WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
Despite its vast stretches of jaw-dropping scenery, aggressively beautiful mountain ranges, and deep-rooted Indiginous tradition, many people consider Canada as a mere northerly neighbour to the United States. Although it is true that the two countries do share an exaggeratedly long border, the differences run far deeper than their reputations may let on. Perhaps owing already to its bilingual nature, Canada is a real melting pot of cultures, wearing its multiculturalism as a badge of pride: it is known as being one of the world’s most diverse, progressive nations. And nowhere better emulates this patchwork of modernism than Vancouver, Canada.
In many ways, Vancouver is the perfect depiction of Canadian identity. Wandering the streets of Downtown Vancouver is reminiscent of a cleaner, kinder New York, whose edges are softer and arguably more European; it only takes one glance across the water to remind you of your proximity to nature, as snow-capped mountains frame your vision. This fusion of the futuristic and the natural can be traced throughout Canada’s town and cities, and is reflected also within their people, their culture, and even their politics.
As the third-largest city in the country, you would expect Vancouver, Canada, to be almost London-esque in its manner, with commuters hurrying down wide, busy streets, and tinny headphone music the soundtrack to crowded, otherwise-silent subway journeys. This is not the case. Instead, you are far more likely to step away from a ten-minute bus trip having acquired a new WhatsApp contact and an invitation for coffee the next day. Loneliness is not an option in Vancouver; new friendships buzz beneath the surface of every street, lurking in the most unexpected of places. But in a city which feels more like a collection of towns than a sprawling metrolopis, this is easy to imagine.
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Downtown Vancouver is the Vancouver that you’ll recognise from pictures: a well-organised cluster of blindingly shiny skyscrapers interspersed with smaller, more European-inspired buildings. In fact, this peninsula is home to a number of neighbourhoods, each much more diverse than may initially meet the eye. Gastown is one of the most unique areas of Vancouver, Canada, recognised by its old-fashioned steam clock and the Victorian-style streetlights which line the sidewalks. Although one of the oldest parts of the city, Gastown is quickly living up to its trendy, bohemian reputation; every day, more bars, coffee houses, and boutiques seem to spring from the uncharacteristic cobbles. Its retro charm, however, remains intact.
Bordering Gastown is Yaletown: Vancouver’s ode to the modern world. Within its strict rows of office buildings and apartment blocks, pockets of greenery punctuate the grey. Among these is the David Lam Park, whose impossibly-green lawns overlook the water of False Creek and out towards Fairview. When visiting Yaletown, make sure to stop off at infamous haunt Granville Warehouse to sample the hearty homey-ness which epitomises Canadian cuisine, before spending the night on the dancefloor of Vancouver’s beloved Cambie Bar.
As the name suggests, Granville Island is, well, an island. Tucked into the river which separates Downtown Vancouver from Fairview and Kitsilano, Granville Island is home almost exclusively to its public market. Once an industrial shipping port, the space has since been repurposed to now hold a rich, colourful variety of stalls, restaurants, boutiques, and more, all plastered with swirling street art murals. From Granville Island’s ferry dock, you can take a boat over to a number of other points in the city, even venturing as far as the iconically quirky Science World dome.
For a true taste of local Vancouver life, the laidback neighbourhood of Kitsilano is beloved by residents for its vibrant, friendly, yet unhurried atmosphere. Sadly often overlooked by visitors, Kitsilano feels almost like a small town more than a large borough of such a cosmopolitan city; an afternoon spent at Kitsilano Pool and Beach will reward you with a view across the Burrard Inlet and over towards Bowen Island, with its low, dark trail of mountains.
Wander down West 4th Avenue in search of coffee, and be drawn in by the tangy scent of freshly-ground beans which wafts in from Jitters Caffe; once you’ve had your caffeine fix, stumble next door into the wood-panelled Zulu Records and lose yourself in their infinite collection of vinyls. A testament to Vancouver’s large Asian community, restaurants such as The Eatery should be at the top of your list. A wonderfully quirky fusion of Asian street food styles, this haunt acts as a perfect representation of Canadian life: playful, creative, comforting, and cosmopolitan.
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If you’ve come to Vancouver, Canada, in search of nature, then you won’t have to venture far. Even a short bus ride can deposit you in the midst of breathtaking scenery, with air so crisp that it almost burns your lungs. Keen hikers and trekkers should head towards Deep Cove, in North Vancouver. Whether you’re a seasoned mountaineer, or simply fancy a walk through the forest, then there are a number of different trails to choose from, each offering devastating views over the lakes, with Downtown Vancouver’s futuristic skyline glistening in the background. For an afternoon spent inhaling the fresh sea air, take a bus to the University of British Colombia campus and seek out the wooden staircase leading to Wreck Beach. When you emerge from the dense pines which encase the sand, you’ll be greeted by a wild stretch of beach, framed – of course – by mountains. Oh, and in the true spirit of Canadian liberalism, clothing is optional.
