WORDS & PICTURES: Hayley Hoggarth
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In just 3 days in Edinburgh, the capital city of Scotland, you will find an exciting combination of comedy, cobbled streets and a treasure trove of luscious green spaces. Walk through the medieval streets of Old Town Edinburgh and feel as though you are stepping straight into the magical world world of Harry Potter; tie up your walking boots and head up the extinct volcano Arthur’s Seat and the surrounding park, just one of 112 in the city; with an infamous Irn Bru in hand, you can enjoy a brilliant selection of arts performances at the Fringe – the largest arts festival in the world.
This exciting Scottish city attracts over 3 million visitors every year to its historic, eclectic streets. And since Edinburgh is fairly petite for a capital city, it makes for a great place to visit for short city-breakers, with most places easily reached on foot. If you’re planning to spend 3 days in Edinburgh, I’ve composed the perfect itinerary for you.
DAY 1
Hiking the Rugged Trails of Arthur’s Seat
Begin your adventure in the Scottish capital by hiking up iconic Arthur’s Seat: an ancient extinct volcano that offers fantastic views over the city. The hill, thought to be named after King Arthur, is the largest of three parts of the volcano. The other two are Calton Hill and Castle Rock, which upon Edinburgh Castle now sits. The ‘seat’ lies to the east of the city centre, and is surrounded by Holyrood Park – a vast green area with an abundance of wildlife, volcanic geology, walking routes, and plenty of vantage points over the city. The climb up to the summit and back takes around two hours, and you are treated to 360-degree views across Edinburgh.
The park where the volcano sits shares its name with Edinburgh’s resident palace, Holyrood, which is where the Royal Family stay when visiting the Scottish capital. The stunning 16th-century palace of the Stuarts is home to many beautiful rooms that you can explore for just £16.50. One of these ornate rooms includes Mary Queen of Scots’ bedroom. You can also explore the grounds, its gardens, and the gothic remains of Holyrood Abbey.
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A Journey up Edinburgh’s Royal Mile
Just across the road from the palace is the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town: the Royal Mile. This wonderfully quaint cobbled street, which connects Holyrood to Edinburgh Castle, has a fantastic selection of attractions, including the Museum of Edinburgh and the superb Real Mary King’s Close. It is also home to a number of stunning historical sights like Tolbooth Kirk. The Royal Mile boasts some of the best eating and drinking spots that Edinburgh has to offer. Head to the Wanderlust Café and Bistro for tasty food and healthy smoothies in a quirky, travel-themed setting.
If you continue along the Royal Mile, you’ll find another striking piece of history: the beautiful St Giles Cathedral. It is free to pay a visit to the cathedral, but donations are welcome. Once inside, you’re treated to stunning architecture, a gorgeous deep-blue ceiling, and a fantastic display of colourful stained-glass windows – one of which celebrates Scotland’s national poet, Robert Burns.
Soak in the hustle and bustle of the Mile at one of its many pubs and bars, before sampling some delicious local food. Head to The Whiski Bar for classics such as Haggis with Neeps and Tatties, finished off with a glass of locally distilled whisky.
DAY 2
History Lessons in Edinburgh Castle
Begin your second day of your 3 days in Edinburgh right at the heart of the city’s history – namely, at Edinburgh Castle. Sitting on top of an extinct volcano, the castle is a dominant feature of the skyline, and can be seen almost anywhere you stand. This striking 11th-century fortress sits at the top of the Royal Mile, and to the west of the city. On your way, you might be lucky enough to pass two ladies holding owls, which for a small fee, you will be able to hold yourself. You’ll honestly feel like a wizard.
Pre-booking entry to the castle is a must, and for just £15.50 you can explore all that this amazing destination has to offer. The cobbled path leads you up and around the parameter where you will find Half Moon Battery: a collection of seven black cannons that used to rain down on enemies as they approached. Another impressive cannon on display at the castle is Mon Meg. This was given to King James II in 1457, and could fire a 150kg gunstone up to an unbelievable two miles. Mon Meg, named after the Belgian town where she was made, sits just outside the small St Margaret’s Chapel. This was once where the Scottish Royal family would worship, and today the building is open to look around. It is even sometimes the backdrop for modern day weddings. The chapel was built in 1130, and is the oldest building in Edinburgh.
Head into the castle itself, and you’ll be able to walk through the magnificent Great Hall, built for King James IV in 1511. The hall once played host to great banquets and state events. It was briefly used as a barracks in the 17th century when Oliver Cromwell took control, and today you can see a mixture of these two worlds, with many weapons adorning the walls. Also on display in the castle are the stunningly beautiful Scottish Crown Jewels. These are aptly located in the Crown Room of the Royal Palace, and feature a crown of gold, silver and semi-precious stones, a sceptre, and sword of state. They are actually the oldest crown jewels in Britain. Separate to the rooms in the castle is a sombre yet poignant memorial to the First and Second World Wars, and to the thousands of Scots who lost their lives in battle.
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Time for a Quick Pit Stop
After soaking in the history of the castle, head down Johnston Terrace and then Granny’s Green Steps onto the famous Grassmarket. Take a minute to stop and look behind you at the dramatic view of the castle as you make your way down the steps: a perfect spot for a photograph. Once a medieval marketplace and a site for public executions, the Grassmarket area is now a vibrant street home to a treasure trove of independent shops and whole host of lively drinking and eating spots to choose from. Enjoy tasty food and drink at the historic The Last Drop whilst getting a feel of the area’s chequered past, or check out The White Hart Inn for a bevvy of live music and acoustic performances. This particular watering hole once hosted Robert Burns, the famous Scottish poet.
Veering away from Grassmarket is probably Edinburgh’s most photographed location: Victoria Street. With its cobbled road bending uphill to reveal a row of brilliant, colourful, terraced shops and restaurants, it’s no wonder this street attracts visitors in their thousands. It’s also known for its sprinkling of magic; as JK Rowling spent her time writing the Harry Potter books in Edinburgh, Victoria Street is said to have been one of the inspirations for Diagon Alley, and you can easily see why. Official Harry Potter merchandise can be found at the street’s very own Diagon House: a shop that has been standing since 1873. For other treats, head to Isle of Skye Candle Company for some sumptuous scents, Victor Scott for traditional Scottish kilts, and The Whisky Shop for locally distilled delights.
A Touch of the Supernatural
From Victoria Street, make your way further into the Old Town of Edinburgh and its collection of medieval, intertwining streets. Head down Candlemaker Row, where you’ll find the famous little statue of Greyfriars Bobby: a Skye Terrier dog famous for spending 14 years guarding the grave of his owner, until he died in 1872. He stands outside the entrance to Greyfriars Kirkyard, which is where he and his owner are buried. Visit the Kirkyard itself to read more about Bobby and take a walk among the tombstones. This may seem an ominous thing to do, but one of the graves belongs to a Thomas Riddell: now famous name amongst Harry Potter fans. Other stones read Moodie, Scrymgeour, Cruikshanks, Potter, and McGonagall.
A little way up from the Kirkyard, along George IV Bridge, you will find The Elephant House: an unassuming little café with a huge visitor count every year. This pint-sized eatery is where JK Rowling sat and wrote the first Harry Potter book – you can imagine, then, its significance within the city. Continue walking and you’ll find yourself back on the Royal Mile, where you can grab some dinner for the evening.
Edinburgh is characterised by a blend off the bewitching medieval Old Town and elegant Georgian New Town. From the Royal Mile, walk down colourful Cockburn Street and over the railway to find yourself in New Town, on Princes Street. It’s here that you’ll be able to stand in awe of Scotts Monument: a stunning gothic structure built in honour of Scottish author Sir Walter Scott. It is the second-largest monument to a writer in the world, and climbing its 287 steps will reward you with amazing views. It’s also on this corner that you might be lucky enough to see the incredible busking trio called The Spinning Blowfish, who combine a drummer, guitarist, and bagpipe player. With this new take on traditional Scottish music serenading you all the way, head to Cask Smugglers for fruity cocktails.
DAY 3
Window Over Edinburgh New Town
Begin your last day of your 3 days in Edinburgh with another climb up the third part of the extinct volcano: Calton Hill. You can start this walk at many different points, and one of these is off Waterloo Place, just past Calton Hill Road. Once at the top, you’ll be in the company of the Nelson Monument, the unfinished (but still impressive) National Monument, and the City Observatory. You’ll see stunning 360-degree views across the entirety of Edinburgh with the Castle to the south-west, Arthur’s Seat to the south-east, and Leith and the sea beyond to the North.
The New Town of Edinburgh offers an exciting mixture of shopping, dining, and architectural splendour. Princes Street and George’s Street are the best places for a spot of retail therapy. You’ll be able to find your favourite high street shops as well as a whole host of eateries to choose from. After enjoying the shops, head towards Princes Street Gardens: a green haven set beneath the castle’s shadow. Here, you will find the wonderful 19th-century Ross Fountain and the quaint Gardener’s Cottage.
Uncover the True Spirit of Edinburgh in Leith
Conclude your Scottish adventure by walking to the waterside town of Leith. Situated in the north of Edinburgh is a thriving port district home to independent shops and long-time locals. On the water also sits the Royal Yacht Britannia: a former royal residence in which a tour allows you to see elaborate state apartments and an onboard Rolls-Royce.
The vibe in Leith shifts away from the historic streets of Edinburgh in favour of an edgier feeling, bringing with it a true sense of community spirit. Enjoy delicious food at The Granary, a delightful bistro sitting on the Shore overlooking the Water of Leith. Later, walk back into Edinburgh along Leith Walk, where you’ll find more fantastic independent shops and restaurants. For your final treat in Scotland, try Bon Bon Gelateria for sumptuous Italian gelato: a perfect way to tie up 3 days in Edinburgh.
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