WORDS & PICTURES: Alex Wright
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“We plan to turn the big dome into a yoga and wellness centre,” says our host, Simona. Having arrived at VasaRojus – an eco-retreat in the heart of Lithuania’s countryside and our home for the week – Simona proceeds to give us a tour of the place.
The site, which is handily located about 25 miles south of Kaunas and just down the road from the nearest town, Birstonas, is scattered with one big dome, three smaller domes and the piece de resistance: a yurt, which is where we’re staying.
Each abode, depending on its situation, comes with any combination of outdoor chairs, a hammock, a small barbecue, or, for the lucky ones, a hot tub. For those who want the full sauna experience, that’s catered for too, with one in the large wooden building at the back.
The fully furnished yurt, complete with a bathroom and mini kitchen, is perfect for our needs. We can sit on the deck in the sunshine and enjoy the colours of the trees and the river gently flowing by. When night descends, we file inside for the warmth of the log burner which keeps the yurt at a constant toasty temperature.
HOME COMFORTS AND ADVENTURE AT VASAROJUS LITHUANIA
Staying out of season, we have the run of the place, save for a couple of mid-week guests in the adjacent dome. But we aren’t here solely to enjoy the home comforts; we have a week of activities planned, which begin with kayaking down the Verkne. Dropping us 15 kilometres upstream, Simona’s sister Kristina points us in the right direction, and we set off on a tranquil morning’s paddling, drifting past secluded spots and beautiful scenery, with the occasional kingfisher or swan for company.
At points, we have to navigate fallen trees and rapids, where your chosen route could have you spending the next 10 minutes trying to shuffle your way off the riverbed. Stopping for lunch at one of the ubiquitous pontoons along the way, in our own private nature reserve, we quietly reflect on life away from the everyday hustle and bustle.
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R&R IN BIRSTONAS SPA TOWN
On our return, in need of some muscle relief, we head into Birstonas: one of the country’s first spa towns. Checking into the Medical Spa Egles Sanatorija, we book a couple of massages and make the most of the sauna and steam room facilities.
As all the masseurs are booked, I settle for a “massage by machine”. With Soviet-style efficiency, I am directed to my bed by an attendant, where I’m ordered to strip off and lie down. As gentle music is piped into the room, I shut my eyes and try my best to relax as the water jets underneath me fire up. Too late to escape, I lay there and accept my fate.
NINTH FORT AND THE HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL
The next day we head back to Kaunas, where we take in the impressive Ninth Fort. This strategic site overlooking the city shines a revealing light on Lithuania’s dark 20th century history.
A highlight is the imposing Holocaust memorial: a grey mass of rock which, at 32 metres high, towers above you as you approach, its tortured faces looking down upon you. Designed by sculptor Alfonsas Vincentas Ambraziunas, it was built in 1984 to commemorate the victims of the Ninth Fort, where 30,000 Lithuanian Jews from the Kovno Ghetto were executed.
Constructed in the late 19th century, the fort itself was occupied by German troops in World War I before serving as a hard-labour prison in the early 20th century, the exhibitions detailing the brutality of the inmates’ treatment. During World War II, it was turned into a centre for torture and mass killings, its displays honouring the Holocaust victims and the Lithuanians who risked their lives to save them.
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KAUNAS CITY CENTRE
In need of a little light relief, our next port of call is the city centre, where we retire to a traditional Lithuanian hostelry for some borscht and pork schnitzel accompanied by dumplings and sour cream.
After a pleasant few hours wandering the streets, popping into various art galleries and souvenir shops, we make our way up the hill to the newly opened Darius and Girenas Stadium, where Lithuania are taking on group leaders Hungary in a European Championship qualifier. The Hungarian fans have taken over the surrounding bars and square, and are in full voice as they put on an impressive pyrotechnic display. Pouring out onto the streets just after midnight, we make our way back to the yurt across the windy back lanes.
CYCLING THROUGH THE LITHUANIAN COUNTRYSIDE
Returning to more peaceful pursuits, the next day we hire a couple of bikes and head into the countryside. Crossing the main thoroughfare, the A16, we venture through farmland to Nemajunai, where we stop to admire the striking Church of the Apostles Peter and Paul.
Further along the road to Vatiskes, we pass homesteads front yards with cows quietly munching on the grass and a fierce-looking bull (thankfully tethered to a post) as the landscape turns from plains to forests. After an impromptu stop at a village shop for ice cream, we head back home.
Cooling off with a dip in the Verkne on our return, the rest of the afternoon is ours as we sit back on the deck with a couple of beers and the barbecue on the go. I can certainly think of worse places to while away a lazy afternoon.
