WORDS & PICTURES: Abi Prowse
Framed by the roaring waters of Oslo’s Akerselva river lies Grünerløkka: a neighbourhood renowned for its coffee houses, vintage stores, and late-night lifestyle. Whilst the city centre, a mere 1.5km away, is a vision in sleek skyscrapers and futuristic architecture, Grünerløkka is decidedly humbler; its buildings are low, its pavements cobbled, and its walls splashed with colourful street art. Originally the city’s industrial, working-class district, the neighbourhood has, in recent years, undergone a great gentrification, with many of its factory buildings repurposed. But Grünerløkka has not lost touch with its traditional roots; with community at the heart of many Scandinavian cities, this warren of streets shelters a number of parks and communal areas, inviting locals and visitors to enjoy the laid-back atmosphere which prevails here.
Cars are few and far between in this district, with pastel bicycles spattering the streets instead. Grünerløkka is pedestrian-friendly, with window-gazers slowly wandering the pavements, stopping to admire the many fresh flower stores, whose wares spill out across the cobbles. Its vintage and antique stores are wonderfully chaotic, with an endless array of knick-knacks lining the already-overflowing shelves. Stop for breakfast at one of the area’s many cafés, who pride themselves as much on their soft, doughy cinnamon buns as they do their strong, freshly-brewed coffee. Beloved Norwegian chain Kaffebrenneriet boasts three coffee houses within the Grünerløkka area, and is an ideal location for anyone with a sweet tooth.
On the hunt for traditional Norwegian food? Try Den Glade Gris!
In a neighbourhood so governed by creativity, it seems only fitting that Grünerløkka would also be home to Oslo’s National Academy of the Arts: Norway’s leading art university. Its charmingly-industrial red brick exterior is decorated with bright, unusual sculptures, the building itself a blank canvas for the artistry within. Settled at the top of a tall stairway, which leads down to the roaring waterfall of the Akerselva, the building forms a quiet, concrete courtyard, speckled with students and visitors. A wander through this sheltered square is the perfect gateway into the wilderness and natural beauty which frames the river; from here, you can begin your walk along the rushing torrent, following the curves of the water as you head South, back towards Oslo’s city centre.
Nestled on the Western bank of the Akerselva, against the backdrop of the thundering waterfall, is the Mathallen: an indoor food market boasting a number of stalls and small eateries. Unsurprisingly, this food hall is known mainly for its range of traditional Norwegian foods, which stand proudly alongside the neighbouring Italian, Japanese and Pan-Asian stalls. At weekends, the Mathallen is bustling and lively, its high, industrial ceilings echoing with cheerful conversation and clinking glasses; a number of other bars and restaurants are just a few steps from the building itself, creating a hub for Oslo’s thriving, youthful student community. With interesting and unique events and classes, such as their Sushi and their Street Food Courses, budding foodies will feel right at home among the sharp edges and crisp architecture of the Mathallen.
A mere 5-minute walk down the river from the vibrant collection of bars and restaurants that surround the Mathallen is Ingens gate: a compact, seemingly-nondescript alleyway which is dripping in neon street art. Home to both the sophisticated Ingensteds nightclub and quaint café Elsa Laulas Plass, this riverside nook marries art with industry, acting perhaps as a perfect representation of Grünerløkka itself. Stop to admire the delicate chandelier, which is suspended above the alley, or the politically-charged cartoons which decorate the rough brick walls.
