WORDS & PICTURES: Charlotte Prowse
Anyone who knows me probably feels as though they no longer need to visit Barcelona due to my incessant anecdotes and musings on the city. Without being dramatic, I don’t think a day goes by where I don’t think about it, look at the photos I took, or reminisce on the experiences I had there.
Barcelona is a city which has captured many hearts, not just my own. It is a city saturated with history, evident in every street you pass through, literally. In most, there are two street names: one in Spanish and one in Catalan. The latter was resurrected in an act of defiance following the Franco era, in which the Catalan identity and language were heavily supressed. This struggle for acknowledgment and independence is still evident today – in Barcelona an undercurrent of all things political electrifies the streets. Perhaps it is this sense of individuality which captures the hordes of tourists that descend upon the city, particularly in the summer months. Yet there is a sense of irony in this pilgrimage for the “true” Barcelona experience. As is reflected in much of the graffiti around the city, local residents of Barcelona are reaching a limit when it comes to tourism – and understandably so.
This is why I consider myself so lucky to have lived in this city, and to have had the time to pace myself when it comes to exploring all that Barcelona has to offer. It’s understandable that as someone briefly visiting, you would buy multiple tickets for the more famous of Gaudi’s architectural masterpieces, marvel at the extravagance and intricacies of the Gothic Quarter, or sunbathe on Barceloneta beach with the fake sand covering your toes in a chalk-like residue.
For me, Barcelona is found in the smaller moments, and I can understand how these could be overlooked. It is sitting in the cafes of squares like Plaça de la Mercè and Plaça D’Osca, listening to the sound of the gas deliverers banging on their cans to alert residents of their presence, or sitting with a friendly stranger who will proceed to tell you that the sculpture in front of you represents the female orgasm.
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Art is at the heart of the city, the most celebrated being the work of Gaudi, seen in the quintessential architecture that is both obvious and nuanced, yet which has defined the city’s aesthetic for many years. Structures such as the Sagrada Familia stand bold and defiant, drawing in the crowds. Yet you may find yourself chancing upon the lesser-known aspects of Gaudi’s work whilst strolling around neighbourhoods such as Gràcia; here, you will find Casa Vicens. Barcelona, however, holds much more than Gaudi. Both Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró were also residents, and still have museums in the city which are well worth a visit.
Outside of its art, Barcelona is also unique in its diversity. You can spend the morning admiring the jewel tones of the Mediterranean, before passing the afternoon 548 metres above sea level, exploring the mountains that surround the city. There are multiple viewpoints across the city which demand a visit. Mirador de les Bateries (otherwise known as the “Bunkers”), is a popular spot to takea few drinks and look out at the sprawling city that lies beneath you. But my favourite place to spend a day wandering and admiring the view is the neighbourhood of Montjuic.
Montjuic is home to multiple attractions, including the Botanic Gardens, the National Art Museum of Catalonia, and the 1992 Olympic Stadiums. The Anella Olímpica, with its grand structures and sprawling terraces of fountains and topiary, is a great place to see the vistas – particularly the Olympic Pool, which is open to the public in the summer months.
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A great way to end a day spent in Montjuic is a visit to the Poble Sec district, which lies at the bottom of the hill. The area is home to a street named Carrer de Blai, which is lined with different restaurants selling pintxos (essentially, small tapas on sticks, varying from €1 – €3) and sangria served in glasses the size of your head. This district is not just comprised of one street; it is an ideal place to spend an entire day, and possibly the night, too. Wander in and out of great bars such as Bar la Bota, Lascar 74, La Raposa and Stereo Bar, and if the moment arises, there are some great music venues nearby, including Sala Apolo, Plataforma, This Side Up, Luv Bar & Events and Laut.
Poble Sec is just one of many districts, all of which have something different to offer. To me, Barcelona doesn’t appear as one city, but instead as an amalgamation of multiple districts, kind of like a patchwork quilt. They vary from the antique and tourist-heavy areas such as the Gothic, El Born, and Raval, to the more local, residential areas like Sants and Horta. The festivals thrown during the summer months in each ‘barrio’ are a great way to get to know the area.
Barcelona is a city that lends itself to the curious traveller. It is a city that leaves you wanting to return, knowing that there is so much more to be discovered.
