WORDS & PICTURES: Johanna Picano
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There is a well-known legend which tells the story of Odysseus’ adventurous life. Numerous places in Italy have a connection to this Greek hero and a piece of the Italian west coast carries his name. The Odysseus Riviera, or, as we say in Italian, la Riviera d’Ulisse, is located in the southern part of the Lazio region: a piece of coastline between Rome and Naples.
Although located in between two very famous Italian cities, this area is still quite unknown to the larger crowd. It has the best of two worlds, mare e monti, as we say in Italian, with the Thyrrenian sea on one side and the Aurunci mountains on the other, almost like a protective defense line along the coast. The largest town is Formia, where I have my Italian roots.
FORMIA
The last piece of the train ride from Rome going south to Formia ducks through an endless number of tunnels. I’ve done this journey countless times, and I still can’t remember how many they are, always thinking the next one will be the last one. However, when the last tunnel finally ends and the gulf where Formia is located appears, I know I’m home.
Formia lies face to face with its sister town Gaeta in a protected gulf along the coast. When stepping off the train, you’re in the heart of the modern town, just a ten minute walk away from Via Vitruvio, Formia’s main shopping street. This street has a different vibe depending on what time you experience it: in the morning, you see ladies on their way back home from the daily fish market, carrying bags with today’s catch, young Italians with large sunglasses sipping cappuccinos on the sidewalk cafés, and parents driving their kids to school. During the afternoon, there are teenagers meeting up outside the shops, couples enjoying an aperitivo in the bars, and old men sitting on benches, talking about life. It may sound like a postcard from Italy, but this is just life as we know it.
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With its 40,000 inhabitants, Formia is a lively and modern town which has kept its southern Italian charm. There are traces of history everywhere: the ancient Romans founded Formia and developed it to become their number-one summer holiday destination, so there are remains of Roman villas, an amphiteatre, and a 1200-square-metre-large aqueduct that you can still visit. The two historical medieval city centers, Castellone and Mola, are charming neighbourhoods where life goes on slowly, on the narrow streets and in the rustic, beautiful buildings.
Castellone is the more worn-out of the two. The walk up to the neighbourhood surrounding the old defensive tower is almost like a journey in time. There is a mysterious yet intriguing atmosphere, and that classical small-town feeling where everybody knows each other – and everyone knows each other’s business! Growing up, I spent all my summers here, in the same apartment where my grandfather grew up, and it sometimes felt like living in a huge living room with the entire neighbourhood.
Mola, is the old fisherman’s neighbourhood along the Riviera d’Ulisse, has today been transformed into a cluster of bars and restaurants, perfect for aperitivo or dinner. What to eat? Fish, of course. The sea is always present in Formia. If you can’t see it, you can feel the breeze. The blue water and sandy beaches invites you to just relax and enjoy, and if you’re looking for something more active, Formia’s largest beach, Vindicio, offers a range of water sports, like wind surfing or kite surfing.
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DAY TRIPS ALONG THE RIVIERA D’ULISSE
Formia is a perfect point of departure for interesting day trips. It’s possible to visit Rome, Naples, Pompeii, and Capri for the day, but I would like to higlight some other, lesser-known gems in the local area.
Gaeta
Facing Formia in the gulf that carries its name, the beautiful town of Gaeta has it all. There is a friendly rivalry between the two towns but they have almost grown together, with only 10 kilometers separating them. Gaeta is smaller and more concentrated, and is well-known for its charming old town and wonderful beaches. The best way to explore is by taking a boat trip along the coast with possibility to take a swim in the cristalline water and then end the day with aperitivo and street food in the heart of the old town.
Sperlonga
Only 20 kilometers north of Formia along the coast lies this white pearl: Sperlonga. Selected as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, or I borghi più belli d’Italia, this splendid town is constructed on a cliff just by the water. With its romantic atmosphere, it’s wonderful both during the day and during the evening, with numerous places for a sunset dinner.
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Ponza
Ponza is a hidden gem out at sea. This heartbreakingly beautiful island is less famous than its jetset sisters Ischia and Capri, but is still well worth a visit. Boats to Ponza leave daily from Formia and the boat ride takes approximately 1.5 hours. It might feel like a long ride at open sea, but all of a sudden, the pastel harbour of Ponza appears, looking like a piece of art.
Ponza is the largest of the six Pontine Islands but is only 8 kilometers long, so can easily be visited in just one day. The best way is to take a boat trip around the island in order to explore the caves and find the best spots for a swim, or rent a Vespa and drive around. The Riviera d’Ulisse really is the essence of la dolce vita.
