WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
Early-morning light hits the water, sparkling perpetually in a flurry of shallow waves; somewhere in the distance, a church bell rings out from the vine-clad hills, its song echoing through the valley and ricocheting from the facades of the iconic, coloured houses. The haze of the day’s heat has not yet descended onto the town’s sloping streets, soon to be scattered with handfuls of dazed visitors. It is this atmosphere of perennial summer, this vibrant hum of joy, that characterises Cinque Terre: a collection of five cliffside towns which seem almost encased in their own world, so far removed from reality and from the everyday.
Bookended on one side by the deep blue of the Ligurian Sea, and on the other by steep, rolling hills, Cinque Terre National Park seems to have leapt from the pages of a children’s storybook. Celebrated for its clusters of bright houses, scattered like freckles across the face of the valley, Cinque Terre has long been a favourite holiday destination along Italy’s western coastline. Home to a number of world-famous dishes and specialities – including flavourful, creamy pesto and fresh seafood spaghetti – the area’s reputation as one of the culinary hotspots of northern Italy is well-deserved. Although each appearing merely an extension of the other, Cinque Terre’s five towns are decidedly different, all offering a unique microcosm of culture and tradition.
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RIOMAGGIORE
Often considered to be the first of the five towns which make up Cinque Terre, Riomaggiore is recognised mainly by its iconic bay, the houses tumbling precariously down the hillside and rushing towards the water’s edge. As compact as it is picturesque, the pavements are often peppered with haphazardly-stacked wooden fishing boats, each awaiting their turn among the gentle waves. Follow the rocky path which hugs the cliff face to find the Spiaggia di Riomaggiore: a sheltered beach composed of large, smooth pebbles.
Lively Via Colombo runs through the centre of Riomaggiore, surrounded on either side by a labyrinth of alleyways and stone staircases. Climb up to the San Giovanni Battista church for an uninterrupted view across the rooftops, before following Via Pecunia towards the ancient castle. Here, the tree-lined esplanade makes a perfect setting to watch the sun dip below the horizon.
For those who long for action and adventure, Riomaggiore is linked to Manarola via a series of narrow pathways which cling to the swollen hillsides, guiding you through the lush greenery of the vineyards. Hiking from one town to the other takes roughly one hour, and offers arguably the most authentic, unspoilt view across the national park.
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MANAROLA
The second of Cinque Terre’s five hilltop villages, Manarola is one of the most vibrant towns along this coastline, the wide pavements of its Via Renato Birolli littered with the chairs and tables of local cafes. Wind your way down the slope and towards the glittering sea, whose colour is such a deep blue it seems almost indigo. Here, spend the afternoon splayed across the trail of white rocks which frame the bay; the still, inconceivably clear water is home to a multitude of fish, who dart playfully beneath your feet. For lunch, make sure to head to trattoria La Scogliera, whose checked tablecloths and local wines are impossibly traditional, as if plucked from the set of a movie. The restaurant’s upper terrace is set against a backdrop of coloured houses, the whir of everyday life stirring beneath you, as you sample some of the region’s most celebrated dishes.
As daylight begins to morph into a palette of deep oranges and vibrant pinks, follow the stony path around the headland towards Manarola’s infamously-breathtaking viewpoint. Looking back over your shoulder will grant you a postcard-perfect view of the town, houses clinging to the rock faces like barnacles; ahead of you, the sun sinks beyond the distant hills of Monterosso, a sense of calm and stillness descending over the water.
CORNIGLIA
Set apart from its neighbouring towns by its unusual geography, Corniglia is the only destination within Cinque Terre with no beach. Perched high atop a rugged cliff, what Corniglia lacks in size, it makes up for in astounding views and rustic charm. To access the town centre, make sure to bring a pair of comfortable shoes: a set of 380 stairs await you upon arrival. Because of its somewhat teetering location, Corniglia is the quietest of the five towns, its shady streets sheltered by gently-billowing laundry, strung between the peach-coloured houses. Sample a traditional Genovese focaccia at A’ Càneva: a laid-back restaurant whose squat tables are scattered across a set of bright stone steps.
VERNAZZA
A jumbled kaleidoscope of colour, Vernazza’s houses seem to have gathered at the water’s edge, the village stopping at the foot of the deep green hills which embrace it. The marina forms the heart of this compact town, where a dark, sandy beach slants gently into the sea. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi, with its infinite spattering of bright umbrellas, is the liveliest point of this seafront village, framed by a string of bars and restaurants which overlook the striking bell tower of the Santa Margherita di Antiochia church.
Tread the rocky promenade which juts into the sea; high above, settled into the jagged cliff face, is Ristorante Belforte. This local haunt offers one of the best, most iconic views across the water, as well as boasting a menu packed with delicious, locally-sourced seafood dishes. Come here for sunset, and bask in the gold-plated glow of the sun’s final rays.
