO-DAY EXPAT LIFE IN PORTUGAL
Like many expats in Portugal, I have a love-hate relationship with the slow-paced lifestyle. I’m on my way to a love-love relationship with the pace of life here, but it takes patience.
As an American millennial, I’m used to 2-day shipping, 24-hour establishments, and deliveries galore! These services are limited here, although are of course more prevalent in larger cities. Where I’m currently living, it’s difficult to get a ride-share service or app-based food delivery. Regardless of where you’re living, people seem to be less in a rush than I’m used to.
However, the slow-paced lifestyle is not always a nuisance. It also means that no one is expecting you to get right back to them. You can eat dinner at a restaurant without being pestered about the check, or asked: “Can I get you anything else?” There is a calmness that comes from the pace of life here that I never experienced in the United States.
Of course, everyone has different experiences, and moving to a new place can be challenging. But the kindness of the people, the beautiful landscape, the delicious food, and the relaxed culture make it difficult not to want to call Portugal home.
Experience expat life in Portugal through Julia’s eyes by following her YouTube channel, Julia Rochelle Abroad.
