WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
Rising majestically through the morning mist, before dropping away in a sigh of lush greenery, the landscape of Maremma is characterised by its hills, which ebb and flow like waves, lapping at the Tuscany-Lazio border. To say that Maremma is untouched would be somewhat of an understatement; not much here seems to have changed since the arrival of the Etruscans thousands of years ago, which only adds to the ethereal magic blanketing this part of central Italy. With a culture so intrinsically defined by both nature and history, Maremma, Tuscany, is rich in tradition and decidedly rustic, its thick stone houses gathered in clusters atop steep hilltops, keeping watch over the vast terrain below.
In-keeping with the Italian norm, each of these picture-perfect hamlets, although similar in architectural style, are microcosms of culture and custom, set apart from their neighbours by intricate details which only render them more charming. These villages seem to appear as if from nowhere, flickering past so quickly that you’d miss them if you blinked, as you drive through dense forests and endless vineyards. You will never have truly understood the phrase ‘winding road’ until you have followed the rural mountain paths of Maremma, guiding you from town to town across a landscape that will leave you gasping in awe.
SORANO
An ancient hilltop city carved from tuff and volcanic stone, Sorano is otherwise known as the ‘Matera of Tuscany’, owing, of course, to its impossibly rustic aesthetic. With crumbling, light stone buildings which seem to emerge from the cliff face itself, Sorano would not look out-of-place within the pages of a fairytale; its surrounding landscape is composed of a plunging carpet of deep greens, the distant rush of a waterfall echoing from the steep rocks. Weaving your way into the city itself, the streets are a stone-clad maze, haphazardly piled one atop the other, connected by precarious sets of uneven stairs.
Sample the best of local cuisine at Ristorante Fidalma: a family-run restaurant offering a hearty Tuscan menu. Stepping through the doorway, you are treated as an old friend – bursts of convivial conversation and clinking wine glasses are the soundtrack to this eatery. Order one of their lovingly-prepared traditional dishes, such as their truffle gnocchi or their wild boar pasta.
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CASCATE DEL MULINO
Upon rounding the corner and finding yourself standing above the striking Cascate del Mulino, you will struggle to believe that this unusual phenomenon is entirely natural. A series of small waterfalls cascade into small, rocky pools, which surround an old stone mill; if this unique setting weren’t enough, the water is sulphuric, with an average temperature of 37.5°C. Particularly spectacular as the sun begins to set, these natural thermal baths are not just the perfect photo opportunity: they also boast healing properties which are beneficial to your health and wellbeing. Whilst the Cascate del Mulino are free to visit, they can become busy during the summer months – but are arguably more magical when the air temperatures begin to drop, and the crowds begin to dissipate.
ORVIETO
Although technically finding itself within the region of Umbria, Orvieto is one of the most peculiar and alluring cities in the area, recognised and celebrated primarily for its remarkable cathedral. Another collection of houses perched atop a steep cliff, Orvieto stands out from among other destinations in the area for its more refined air, a sense of elegance palpable within the wide streets. Its restaurants and cafés are almost achingly iconic, red-chequered tablecloths pockmarking the cobbles; bottles of local wines are stacked into organised clusters within the windows of the botteghe. To reach the city centre, a series of escalators and stairways, chiselled through the deep rock, will lift you from the car park and up into the sun-speckled streets.
The modest, shaded Via del Duomo, framed by a series of small restaurants and boutiques, leads unsuspecting visitors towards the city’s crowning jewel: the Duomo di Orvieto. Somewhat reminiscent of Florence’s renowned Santa Maria del Fiore, this cathedral stands proudly within a vast square, its glinting, gold-plated mosaics a stark contrast to the muted colour palette of buildings which encircle it. Towering gracefully over the rest of the city, Orvieto’s cathedral is one of the most prominent landmarks within the area, its ostentatious beauty setting the city apart from its more understated neighbours.
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BAGNOREGIO
Teetering on the border between Lazio and Umbria, Bagnoregio is a tiny village with an intricate history. Its city centre ripples gently out from the Corso Giuseppe Mazzini: a sleepy street enclosed by obedient rows of cafés and boutiques, such as the charming Valterio Tartufi & Sapori, who specialise in artisan local meats and truffle products. For the most part, Bagnoregio is quiet, its cobblestones echoing with the soft footsteps of locals as they bustle about their lives. At the easternmost edge of the borgo, however, lies the unexpectedly stunning Civita di Bagnoregio. Accessible only by crossing a precarious footbridge, which overhangs a deep, rugged valley, this Etruscan village dates back more than 2500 years, and offers one of Maremma’s most breathtakingly beautiful views. When hit by the sinking afternoon sun, Civita di Bagnoregio begins to glow in a golden fairytale-esque haze.
