WORDS & PICTURES: Melissa Diener
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Lush green hills, soaring waterfalls and a breathtakingly unique flora and fauna: this why the Azores are also called the “Hawaii of Europe”. Along with Madeira, the nine Azorean islands make up one of Portugal’s two autonomous regions. Nestled almost in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, they are only just over two flight hours away from Lisbon. If it’s your first trip to the Azores, you might want to choose São Miguel as your first stop; it’s the largest island and has lots to offer. Here’s why São Miguel is a solo hiker’s dream come true.
TRAILS FOR SOLO HIKERS
First things first: every great hike needs a great trail! And São Miguel has plenty to offer in that department. There are 29 official hiking trails scattered across the island, ranging from easy to difficult. Some of them are circular routes and others linear. As a solo hiker, you might take a liking to the circular routes, as it means you won’t have to backtrack to your starting point on the same trail.
One linear trail you probably don’t want to miss is the hike to Sete Cidades. This scenic trail takes you past the Lagoa Azul and the Lagoa Verde. The two mesmerizing crater lakes, one blue, one green, have been formed over millions of years ago. Legend has it that they differ in colour because of a forbidden love between a blue-eyed shepherd’s boy and a green-eyed princess whose tears formed the two lakes after they were denied to get married. Cheesy, huh? But let’s talk cheese later on!
Romance spoiler: in reality, the green lake gets its colour from the aquatic plants growing under water.
Expert tip: Try to aim for a clear day for all-inland hikes or hikes that lead to a peak or viewpoint. A clear view makes all the difference! Coastal hikes are often fine to do on a gloomier day as fog and clouds don’t linger as much along the coastline.
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MAPS + GETTING AROUND
The trails on São Miguel are well-marked and -maintained. In general, the locals take good care of their island and you will often see them doing some form of work outside during the warmer months. At the starting point of each hike, you’ll often find a detailed map with information in Portuguese and English about the trail. And then there are various online resources to help you pick and choose your ideal hike for the day, of course.
One important thing to note is that you should definitely get your own rental car to be mobile and get to all the good spots around the island. Apart from your accommodation, this is likely going to be your biggest expense, but will be worth every cent! There are only a few buses going to the main villages across the island and you won’t be able to reach most of the nice trails with public transport.
Many of the car rental agencies are conveniently located in the center of Ponta Delgada (it’s often a bit cheaper if you pick them up in the city, rather than the airport). I found Go Rent-a-car to be one of the most affordable ones for smaller vehicles.
Expert tip: Visitazores or the AllTrails App are two great resources to help you plan your hikes. If there is a trail map at the starting point, take a photo just in case, before you venture off.
SAFETY
One huge benefit of solo hiking on São Miguel is the safety aspect. Particularly for female solo hikers, São Miguel and the Azores in general are a very safe destination. There is virtually no crime, wild animals or other safety hazards to be concerned about. The one thing you probably want to be most cautious about are tourists who haven’t quite mastered how to properly drive their rental cars.
Expert tip: Even if you’re in a safe environment, always tell at least one person where you’re going and when you’re expecting to be back if you’re hiking solo. Remember the guy from 127 hours? Be smart. Don’t be that guy. Here’s a great podcast if you want to learn useful tips for the outdoors and hiking solo.
THE WEATHER
The Azores are famous for their unpredictable weather, so be equipped for that “four seasons in one day” type of climate. Due to their geographical location in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, the Azores are exposed to some pretty temperamental weather conditions. From wind and rain to fog and strong UV sunlight, you can expect just about anything for most of the year. Local weather sites such as SpotAzores and Wind Guru are a great source of information if you want a more precise forecast than the generic weather apps can offer.
Don’t worry too much about rainy or gloomy days though. In fact, you should actually hope for one or two of them to fully enjoy one of São Miguel’s natural hot springs. Thanks to the island’s geo-thermal activity, there are numerous places where you can relax those tired legs in a natural hot pool. Here’s where you can find them:
- Ponta da Ferarria – near Sete Cidades
- Caldeira Velha – near Lagoa do Fogo
- Parque Terra Nostra – Furnas
- Poca da Dona Beija – Furnas
Expert tip: Here’s where your rental car comes in handy again. Just throw all your gear (and I really mean just about anything from a bikini and sunscreen to a rain jacket and change of clothes) in the car and you’re well-equipped for a whole day of exploring the great outdoors.
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POWER FOOD
Healthy hikers need power food to fuel them – whether you’re a carnivore, a cheese-lover or a fan of organic fruit and veggies, São Miguel has it all. Not to mention the wide variety of freshly caught seafood, of course. On your hikes, you’ll most definitely cross paths with more cows than people, so it comes as no surprise that the Azores are one of Portugal’s major dairy producers.
São Miguel is also home to Europe’s oldest tea plantation (there’s even a hiking trail leading through it) and it’s the only place in the world that grows pineapples in greenhouses – they’re a bit smaller but also sweeter than regular pineapples. Of course you can also find plenty of restaurants, most being in the capital Ponta Delgada.
I recommend stocking up on local produce at the Mercado da Graça in Ponta Delgada. It’s open every day of the week and offers a big selection of fruit and vegetables, as well as some locally made goodies such as jams, honey and spicy sauces.
Expert tip: If you’re a true foodie, you might want to look out for a local spice called Açaflor at the market. It’s also referred to as “the poor man’s saffron” and once you spot it, you’ll know why: it looks and tastes very similar to saffron, but is of course much cheaper. It’s made from a local flower that’s dried and crushed and can be used for soups, stews or rice dishes. It also makes for a unique souvenir that doesn’t take up much space in your luggage.
READY TO HIT THE TRAILS, SOLO HIKERS?
Are you hooked? Then what are you waiting for? You can visit São Miguel year-round, but spring and summer are of course the more pleasant months to visit for solo hikers. You can also find out more about São Miguel in this local guide, made by @azoresislandgirl.
